A few pictures.
Stock Land Cruiser PTO shaft information needed.
- Thread starter love2fly
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- Thread starter
- #142
Perfect - to imitate the original shaft run I needed to see where the shaft's were compared to the frame side lines and heights.
My end yokes are a hair bit larger that the stock yokes (1000 series) but should be fine as your second picture shows the distance between the yokes and frame fairly well.
You can see that I put a few puddles of weld on the front yoke where the shaft pin goes just to put a bit more strength there.
Thank you for the pictures, I'm now 100% on track. I am sure it will help others also who want to take on this task.
Thank you
My end yokes are a hair bit larger that the stock yokes (1000 series) but should be fine as your second picture shows the distance between the yokes and frame fairly well.
You can see that I put a few puddles of weld on the front yoke where the shaft pin goes just to put a bit more strength there.
Thank you for the pictures, I'm now 100% on track. I am sure it will help others also who want to take on this task.
Thank you
- Thread starter
- #144
Almost ready for a test run. Just cut the last shaft and installed today and all needed now is drill the mount holes (4x4 angle) for the hangar bearing and bolt to frame, cut the 1/4" key shaft locks on the four shaft ends, drill the yoke ends set screws stops into the shaft, drill the hangar bearing four collar pins in the shaft, paint, and done. Rolls quiet by hand and smooth.
Should be complete by mid next week. Will post the parts used and pictures after the test is completed.
Picture of alignments and adjustment.
Should be complete by mid next week. Will post the parts used and pictures after the test is completed.
Picture of alignments and adjustment.
Nice work! Look forward to the test. Tell me about what size cable and the length, you plan on using.
- Thread starter
- #146
Complete success.
Okay
so we are at the end of this PTO winch shaft re-manufacture/replacement build.
First, I want to thank all of you for your inputs and pictures that I may of requested for information on the PTO and shaft to help me build this to as in close proximity to stock functioning as possible. I sense this will be a big help to others that may have questions on PTO shaft and parts. I openly would do this again if the parts such as the winch yokes and PTO yokes were readily available like they were 30 or so years ago, but now they are almost sparse to being extinct and they are key fundamentals in making it all work.
I only started off with the winch and a winch yoke and am lucky I had that. For you folks that have all the parts, then this would be a breeze for you to reconstruct, but for the folks that want a PTO winch and are starting from scratch before you buy that winch for that crazy price, make sure you have every little part with that or be ready to do a lot of leg work in looking for the parts.
As for the price, what the folks are asking on some of these PTO winches and assemblies, I am a little in the middle on how I feel. The winch I bought was my first PTO type after owning many electric winches that are absolutely fine and did the job. I like the direct power of the PTO and torque, but it is limited in its max weight pull in what it can pull compared to an 8,000lb or 12,000lb electric winch. Electrical winches work just as well than a PTO type other than the once and awhile power tribulations, and battery thermal runaways but what doesn’t have a problem once and a while. When someone is asking $1,300 -$2,000 for a PTO set up that has no replacement parts from the dealer and other than what you search the world for or have a small stash of parts, you better hope it will last. I would think that they would sell for about $500 just to be rid of it for the said reason. But as for me I wanted to try one and see what it was all about and add a bit more of the Toyota originality also. So what ever the reason I would say if it is not complete in parts, be prepared.
As for the parts used on the shaft, it was a lot of leg work to find the items that would work together and keep that Toyota look using the factory frame mount holes along the inside of the frame. As you can see in the pictures the bearing mounts are just angle iron and the bearing purchased were ideal for this job, and they work well with the loads, and can be replace straightforward.
Not knowing if Toyota used a hollow pipe or solid round steel for the shafts and then welded a spine to the end, but due to the lack of shafts ends I determined it would be best with what I had in mind to go with solid 1” steel shaft.
The solid shafts seemed to be well-matched with a variety of manufactures of yoke ends that are used in the market today so 5’ of 1” shaft was bought at my local steel supply.
The 1” shaft was my first item bought, then I looked at the year Toyota I have and them looked at the original PTO parts semantics noting it had two hangar bearings and two yoke assemblies.
I have the factory holes in the frame for this 1982 year shaft run, and all were usable to mount this entire shaft. After finding a Toyota four bolt PTO yoke assembly for the companion yoke I was ready (did not have to build one from after market parts).
When completed, I use an application of clear spray metal protection on the complete length of the shaft and any part of steel that is not painted. This leaves a waxy hard solid protective film on the surface and will last for long periods of time.
This is mainly for if I have to remove the shaft or bearing, all I need to do is steel wool the ends so the collars will side off much easer and is much better that removing paints due to the close tolerances between the shaft and collars with the build up of the paint. I use the same spray protection inside the PTO spine area and the winch spine area with a mix of grease, and also on both spines.
THE TEST
Started up the truck with the winch disengaged, transfer in neutral, Trans in reverse gear and slowly let the clutch out. At first I thought is was not operating, I could barely hear it spin, but I did not hear any banging or worse so I got out and took s look, she was spinning just as it should and I could now hear it much better from underneath. I have ½ “of sound deadener pad under my mats and trans hump so this is why I could not hear the shaft turning.
All looked fine and no wobble at my shaft spine welds. Ran it for about five minutes, while running I pulled out around all 120” feet (have 120’ on drum marked with yellow paint every twenty feet) of cable and attached it to my Toyota pick up truck for the pull test.
With both vehicles in line of each other I engaged the winch for the test. As the line slack was taken up and that first tighten of the wire rope I felt a big relief as the winch without any hesitation started to pull my pick up towards me. My wife who was in the 45s drivers seat controlling the master shut down just incase while I was outside (is a two person job if possible). After the truck pull was completed my wife said now can we pull that tree stump out now? So being that the tree stump also was in line with the truck I removed the cable and notched the stump for the chain that is around 7-8 inches wide stump and processed the pull. The stump was out of the ground in less than 35 seconds and the roots were deep. Not one snap, crackle, or pop. The PTO winch and shaft is a complete success. A group of pilots plan on doing some tree falling/wood cutting for our low income local’s folks that use wood to heat their homes in the winter months, so this will be one of the winches first big jobs soon, pulling logs.
I hope this post being a bit long but with all the information give from all of you will be a help to a few of you that are planning a replacement build of your shaft and help save you some leg work in building your own shaft assembly, be it a two hangar bearing shaft, single bearing, hope it helps. Thanks again to you guys for the help.
PARTS FOUND FOR THE CREATION OF THE SHAFT
Item A:
Two ends of transmission input 10 spine shafts. Both were cut and welded onto the 1” solid shaft using a homemade jig. Both shaft and spine are the same in diameter so was a perfect match. Use a circler power sander with a 220 grit or more, and lightly sand the spines one at a time very lightly. The center of the input spines are high and that is the only area to be concerned about. Being the trans input spines are a hair bit taller that the original PTO shaft spine, and believe me ONLY take a hair off even it you have to go back ten to twenty times to check the fit to your yoke end. I did two to three light passes on each spine with my grinder /sander, and achieved what I call a nice fit, slides in and out but not to loose but not tight, snug. So hang onto some of those old transmission parts, they come in handy.
Item B:
Four end yokes with 1” center with ¼ “shaft keys shaft pin. Two u-joints, these were referred to as PTO yokes and are in 1000 series type. They match the size of the Toyota yokes reasonably well but the Toyota yokes are still a bit smaller that these.
The yokes are from Neapco Corporation, part number 10-0493; two are required per set with one u-joint.
I used GMB u-joint, Part number 210-017 for one and Spicer 5-170X for the other. Both were found on EBay for a good price. You can do a search on the net for the yokes as they are everywhere, and cheap.
The four shaft keys way will be cut for the ¼ keys when all the fitting it completed. Also the shaft will be drilled for the set screw so I can have a bit of security at both sides of the collar along with some tread lock liquid.
Item C:
Two hangar bearing with 1” centers, and with 1 grease nipple each and two collar set screws per bearing. They are the VXB UCHA205-16 series and can be found any were for a good price. I bought mine at Sears on line for a round $11 each. Easy to replace and they fit in the tight area. I chose these so I could adjust the bearing with ease at the shaft end were it goes into the frame hole to the winch yoke. “Worked nice” I plan on building an elements shield to put around them to help keep out the water and mud as they are not sealed like the Toyota hangar bearing but with some effort will be fine, and can grease them from the top side as needed from a cutout slot I plan on making to both mounts tops.
They take 1” bolts so be ready and get a shorter length bolt if feasible or have some way to cut them down so you do not have to use washers for spacers. The bearing tread shaft is only around 1” deep. Take the bearing with you when shopping for a bolt.
I used four washers on the top of the bearing body between the mount and bearing on the front to shim it to the correct angle (height) to fit the shaft frame opening flawlessly on all sides.
Item D:
4”x4”x1/4” angle iron from scrap yard, will hole a house up so was the easiest way to go and works nice. When setting up your compete shaft assembly and when you find the correct height for the first bearing coming from the PTO end, I used a welding clamps to hold in position while I used a strong bent wire to etch though the back of the screw holes from the inside of the frame, so when I removed the plate it shows the etching of the wire and a place to drill. I used paint on the front around the mount holes and clamped the plate back into its location and let it dry over night and then when removed it had the outlines of the four mount holes and a place to drill. The front plate it you go this way needs to be trimmed on the top so it does not obstruct with the crank belt or any other forward engine part. As said in “C”, I plan on cutting a slot out on the top side of the mount so when mounted I can lube the bearing with little effort.
Drill the 1” bolt mount holes for bearings. I used a 1” drill press hole cutter that worked perfectly.
Item E:
1” steel round shaft 5’ long.
Item F:
Two bolts – just the 1” bolt as describe above.
Now to go fly.
Cheers
Okay
so we are at the end of this PTO winch shaft re-manufacture/replacement build. First, I want to thank all of you for your inputs and pictures that I may of requested for information on the PTO and shaft to help me build this to as in close proximity to stock functioning as possible. I sense this will be a big help to others that may have questions on PTO shaft and parts. I openly would do this again if the parts such as the winch yokes and PTO yokes were readily available like they were 30 or so years ago, but now they are almost sparse to being extinct and they are key fundamentals in making it all work.
I only started off with the winch and a winch yoke and am lucky I had that. For you folks that have all the parts, then this would be a breeze for you to reconstruct, but for the folks that want a PTO winch and are starting from scratch before you buy that winch for that crazy price, make sure you have every little part with that or be ready to do a lot of leg work in looking for the parts.
As for the price, what the folks are asking on some of these PTO winches and assemblies, I am a little in the middle on how I feel. The winch I bought was my first PTO type after owning many electric winches that are absolutely fine and did the job. I like the direct power of the PTO and torque, but it is limited in its max weight pull in what it can pull compared to an 8,000lb or 12,000lb electric winch. Electrical winches work just as well than a PTO type other than the once and awhile power tribulations, and battery thermal runaways but what doesn’t have a problem once and a while. When someone is asking $1,300 -$2,000 for a PTO set up that has no replacement parts from the dealer and other than what you search the world for or have a small stash of parts, you better hope it will last. I would think that they would sell for about $500 just to be rid of it for the said reason. But as for me I wanted to try one and see what it was all about and add a bit more of the Toyota originality also. So what ever the reason I would say if it is not complete in parts, be prepared.
As for the parts used on the shaft, it was a lot of leg work to find the items that would work together and keep that Toyota look using the factory frame mount holes along the inside of the frame. As you can see in the pictures the bearing mounts are just angle iron and the bearing purchased were ideal for this job, and they work well with the loads, and can be replace straightforward.
Not knowing if Toyota used a hollow pipe or solid round steel for the shafts and then welded a spine to the end, but due to the lack of shafts ends I determined it would be best with what I had in mind to go with solid 1” steel shaft.
The solid shafts seemed to be well-matched with a variety of manufactures of yoke ends that are used in the market today so 5’ of 1” shaft was bought at my local steel supply.
The 1” shaft was my first item bought, then I looked at the year Toyota I have and them looked at the original PTO parts semantics noting it had two hangar bearings and two yoke assemblies.
I have the factory holes in the frame for this 1982 year shaft run, and all were usable to mount this entire shaft. After finding a Toyota four bolt PTO yoke assembly for the companion yoke I was ready (did not have to build one from after market parts).
When completed, I use an application of clear spray metal protection on the complete length of the shaft and any part of steel that is not painted. This leaves a waxy hard solid protective film on the surface and will last for long periods of time.
This is mainly for if I have to remove the shaft or bearing, all I need to do is steel wool the ends so the collars will side off much easer and is much better that removing paints due to the close tolerances between the shaft and collars with the build up of the paint. I use the same spray protection inside the PTO spine area and the winch spine area with a mix of grease, and also on both spines.
THE TEST
Started up the truck with the winch disengaged, transfer in neutral, Trans in reverse gear and slowly let the clutch out. At first I thought is was not operating, I could barely hear it spin, but I did not hear any banging or worse so I got out and took s look, she was spinning just as it should and I could now hear it much better from underneath. I have ½ “of sound deadener pad under my mats and trans hump so this is why I could not hear the shaft turning.
All looked fine and no wobble at my shaft spine welds. Ran it for about five minutes, while running I pulled out around all 120” feet (have 120’ on drum marked with yellow paint every twenty feet) of cable and attached it to my Toyota pick up truck for the pull test.
With both vehicles in line of each other I engaged the winch for the test. As the line slack was taken up and that first tighten of the wire rope I felt a big relief as the winch without any hesitation started to pull my pick up towards me. My wife who was in the 45s drivers seat controlling the master shut down just incase while I was outside (is a two person job if possible). After the truck pull was completed my wife said now can we pull that tree stump out now? So being that the tree stump also was in line with the truck I removed the cable and notched the stump for the chain that is around 7-8 inches wide stump and processed the pull. The stump was out of the ground in less than 35 seconds and the roots were deep. Not one snap, crackle, or pop. The PTO winch and shaft is a complete success. A group of pilots plan on doing some tree falling/wood cutting for our low income local’s folks that use wood to heat their homes in the winter months, so this will be one of the winches first big jobs soon, pulling logs.
I hope this post being a bit long but with all the information give from all of you will be a help to a few of you that are planning a replacement build of your shaft and help save you some leg work in building your own shaft assembly, be it a two hangar bearing shaft, single bearing, hope it helps. Thanks again to you guys for the help.
PARTS FOUND FOR THE CREATION OF THE SHAFT
Item A:
Two ends of transmission input 10 spine shafts. Both were cut and welded onto the 1” solid shaft using a homemade jig. Both shaft and spine are the same in diameter so was a perfect match. Use a circler power sander with a 220 grit or more, and lightly sand the spines one at a time very lightly. The center of the input spines are high and that is the only area to be concerned about. Being the trans input spines are a hair bit taller that the original PTO shaft spine, and believe me ONLY take a hair off even it you have to go back ten to twenty times to check the fit to your yoke end. I did two to three light passes on each spine with my grinder /sander, and achieved what I call a nice fit, slides in and out but not to loose but not tight, snug. So hang onto some of those old transmission parts, they come in handy.
Item B:
Four end yokes with 1” center with ¼ “shaft keys shaft pin. Two u-joints, these were referred to as PTO yokes and are in 1000 series type. They match the size of the Toyota yokes reasonably well but the Toyota yokes are still a bit smaller that these.
The yokes are from Neapco Corporation, part number 10-0493; two are required per set with one u-joint.
I used GMB u-joint, Part number 210-017 for one and Spicer 5-170X for the other. Both were found on EBay for a good price. You can do a search on the net for the yokes as they are everywhere, and cheap.
The four shaft keys way will be cut for the ¼ keys when all the fitting it completed. Also the shaft will be drilled for the set screw so I can have a bit of security at both sides of the collar along with some tread lock liquid.
Item C:
Two hangar bearing with 1” centers, and with 1 grease nipple each and two collar set screws per bearing. They are the VXB UCHA205-16 series and can be found any were for a good price. I bought mine at Sears on line for a round $11 each. Easy to replace and they fit in the tight area. I chose these so I could adjust the bearing with ease at the shaft end were it goes into the frame hole to the winch yoke. “Worked nice” I plan on building an elements shield to put around them to help keep out the water and mud as they are not sealed like the Toyota hangar bearing but with some effort will be fine, and can grease them from the top side as needed from a cutout slot I plan on making to both mounts tops.
They take 1” bolts so be ready and get a shorter length bolt if feasible or have some way to cut them down so you do not have to use washers for spacers. The bearing tread shaft is only around 1” deep. Take the bearing with you when shopping for a bolt.
I used four washers on the top of the bearing body between the mount and bearing on the front to shim it to the correct angle (height) to fit the shaft frame opening flawlessly on all sides.
Item D:
4”x4”x1/4” angle iron from scrap yard, will hole a house up so was the easiest way to go and works nice. When setting up your compete shaft assembly and when you find the correct height for the first bearing coming from the PTO end, I used a welding clamps to hold in position while I used a strong bent wire to etch though the back of the screw holes from the inside of the frame, so when I removed the plate it shows the etching of the wire and a place to drill. I used paint on the front around the mount holes and clamped the plate back into its location and let it dry over night and then when removed it had the outlines of the four mount holes and a place to drill. The front plate it you go this way needs to be trimmed on the top so it does not obstruct with the crank belt or any other forward engine part. As said in “C”, I plan on cutting a slot out on the top side of the mount so when mounted I can lube the bearing with little effort.
Drill the 1” bolt mount holes for bearings. I used a 1” drill press hole cutter that worked perfectly.
Item E:
1” steel round shaft 5’ long.
Item F:
Two bolts – just the 1” bolt as describe above.
Now to go fly.
Cheers
Very good job documenting everything. Do you know the size of the rope. Does the 120' fit good on the drum?
Excellent job on both the shaft as well as the documentation! True dedication to the forum there. I think you'll find that the pto can outpull even a large electric winch with a larger shear pin. It will definiltly pull for longer durations without rest. When we go out in our yearly snow camping event we have to pull the first couple of trucks through some mealy dense stuff and the electric winches always overheat. THose guys are always rubbing them down with wads of snow. We have to switch out the front truck- which is a total pain on a single track covered in deep late season snow.
Here the winches themselves commonly go on auction for $300 or less in various states. Right now there is a 2 speed (forward reverse) split case box, shift lever, and shaft for $375 and its been sitting there for a few weeks. The winches themselves are in the $250 range. However if you need to U-joints your looking at $180 or so for a set of 4 from toyota! It all adds up quick!
In the end I think your system is probably better. I like that you can grease the support bearings. The original shaft is hollow and there were 2 thicknesses. The earlier type with a single pillow block were thicker tubing than the later version. Personally I would love to do away with the splined ends as well. But at the least be sure to grease them from time to time as well as they do wear when they get rust and debris in them. The only thing I might do differently is simply to bolt the support bearing directly to the frame- of course requiring some holes that many would not be happy with.....
Pete
Here the winches themselves commonly go on auction for $300 or less in various states. Right now there is a 2 speed (forward reverse) split case box, shift lever, and shaft for $375 and its been sitting there for a few weeks. The winches themselves are in the $250 range. However if you need to U-joints your looking at $180 or so for a set of 4 from toyota! It all adds up quick!
In the end I think your system is probably better. I like that you can grease the support bearings. The original shaft is hollow and there were 2 thicknesses. The earlier type with a single pillow block were thicker tubing than the later version. Personally I would love to do away with the splined ends as well. But at the least be sure to grease them from time to time as well as they do wear when they get rust and debris in them. The only thing I might do differently is simply to bolt the support bearing directly to the frame- of course requiring some holes that many would not be happy with.....
Pete
- Thread starter
- #149
peteinjp good info. I did consider by-passing the mounts and looked into the directly bolting the support bearing to the frame but the design of these bearing made it so easy to line up the shaft that building a mount and using the mount holes was no problem and did help in the end yokes clearance from the frame side. So are the older U-joints still available in Japan? I can not get them here in the states. I notice that my PTO end yoke had a bit of play in the old U-joints, and noticed also that my shaft weld to spline is a hair off with a ever so bit of wobble.
$300 for a winch, is that just for the winch? I do remember some of my electric winch problems, one was overheating. I remember burning one winch motor up while up in Mount Hood Oregon pulling an old Dodge power wagon up the side of the hill with a FJ40, it sizzled. The good thing is at the time I worked for a company (still there today) were we installed Warn winches on trucks and 4x4s so parts were cheap for me.
scrapdaddy, sorry I forgot to add that it is a 5/16" wire rope, the original. Only one small strand of wire in the 120' that is sticking out. I encased the line with a rag while running it back in, we use to do this with our helicopter hoist cables when checking for broken strands, seems as this cable had done well in the last thirty years. When retrieved on the drum it still has room for maybe 50' more.
Now with reference to the running the transmission gears of the split case PTO single speed as I have, as in using 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and revers what are the pros and cons and proper usages. Is it just use revers for take in and 4th for let out.
Oh yeah, that under dash throttle control cable now comes in handy instead of just using it for a poor mans cruise control.
$300 for a winch, is that just for the winch? I do remember some of my electric winch problems, one was overheating. I remember burning one winch motor up while up in Mount Hood Oregon pulling an old Dodge power wagon up the side of the hill with a FJ40, it sizzled. The good thing is at the time I worked for a company (still there today) were we installed Warn winches on trucks and 4x4s so parts were cheap for me.
scrapdaddy, sorry I forgot to add that it is a 5/16" wire rope, the original. Only one small strand of wire in the 120' that is sticking out. I encased the line with a rag while running it back in, we use to do this with our helicopter hoist cables when checking for broken strands, seems as this cable had done well in the last thirty years. When retrieved on the drum it still has room for maybe 50' more.
Now with reference to the running the transmission gears of the split case PTO single speed as I have, as in using 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and revers what are the pros and cons and proper usages. Is it just use revers for take in and 4th for let out.
Oh yeah, that under dash throttle control cable now comes in handy instead of just using it for a poor mans cruise control.
Last edited:
The older larger joints are NLA here. However there are different thickness of snap rings to shim the play in the joints.
37679D RING, HOLE SNAP (FOR WINCH DRIVE SHAFT)
90521-22011 厚さ=1.2, T=1.20 16 $3.24
90521-22012 厚さ=1.25, T=1.25 16 $3.24
90521-22013 厚さ=1.30, T=1.25 16 $3.24
$300 is for just the winch head. Funny someone bought that splitcase setup that I mentionef in the previous post... Anyone here??
Pete
37679D RING, HOLE SNAP (FOR WINCH DRIVE SHAFT)
90521-22011 厚さ=1.2, T=1.20 16 $3.24
90521-22012 厚さ=1.25, T=1.25 16 $3.24
90521-22013 厚さ=1.30, T=1.25 16 $3.24
$300 is for just the winch head. Funny someone bought that splitcase setup that I mentionef in the previous post... Anyone here??
Pete
That is good price for a two direction split PTO with the shifter and shaft. I paid $400 for the same setup but also got the late T/T inspection plate along with the boots and transfer case shift knob.
X2 on greasing the splines. The way the front one is made the spline section is in the middle of the front frame member which makes it tough to even apply heat if the pieces are rusted together.
Next time just buy it or PM me. Curious was it a 81/82 cable shifter or the 83+ push bottom? If you do come across a 40 series five speed for sale please PM me. Could you also sent me a link to where you are finding these items.
I believe in 1st thru 4th the cable is being taken in and reverse is only for releasing cable. The idea being release the drum and free spool out cable and only using reverse while still under tension.
Do you have a picture of the winch from further back showing the driving lights? When like to see how light look added by the winch. OEM fog lights are suppose mount out side the frame which leaves them exposed to debris thrown off the front tires.
- Thread starter
- #152
Bought a U-joint in the 395 part number to look into if I can possibly use it on the rear U-joint that I have now that is a bit worn.
The bearing cap is right diameter of 20mm and as the max from end to cap end cap its around 57.5mm. So with around two US pennies per cap for spacers I maybe able to get it to work as a replacement.
The lights are just driving and fog combinations, 55w bulbs each, and the clear driving lights are pretty bright. The holes in the bumper are for the 3" LED off road lights that are not installed yet. They should be safe in the bumper from being damaged while in the brush. They will be my work lights when off road.
The picture is from our last car/truck show, we attended, we won The Cool Truck award, fun stuff.
The bearing cap is right diameter of 20mm and as the max from end to cap end cap its around 57.5mm. So with around two US pennies per cap for spacers I maybe able to get it to work as a replacement.
The lights are just driving and fog combinations, 55w bulbs each, and the clear driving lights are pretty bright. The holes in the bumper are for the 3" LED off road lights that are not installed yet. They should be safe in the bumper from being damaged while in the brush. They will be my work lights when off road.
The picture is from our last car/truck show, we attended, we won The Cool Truck award, fun stuff.
Curious is it legal to mount red and blue lights in ID? Could get away with amber here but since red and blue are police/fire colors it would be illegal here.
- Thread starter
- #154
Actually it is illegal in all US states to display emergency law enforcement lights (red/blue) on a non law enforcement car/truck.
Each state has a bit of a difference in agency overheads colors used, most fire agencies use red overheads, most EMS red and state police and local enforcement use the LED red/blue combination.
Being a law enforcement officer does not give me the right to use enforcement lights on my personal vehicle, but if one was to use a bit of commonsense and go to your local police or sheriffs office and ask what one should do if they have a SHOW car/truck with such items as overhead police lights the answer usually is just do turn them on if they actually work while driving on city/state roads
and put a sign or something stating FOR SHOW ONLY 
somewhere on the truck/car. Each agency is different with what they may require you to do.
I use a cover on the light bar when going to and from a car/truck show. Most officers would not get to worked up about the lights on a Land Cruiser impersonating local law enforcement, it's if you put them on a car that resembles a law enforcement vehicle, like an old re-sold black and white Crown Vic that the city's and states sell to make a few bucks after use and you drive to a car show looking like your out to get a few speeders, now that would be in the getting close to the illegal part .
As said I just cover the light up and take the cover off when we arrive. If any law enforcement cars are at the show I like to park next to them they get a kick out of it.
Each state has a bit of a difference in agency overheads colors used, most fire agencies use red overheads, most EMS red and state police and local enforcement use the LED red/blue combination.
Being a law enforcement officer does not give me the right to use enforcement lights on my personal vehicle, but if one was to use a bit of commonsense and go to your local police or sheriffs office and ask what one should do if they have a SHOW car/truck with such items as overhead police lights the answer usually is just do turn them on if they actually work while driving on city/state roads
and put a sign or something stating FOR SHOW ONLY somewhere on the truck/car. Each agency is different with what they may require you to do.I use a cover on the light bar when going to and from a car/truck show. Most officers would not get to worked up about the lights on a Land Cruiser impersonating local law enforcement, it's if you put them on a car that resembles a law enforcement vehicle, like an old re-sold black and white Crown Vic that the city's and states sell to make a few bucks after use and you drive to a car show looking like your out to get a few speeders, now that would be in the getting close to the illegal part .
As said I just cover the light up and take the cover off when we arrive. If any law enforcement cars are at the show I like to park next to them they get a kick out of it.
In the Phoenix area so many different law enforcement agencies I'm sure I would get pulled over. All it takes is one Barney Fife type to cause a headache. Our second home where it's pretty rural I doubt the one Deputy Sheriff would have a problem. The one law enforcement officer for the national forest is another matter. He has been know to go around running traffic tickets on the highway when his business in really out in the forest. Few times he has over stepped his boundaries. He is federal law enforcement and see him making a federal case out it.
Sorry, ONE teaser photo of the truck is NOT acceptable.
GIMME MORE!
GIMME MORE!
- Thread starter
- #157
As said I just use a cover over the light to get to and from the event it is so much more easier that way. I always remove all the items when done.
There are a few older US show police cars from the sixties and older that do the same and you would have to be from another planet to think they were still active as law enforcement vehicles, the old red cherry in the middle of the hood type, but once at the events you and do pretty much what you want even turn the lights on for the show and kids. It's all about history and fun. I got most of the 1980s Australian police car/truck history from a man here that retired from the Austrian police force years ago. He loves the truck and I presume the job to.
As for the PTO end u joint that needs replacing I pulled it yesterday and I think I will check into using some washers along with the pennies as it was just a hair off for fit. The bearing were just fine for the ear.
There are a few older US show police cars from the sixties and older that do the same and you would have to be from another planet to think they were still active as law enforcement vehicles, the old red cherry in the middle of the hood type, but once at the events you and do pretty much what you want even turn the lights on for the show and kids. It's all about history and fun. I got most of the 1980s Australian police car/truck history from a man here that retired from the Austrian police force years ago. He loves the truck and I presume the job to.
As for the PTO end u joint that needs replacing I pulled it yesterday and I think I will check into using some washers along with the pennies as it was just a hair off for fit. The bearing were just fine for the ear.
- Thread starter
- #158
Sorry into a heavy workweek. The PTO is working flawlessly as of today it has pulled around four 900 - 1200lb. fallen trees along the road to where they were cut up, all without a any problems. A little slow but works. I know that it is not a lot of weight but it tells me that the complete system is working perfectly. Now for some real back country runs.
cruiserdan, sorry bud how about this one, was cleaned up for a fun show start of summer last year, no winch, and snorkel.
The others are from this year.
She seems to be holding up in the looks department so far and cleans up good, but believe me it gets into the dirt and trees when out playing.
I hope this post will be of a help to someone. Thanks to all of you that posted the information needed to help compelled this build and my friend overseas.
Cheers
cruiserdan, sorry bud how about this one, was cleaned up for a fun show start of summer last year, no winch, and snorkel.
The others are from this year.
She seems to be holding up in the looks department so far and cleans up good, but believe me it gets into the dirt and trees when out playing.
I hope this post will be of a help to someone. Thanks to all of you that posted the information needed to help compelled this build and my friend overseas.
Cheers
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That is totally cool! Thank you for sharing.
There was a question of whether the oem pto shafts were solid steel or pipe, I can tell you they are hollow pipe. In NZ these things are fairly easy to get hold of, I have three or four of them in my garage at the moment along with various PTOs.