I 100% agreed with the above
Still overheating...everything replaced. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter goaticus
- Start date
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Make sure the system is properly bled, and because you didn't mention it I hope you have new hoses. Also you could be running lean which could make the engine run hotter.
Digital temp gauge
Fan clutch replacement / mod
Check Ac condenser
Make sure it's bled (mine has never required special care)
Definitely do the external trans cooler
Try popping the hood (put washers where it mounts so air can flow out the back at low speeds - this can backfire at freeway speed since the cowl is a high pressure area)
I suppose the rad could just suck too, but it seems like it should be adequate if everything is working right.
Fan clutch replacement / mod
Check Ac condenser
Make sure it's bled (mine has never required special care)
Definitely do the external trans cooler
Try popping the hood (put washers where it mounts so air can flow out the back at low speeds - this can backfire at freeway speed since the cowl is a high pressure area)
I suppose the rad could just suck too, but it seems like it should be adequate if everything is working right.
A few points:
1) When functioning properly, the fan clutch is engaged and pulling air on warm days on the highway.
2) As others have said, weatherstrip the radiator, calibrate and change the fluid on the clutch, and make sure the condenser isn’t plugged. You can tell when this is done right, your ac will actually work well.
3) While unlikely, there is another possibility as I found out when my head gasket failed after 8 years of ownership at 210k. I was the second owner, bought with 113k at 7 years old. When we pulled the head, we found that whoever changed the head gasket previously supplemented the gasket with rtv, partially plugging most of the coolant holes. My truck, despite all the cooling upgrades, always ran warm, 190 in the winter, as high as 212-214 on hot days with the ac blasting and climbing hills. After the new head gasket and cleaning the rtv, 178-180 most days, 205f when 105f outside, ac on high, and climbing full throttle to Truckee from Sacramento.
1) When functioning properly, the fan clutch is engaged and pulling air on warm days on the highway.
2) As others have said, weatherstrip the radiator, calibrate and change the fluid on the clutch, and make sure the condenser isn’t plugged. You can tell when this is done right, your ac will actually work well.
3) While unlikely, there is another possibility as I found out when my head gasket failed after 8 years of ownership at 210k. I was the second owner, bought with 113k at 7 years old. When we pulled the head, we found that whoever changed the head gasket previously supplemented the gasket with rtv, partially plugging most of the coolant holes. My truck, despite all the cooling upgrades, always ran warm, 190 in the winter, as high as 212-214 on hot days with the ac blasting and climbing hills. After the new head gasket and cleaning the rtv, 178-180 most days, 205f when 105f outside, ac on high, and climbing full throttle to Truckee from Sacramento.
Perhaps you have checked these:
Thermostat- new OEM does not mean it is good always. Check by placing it in bath of hot water to see if it works per FSM.
Radiator cap - confirm it seats as it should.
Air bleed- did you bleed it on an incline (engine front up). Better yet, a burp kit from Autozone? Did you run the heater on hot when you burped it?
Thermostat- new OEM does not mean it is good always. Check by placing it in bath of hot water to see if it works per FSM.
Radiator cap - confirm it seats as it should.
Air bleed- did you bleed it on an incline (engine front up). Better yet, a burp kit from Autozone? Did you run the heater on hot when you burped it?
Glad this came through, as i am in a similar boat, i have never heard my fan “roar” though, so hope the blue hub from witts end is my fix. I am ablout to drive mine up on an incline to double check that it has no air in it, but i overheat at idle and loaded down on steep hills.
Bambusiero
SILVER Star
Oh yes, it really can be that bad. It was for me, and many others as well.
Specifically, the CSF 2517 all brass is a known poor performer, by many people.
(but oddly, not all, but go ahead and waste your time with it if you want to)
Read all about it here. Or search - all this has been
Known best performers:
TYC 1918 - cheap aluminum / plastic. (www.rockauto.com, $131 shipped when I did it)
OEM - medium priced aluminum / plastic.
Ron Davis - very expensive, top shelf quality, TIG welded aluminum.
And, BTW, regarding the water pump.
There's nothing to it - nothing to "go bad" that wouldn't be glaringly obvious to the casual observer.
It's not a subtle device.
It's just a whirly thing on a shaft, bearing, housing.
If the whirly thing is still there (hasn't corroded down to nothingness), and the bearing still turns smoothly - well, what else is there?
Last edited:
Been there, done that
And solved the problem, I will give a hint "Do not use CSF rad" and mod your blue FC
forum.ih8mud.com
And solved the problem, I will give a hint "Do not use CSF rad" and mod your blue FC
1FZ-FE The Big Overheating Experiment. TESTED SOLVED!!!
Interesting read. My midwest cruiser is moving from Denver to California. I’m concerned when I see 203 temps, and turn off ac. Never really considered CSF as I’m all about OEM but it sounds like it makes good sense. Especially out west. Today in Canyonlands I had temp of 207 and intake of 151...
forum.ih8mud.com
