Stock Land Cruiser PTO shaft information needed. (1 Viewer)

[scrapdaddy]

I tried to find information on mine, having some trouble. I'll keep looking.

Found an old joint and it's the same size as the Moog. 57.3 mm and 20mm cap dia.

 

[love2fly]

The GMB11 - moog 395 or the newer Toyota U joint PN 04371-10011 is very small compared to the older stout 04371-60020 u joint.
The Napa auto parts store here had one of the 395 size and the caps are close 19mm or 20mm but the cross section was about 9.15mm shorter than my 66mm. That's a lot of slugs or US pennies.
Went to Toyota dealer and asked to run the part numbers of 0437-36010, 04371-60010, 043771-60011, and my needed number of 04371-60020 all are suppose to be u joints for a winch shaft. Was told that all the given numbers are now superseded to 04371-36011, nothing else available, no dimensions, nothing. I'm sure other folks who have entered this wacky maze of finding a shaft yoke u joint may of seen this before.
It's crazy, I may be able to temporally reuse the ones I have with a little cleaning but the retaining clips are bent or broken due to rust and age.
I saw a post where maybe some of you guys chimed into but seems like in that post no part numbers were given for the older u joint if found.
Will keep on trying as you scrapdaddy, I also may do the Chinese buy of some that are the correct size and sell them at a fair price here on Mud as it seems a lot of folks are also looking. This PTO winch stuff is kicking my #*@.

One good site close
Universal Joint Cross,U Joints,Cardon Joint - HANGZHOU SHUNKAILI MACHINERY CO., LTD - KOTO Universal Joint Cross



Thanks

 

[love2fly]

Had to give up the U joint search for now as it was holding my build of the winch shaft way behind. So today went on a search for bolts for mounting the flange yoke to the PTO, find some SAE o rings for the bearing caps, and some snap rings. Took all my removed u joint parts and filed off the buggered up areas (glad it is brass) and cleaned and inspected and reinstalled with new o rings that fit as new. O rings were from Napa auto parts PN 727-2607 (10mmx25) and snap rings part 1316. The snaps are not the best but will work, just didn't want to drive all over town looking. Pre-lubed the cups and sanded the shafts on the worst U joint and sealed. Test fitted and all work smoothly. Assembled both yokes and am now ready to move on. Scrapdaddy, I will keep looking for some 20mmx65mm u joints but it sure looks grim.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Looks good! I have the newer joints #395. Can't find any information on the older ones. Your rebuilt joints will last a long time, Good Job!

 

[love2fly]

I was lucky I did not tear up all the outsides of the caps getting them out, just go lucky.
When looking I contacted a few Chinese companies that manufacture U joints on the possibilities of having some made in the larger size 20mmx65mm. Have had a few responses but nothing is the yes we can or any cost. I am kind of a do it if possible type person. I know from the posts I have read guys are spending more on changing the yokes out for ones that can accept u joints that are more readily available, thats fine but some are just junking them to go for the electric winch. I'm now the "save the PTO winch" hugger.

 

[Living in the Past]

I wish I had your luck. Have one PTO winch that is kicking my a$$. Did some trading for this years ago. The splined shaft up front is rusted solid to the collar. The PO destroyed the aluminum pillow block housing removing the winch. A owner before him welded the collar to the winch. This is preventing me from getting the U joint to a press. I have two other cruisers with the drivelines still in place. One a 1960 FJ25 I know is rusted. The other a 61 FJ40 I'm not sure. I was trying to figure a way to get the U joint apart. I'm now thinking of trying to remove the pillow block bearing and remove the shaft out the front.

As for the slugs/pennies as spacers the thickness wouldn't bother me as much as how far out yoke the cap would be. I don't my best to save as much as I can of the U joint from the collar welded to the winch. I wonder if the caps would be the same size on the two. If so you do a cheap rebuild using new caps. The big advantage is the use these see compare to the rest of the drive train is nothing. Doesn't run long enough for parts to over heat and fail like the running gear.

 

[love2fly]

LITP, do you have a few photos of your nightmare?
When I had my old style caps off I only measured how wide they are not how tall. Any one have a 395 newer bearing cap that you could check how wide they are from the open end to top of the cap. I know they are 20mm in diameter. Sounds as you are on track we just need to look at the situation.
Tonight I bought a 5'x 1" wooden round dowel to simulate the shaft run from the PTO end. I will be using the two pillow block standard for the newer year 40 series with the two yoke ends in line. The direct method would work but it would be 2" from the oil pan and 3" from the crack pulley and I would have to shave some steel out of the frame yoke hole under the radiator.
If you can get the pillow block off, aftermarket replacements are abundant in versus types.
Post a few pictures.

 

[Living in the Past]

Here are few pictures of the welds a PO used instead of a shear pin. Need to get the U joint apart to get a Dremel grind out the weld to save the end of the shaft and collar.

Rust splines why the PO destroyed the pillow block to get out. One to the right gives a idea of how the shaft is in the collar. With the U joint apart could probably use a brass punch to break away.

Pictures of shafts including one from the 77 FJ55 which is real close to the 81/82 FJ40 design. Never noticed it only has U joint in the middle and no flange. The housing on the pillow block is steel not aluminum. Broken aluminum pillow block is also the picture.

Some of my PTOs and winches Need to organize my shelves. Would be easier to do if the A/C in the boxes in front of were out of the way and cooling the garage instead.

 

[love2fly]

I agree you do not want to waste a good yoke and bearings if at all possible.
From what I can see in the one picture of the welded yoke (morons at work) and u joint is that the bearing cap is pressed out of the ear but can not see if the opposing bearing cap is removed or still in place. If the other cap is removed you should have no problem supper cleaning the cap out and the ear and putting some assembly lube or equivalent in the ear and on the cap to reinstall it to press it out. I know it easy to say since it's attached to a boat anchor. If you can get it to where the whole assembly will not move and have a helper hole a bucking bar block against the one ear side and with a brass punch drive it back in to where you can maybe get a socket on the outside and go the rest of the way. I have done similar things were the parts was so big and heavy I would use a 2x4 or something against the wall to stabilize it while I tore into it with a 12 lb. hammer.
If the cap is halfway out the other thing is just to try and work it out with some vice grips and penetration oil/lube. I know this may screw up the cap with gouge marks but when I remove mine I had to do this on two caps. After 30-40 year I did not have much of a chose. The good thing is that the brass is soft and can be cleaned up of the burrs and teeth marks with a file and emery cloth. Mine had some pretty nasty gouges but cleaned up good and went back in fine.
the pillow block bearing retainer looks as if it can be re-welded.
Maybe someone else has an idea on how to help save the bearings, but the only thing I can see is brute force and on station help.


Also if you want another winch for your collection found this guy back east. I asked if he had any driveshafts for a PTO and got no reply?

TOYOTA FJ40 PARTING OUT LAND CRUISER

Ah!

 

[Living in the Past]

The brass cup on the other side is trashed. Mainly trying to save the X from the U joint and hopefully use new cups. doesn't show in the picture but the brass cap pushed in still has a large part of the C clip in there. Being over a hundred degrees and working on the ground hasn't helped things. Guess I need to try a smaller bit on my Dremel rather then a cutoff wheel I can get in there. Will be a lot slower going. Just got to love POs who do stupid things like using a stick welder to solve the problem of breaking shear pins. Guess if I get it apart I'll still have a standard size hole for the shear pins as compared to the more common practice of drilling out and using a larger bolt. Just need to call it quits when I get frustrated and inpatient and start destroying things. Within the next couple weeks it should dry out and cool off enough to use cooler setup for the garage. Currently a few minutes in the garage and cloths are soaked with sweat running in my eyes. If it doesn't need to be done now it doesn't happen. Problem is when cools off the list of things to do outside take priority over cruiser stuff.

 

[love2fly]

I found some cut off wheels that work well with the dermal that last longer than the dermal ones. You can get them at harbor freight, like three in the container and a shaft to hold it. They are a bit larger so to get it into that space to get at the welds, you may have to wear them down to the size that will fit in there. As said they last a but longer than the dermal and don't blow off the wheel as fast as them so you may get a bit more done with them.
I completely understand the heat index and body heat issue, I did some work in the garage yesterday afternoon and was only making the a simple PTO shifter lock down plate and was totally engulfed in less than forty minutes of work and I only weight 180 lbs.


1-1/2" Cut-Off Wheels, 3 Pack

 

[peteinjp]

Hey- I have one of those from a P.O. as well! Welded right on there. It was a work truck. I may actually take the worm gear out and see if I can have it chucked up on a lathe .... not sure how I'd hold the face plate.

Just don't have the time or patience as there is so much other stuff cruiser related on the "todo" list.

Pete

 

[Living in the Past]

Just don't have the time or patience as there is so much other stuff cruiser related on the "todo" list.

Pete

I've screwed up a few things over the years and learned patience. Having so much to do and not just cruiser related things that I just put of off to side and wait for the time I have the right mind set to go forward with the idea of saving everything I can. Not sure about pricing and availability in Japan but in the US these are becoming rare and prices are gong thru the roof. My latest driveline setup I purchased earlier this year the guy at the wrecking yard destroyed the winch side of the U joint. It's the later/smaller size U joint so that I can't piece together with a early type so need to save this one if I can or I'll be a piece short of a complete setup.

 

[love2fly]

I first learned patience in the Army, kind of "bit my lip" patience, and law enforcement, oh boy, patience, that I have now.
I think due to the lack of a second shaft end for this project I will slow down and wait for the old machinist to let me know when he is ready to cut some splines or get lucky and find another transmission input shaft that I can modify like the other. I may put a post in the wanted parts ad for a input shaft. Cannot progress without all the parts. I have all the other parts in a box just now waiting for measurements and assembly.
Yes put off those things that kind have a possibility of going south. Funny was just thinking that today I was going to go fly up to the mountains for some stress relief and as soon as I got to the hangar I ran over a drain pipe and broke it, then 15 sounds later I knocked off the temp gauge on the wall and broke that, another ten seconds later I dropped a antenna I had in my hand and broke that all so, I decided not to fly, so yes we learn to know when to quit.

 

[Mudder]

With the U-joint have you tried a tractor supply? Not sure if you said you had. But I know old combines have some weird u joint aizes sizes all over them.

 

[Living in the Past]

Besides taking a break to keep from damaging something it also gives me time to think of a different appoarch to a problem. Have a couple sets of early two sided turn signals. Only one lens was still there. Not in the best shape but finding anything to replace it with has proven fruitless. So didn't want to damage it as something is better then nothing to try and make more. Took a number of years of trying different things but finally thought of something that worked. Today is yard day but after that I have a few new ideas to try if it doesn't get to hot. Next Tuesday it suppose to only be in the high eighties so temperatures are finally headed in the right direction.

 

[love2fly]

I personally have spent more time looking for the older 20mm x 65mm U joints that I want to remember. I have looked at New Holland, John Deere, you name it I have looked. Maybe some old stuff out there that takes the same but they are most likely in the same boat in not finding them.
That 20mm x 65mm just is not available as far as I can tell.
At times I think I should of gone with another electric winch. I now believe if you are planning on a Toyota PTO you better have all the parts or be ready do a lot of leg work.

 

[Living in the Past]

Success, with patience and steady hand I was able to cut the welds and get the collar off the winch. Need to spend some time with a bastard file but did save both. Not sure if it's what left of a shear pin or something else but what ever it is it will need to be drilled to get it out of the winch input shaft. Next need to get to a press so I can get the U-joint. Then drive the shaft out of the collar. Also need to clean up the threads on the other end of the shaft where the PO hammered on it trying to drive the pillow block bearing off the shaft while it was still mounted. Not sure if he removed the C clip first. Then in a month when it's cooler need to tackle the two remaining drivelines/pillow blocks still installed in cruisers.

 

[love2fly]

Well that is good news. I am glad to hear that those parts were savable and will be put back into action one day. Patience.
Do you still have that shaft assy installed in the truck that you took pictures of how it's set up?
If so can you take a picture from the passenger's frame side at a level where I can see how it looks from a side view. I hooked up my wooden dowel shafts today and looks pretty good but not sure on a few areas. If it is removed, don't worry I am sure I can iron out the little things.
Congratulations on one more thing done.

 

[Living in the Past]

It's still on the vehicle. I'll get some more pictures tomorrow.