Suggestions for tie rods

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Threads
224
Messages
6,066
Location
Kansas
Well after 17 years and 170,000 miles I think its time for a new set of tie rod ends. I am curious what everyone else is running or has had experience with. I am debating on just calling and ordering a set of factory ones, or going with something beefier.

My current setup is a MAF leveling kit with OME heavies, 3" front and 2" rear, with 315's. This is my daily driver but also the most likely of my two 80's to see off road usage. In the somewhat distant future I plan on doing a diesel swap to either 4bd1t or 4bt cummins.
 
80 tie rods are pretty damn beefy. I bought Marlin's but I didn't like them over OEM. You could always go GM 1-ton :hillbilly:
 
I'm in the process of going to a Y-link steering setup with GM 1-tons. Check out my posts in this thread for more info

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/782738-go-big-ger-go-home.html

I'm trying to find some more information on this. Maybe you can help. If you run the Y-link that your using, then you are moving the TRE's and the bar that connects them to the front of the axle ? So how do you attach the TRE's to the front side of the hubs ? Then what do you attach the drag link too ? Sorry for all the questions, i'm still searching but so far I haven't run across any comprehensive threads on this.
 
Cruiser Outfitters Japanese 555 Brand.
 
I'm trying to find some more information on this. Maybe you can help. If you run the Y-link that your using, then you are moving the TRE's and the bar that connects them to the front of the axle ? So how do you attach the TRE's to the front side of the hubs ? Then what do you attach the drag link too ? Sorry for all the questions, i'm still searching but so far I haven't run across any comprehensive threads on this.

It's somewhere in that thread, but you also need the steering arm from a RHD truck. Basically identical to the one on the passenger side, but it goes on the driver's side. The two knuckles are then connected up front with the new tie rod. The drag link gets bolted to the tie rod using a TRE with a hole in it, just like in the pics. Hope that helps!
 
If cruiser outfitters had two knuckle rebuild kits in stock I would have already ordered them along with those tie rod ends. ;)

I am waiting on a 60 TRE as well
 
I'm liking the suggestions so far. Now I just need to decide between the 555 and the y-link setup. J cardona - what are the benefits of the y-link setup, other than running those big 1 ton TRE's ? I currently am only sporting 3" lift up front, will these give better articulation ? Will it help clearance issues with a future diesel swap ?
 
J cardona - what are the benefits of the y-link setup, other than running those big 1 ton TRE's ? I currently am only sporting 3" lift up front, will these give better articulation ? Will it help clearance issues with a future diesel swap ?

For me, this has several benefits:

- It puts the tie rod where it should have been from the factory. Having the tie rod in the back is a very funky setup.

- Easier to adjust toe with the weld-in bungs

- Gets rid of the clearance issues when trying to correct caster on lifted trucks, mine is rubbing already.

- Putting the tie rod on the front raises it a bit, so gets it away from rocks

- GM 1-ton TREs are greasable with a zerk fitting, cheaper and stronger than Toyota and available everywhere since they're widely used.

- And for me, I'm not sure what the future holds. Engine swap? Taller lift? Custom 3-link? I don't want to limit myself now. When you go more extreme the tie rod will always be an issue. So I might as well upgrade now since my stock TREs are shot.

- Setting myself up with the steering this way gives me more options down the road, crossover steering, full high-steer, hydro-assist, etc.

- It's cheap; $139 for the arm, $245 for the full Y-link kit with tubing and TREs

Here's a few photos for size comparison. We always think the 80 TREs are beefy, until you put them next to the 1-tons :)

10620822334_df8cb77177_h.jpg


10621071123_96614f9576_h.jpg


The giant 1.5" DOM .25" wall tubing next to the wimpy factory bars

10620820914_4e42902727_h.jpg


And my collection of parts so far

10620795695_b40bf1971e_h.jpg


And the Y-link on another member's 80

attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php
 
Last edited:
On those GM's it's only the head thats bigger. The stems look smaller. That's where I had a problem with mine. Bending the stems.
 
On those GM's it's only the head thats bigger. The stems look smaller. That's where I had a problem with mine. Bending the stems.

You taking about the threaded portion? OEM has a 23mm thread and the 1-tons have a 7/8" thread, which is 22.25mm...
 
^Yes.
 
Just wanted to thank everybody for the ideas. Especially Jcardona, the pictures were a big help. I'm seriously considering doing the 1 ton swap. Looks like I would be out close to $400 by the time it was all said and done, so I will have to check my budget.

All of these ideas have gotten me wanting to do a custom control arm setup to free up the front end a little. :)
 
Just wanted to thank everybody for the ideas. Especially Jcardona, the pictures were a big help. I'm seriously considering doing the 1 ton swap. Looks like I would be out close to $400 by the time it was all said and done, so I will have to check my budget.

All of these ideas have gotten me wanting to do a custom control arm setup to free up the front end a little. :)

That's how the sickness starts! I blame js93cruiser's bad ass rig on 40s!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom