I built the attic rack in the back of my rig out of 3/8" maple plywood and have been thinking about trying to relocate my subs into the attic rack so I can get rid of the annoying box. Has anyone tried this? I currently have two 8"s that I wanted to fit up there or I might try 1 low profile 10". Any thoughts?
Do you have any pics of your attic rack setup? I mounted 6x9’s in the ceiling. Are your two 8’s in one box? I would think you could attach the box to the ceiling but depending on how big it is it might block access to the attic storage. I went with a kicker 8” base tube that works well for me and you can mount it just about anywhere.
Here is my rack, I am hoping a can just cut holes to fit the subs and box them in with some MDF to get the right volume. I am going to try it. Hopefully it wont rattle too much.m and maybe I can still stuff some soft items in their for storage.
Do you have any pics of your attic rack setup? I mounted 6x9’s in the ceiling. Are your two 8’s in one box? I would think you could attach the box to the ceiling but depending on how big it is it might block access to the attic storage. I went with a kicker 8” base tube that works well for me and you can mount it just about anywhere.
Maybe not a 8", but reminded when I ran 2 6" bazooka tubes in a car. You can run those on each side. They had decent bass for what they were and form factor would still give you space in between. Just a random idea.
I’m thinking you could get a pretty slimline setup, I watched my buddy installing a couple thin Fosgate (I think) ~10” that were easily <4” mount depth. Maybe even <3”.
IDK what volume the box needs, I just see stuff going into customer cars.
I’m thinking you could get a pretty slimline setup, I watched my buddy installing a couple thin Fosgate (I think) ~10” that were easily <4” mount depth. Maybe even <3”.
IDK what volume the box needs, I just see stuff going into customer cars.
The required volume should be in the specifications for the respective speaker. Each one is a little different. There is usually a different volume for sealed vs ported enclosures too.
The subs I thought were 8"s are actually 10"s, and I think if I redo my brackets to give me an extra inch I can make it work. I am going to rebuild the shelf with 1/2" ply on the bottom and MDF for the rest, I still need to look up the volume for the subs, but I think I am just going to use 1 of my 2 10" subs. I have been driving around with only one hooked up and it still sounds great.
Update, I decided to start from scratch. I picked up a low profile kicker 12". The specs called for a 2ft sealed box so I built a new box to hold the sub utilizing my rack mounts. I had to use some square tubing to lower it an extra 2" from the old shelf to fit the new box. I was worried it might be to heavy (55lbs) for the mounts but now that it is installed it feels super solid. I did 4 pull ups on the box and I weigh 190. Just to be safe though I am going to run cables from the rear most upper seat belt mount to the box in case it were to detach in a wreck. But all in all I am happy with the fit and the sound is awesome.
You might be able to reduce the size of the box some if you fill it with some polyester stuffing common in fabric stores, if you think your box reduces vision, etc.
It tricks a woofer into thinking it’s in a bigger box, IIRC - I did it when I had big Eclipse woofers & amps/other crap -in my E30, let me still have some trunk space back.
I want to say it slows soundwaves, but honestly I did it because my buddy in the stereo shop said to since he knew I wanted a little trunkspace. IDK the science, full honesty.
I keep telling myself I’m going to glass an enclosure in that rear corner, but since it’s been 18-19yrs now, I doubt I’ll bother