Stuck flange? (1 Viewer)

[bls72bmw]

Starting to replace the hubs and rotors and brakes. BUT I've found I can't get the flange and spindle separated on each side due to a mushroomed spindle.
Or what am I missing?

Thank you!

 

[medtro]

Held together by flange gasket? I would hit the flange with brass bar from the side.

 

[beachedwhale]

easy fix. It looks like you have already got the cone washers out (if not air hammer the bolt and it will pop the washer just make sure to put the nut on flush with the end of the bolt so you dont damage threads ). to get a stuck axle shaft out of the hub flange: get a large impact socket and small 3lb sledge, then hold the socket on the end of the axle and start hammering the axle towards the middle of the car. There is plenty of play for it to push into the flange easily 1/2" to 3/4". pull the whole axle towards you and you will have 1/2" to 3/4" gap behind the flange to use a 3 jaw puller. Then you are done! This is only if your axle end is mushroomed. otherwise just a gasket behind the flange that makes it feel stuck. get a small chisel or putty knife and try to get behind it.

 

[gungriffin]

I believe that you are likely just missing hitting the bolts hard enough with a brass drift or other softer metal. It can take a surprising amount of force.

 

[bls72bmw]

Going to try the impact socket slam and get an 3 jaw puller.
The issue (can't see it well in pics) is the end of the spindle is mushroomed out to way larger than the inside diameter of the flange splines.
The cone shaped washers are out.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

You can put a metal chisel in the groove between the flange and hub and *tap* your way around. Maybe previous repack the person used RTV vs. a gasket.

 

[Ayune]

Is the ‘mushrooming’ you see just the slot for the retaining clip? Axles are made of pretty hard stuff and there’s no mechanism to mushroom them: if you wanted to bang on the axle hard enough to deform it the clip would release and the axle would then recede into the flange.

Try to chisel the flange away from the hub and release the gasket.

 

[beachedwhale]

Going to try the impact socket slam and get an 3 jaw puller.
The issue (can't see it well in pics) is the end of the spindle is mushroomed out to way larger than the inside diameter of the flange splines.
The cone shaped washers are out.

Whatever you do do not buy the 4 piece set of 3 jaw pullers from harbor freight. they are made of chinesium and i screwed up the threads on 2 pullers on this exact same job. go ahead and spring for the hydraulic 3 jaw puller from there if you use HF. makes this job easy as heck.

 

[beachedwhale]

jeez i dont know why i didnt think of this before buying 3 jaw pullers. if you can move the flange out after getting 1/2" to 3/4" you may be able to put something behind the flange to index against and continue hitting the axle through. it would be free if you didnt have the 3 jaw puller.

 

[abuck99]

Maybe its the angle of the photo but it looks to me like the flange grooves have worn down so much that the flange spun a little and is hung up between splines.

 

[Tres Toys]

What abuck99 mentions about worn splines between the hub flange and shaft is a common problem in causing difficulty removing the hub flanges. If the hub flange is loose, but won't slide past the shaft groove, this may be your problem. Spline wear can be caused if the proper thickness C-ring was not used in the groove. The splines on shaft that are outboard of the groove see no wear from the hub flange, so it sometimes creates a step if the flange is rotated to one side. You might want to try rotating the hub flange with respect to the shaft to try and align the worn hub flange splines with the unworn portion of shaft splines. Sometimes it takes a bit of playing around to find the sweet spot. If the flange splines are excessively worn, consider replacing the hub flanges. Also, make sure to use the proper thickness C-ring to minimize axial movement between the splines when reassembling. On the other hand, if the splines on the shaft are damaged 'mushroomed' at the very end, you might try a Dremmel tool with some diamond burrs to carefully remove any damage that is hanging up on the hub flange splines. Best of luck.

 

[bls72bmw]

Thank you everyone for posting. This worked. I have ordered new flanges and shafts for an install. at 323k it is probably time for it all anyhow!
The hammer method worked to get them out. And the old C Clip was definitely way too lose resulting in a mushrooming of the end and a LOT of wear on the splines where the C Clip was installed.
Now toactually get the new ones in.....

 

[gregnash]

Look at my build thread as I just replaced the axles and flanges on my rig a couple weekends ago. Not overly difficult and I took everything apart, put in new seals where applicable, repacked the bearings as they felt good still and went from there. I had AM axles that were making lots of noise and vibration when I hit about 50-55mph on the highway, replacing with OEM and that stuff is now gone.

 

[abuck99]

Thank you everyone for posting. This worked. I have ordered new flanges and shafts for an install. at 323k it is probably time for it all anyhow!
The hammer method worked to get them out. And the old C Clip was definitely way too lose resulting in a mushrooming of the end and a LOT of wear on the splines where the C Clip was installed.
Now toactually get the new ones in.....

When time permits, please post some separate pictures of the removed flange grooves and the axle stub splines.

 

[uHu]

I would examine the spindle bearing and brass washer very carefully on this one. And the hub seal at the back.

 

[gregnash]

I would examine the spindle bearing and brass washer very carefully on this one. And the hub seal at the back.

At this point, if that is the case with the axle that it had mushroomed like that I would likely go through and replaced everything, seals, bearings, washers, cone washers, nuts, all that stuff that is associated with the spindle and axle. Just to be safe.

 

[MS100]

I’m having the same problem but none of the tricks are working. The flange just refuses to separate. CVs and flanges were both replaced in past 25,000 miles. Cone washers came out fine. C clip was tight when removed. Nothing obviously wrong. What am I missing?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I've had luck with putting a pointed chisel on the edge between the flange and hub and TAPPING around the flange. Not smacking, just tapping.

 

[SteveH]

My Cardone HD axle splines were a very tight fit on the drive plate - I had to tap on the drive plate with a hammer. Perhaps this is your problem.

 

[MS100]

My Cardone HD axle splines were a very tight fit on the drive plate - I had to tap on the drive plate with a hammer. Perhaps this is your problem.

These are aftermarket CVS so maybe that’s the problem. I decided to try the other side and I’ve made more progress but it still ain’t coming off.