Hi, I have a 2017 lx570 with 95K miles. I bought it last October, and when I test drove it, it did not do this. I know that this is a body on frame truck, so it will not drive like a car, but I would like to know if this is normal? I do not think it is. I took it back to the dealer, and they said it is normal. The shake happens in the first few seconds of the video. Anytime I hit a large enough bump the steering wheel feels like it is going to shake out of my hand.
Steering wheel shakes going over potholes, is this normal?
- Thread starter Harri051
- Start date
-
- Tags
- lx 570 steering wheel
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Mine does this. Compared to my old GX, it drives like s***, frankly. GX had Dobs MRA and better tires so I chalk it up to that.
just FYI, this is my experience when i first acquired it SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sqod-squad-stupid-question-of-the-day.862977/post-15356537
if it drives well otherwise, i think it's okay
if it drives well otherwise, i think it's okay
- Thread starter
- #5
Completely stock 21 inch wheels with a new set of Michelin defenders
Mine does it too - 123k on the clock.
Reminds me of bump steer in a Jeep.
Figured I'd do new tie rod ends someday, but since nothing has fallen off.....
Reminds me of bump steer in a Jeep.
Figured I'd do new tie rod ends someday, but since nothing has fallen off.....
Can you tell us exactly what Defenders they are? LT type? And what tire pressure you're running?
With 21" tires, the sidewalls are already low profile. I can see if running a stiff sidewall tire, that feedback like this could be likely.
- Thread starter
- #8
Defender ltx m/s 275/50R21/XL 113H
I’m running them at 33psi
gaijin
GOLD Star
I believe those are the LTX M/S2 tires in an ISO-Metric Extra Load size 275/50R21 XL 113H.
FYI, the RCTIP for those tires on your LX570 is 38psi F/R.
I can't say whether it will cure your problem, but it couldn't hurt to run your tires at the correct pressure.
HTH
I had a similar issue, but an alignment fixed it for me. Essentially one front tire was slightly positive camber and one was negative. When the tire hit a significant bump, the front tires would want to roll over to either side and that’s likely what you’re feeling.
Soft squishy tires just amplifies this effect.
I’d get an alignment to make sure you’re in the negative camber range on both tires.
Soft squishy tires just amplifies this effect.
I’d get an alignment to make sure you’re in the negative camber range on both tires.
Last edited:
Bingo! I noticed that you seem to constantly correct the steering and holding it towards the left. Have an alignment done and I don't suggest the dealer go to a shop that has a dedicated alignment guy that knows what their doing.
- Thread starter
- #12
It was out of alignment and it did get an alignment at the dealer. The camber was set to zero. It still does it.
- Thread starter
- #13
What should I ask for? Are there certain specs it should be at? This is all new to me, and I have not lived in the Dallas area for long, so finding that type of place is going to be a challenge.
Dealer alignments usually make the problem worse and are a waste of money.
The zero camber is probably your issue and you have techs who just try to get the car in spec, but don’t know that you need some negative numbers to get the car to be tight on the road.
I would take it to a dedicated alignment shop that has good reviews around your area and tell them what you are experiencing. They’ll tighten things up by likely adding a small amount of negative camber.
Toe might need to be adjusted as well if it’s pulling to the left.
Last edited:
I might add, is your car still stock suspension?
People have 200k+ miles on these rigs with stock suspension and the suspension components are still tighter than a drum, and that’s why I don’t think it’s a worn component.
Even a small change of 0.01 degree in your alignment can make a whole world of difference.
People have 200k+ miles on these rigs with stock suspension and the suspension components are still tighter than a drum, and that’s why I don’t think it’s a worn component.
Even a small change of 0.01 degree in your alignment can make a whole world of difference.
It's hard to diagnose from afar. Tires can have an effect on this even as the tires you got are largely correct. It could be alignment but the way it shakes suggest it's compliance (suspension and tires) related. Unless they got the alignment so wrong. Factory spec is pretty flexible on camber.
When it shakes, does it feel like more than just steering feedback? Do you feel like stability is effected and the whole car is hopping?
Does AVS damper adjustment make any difference? What position are you in normally? Does changing it to sport or comfort change the symptoms?
Have you ever serviced AHC and changed fluids? I'm more suspicious of lost compliance in the AHC system either due to fluid or a prematurely failed accumulator.
I agree with @Zill that these suspensions are incredibly robust and to damage it would not be something subtle. Bushing wear is not usually an issue until 200k miles even in harsh use.
When it shakes, does it feel like more than just steering feedback? Do you feel like stability is effected and the whole car is hopping?
Does AVS damper adjustment make any difference? What position are you in normally? Does changing it to sport or comfort change the symptoms?
Have you ever serviced AHC and changed fluids? I'm more suspicious of lost compliance in the AHC system either due to fluid or a prematurely failed accumulator.
I agree with @Zill that these suspensions are incredibly robust and to damage it would not be something subtle. Bushing wear is not usually an issue until 200k miles even in harsh use.
New shocks at 91k miles? That seems incredibly low for these rigs. Is your car rusty?
If they messed with the AHC system (they had to if they were changing the shocks out), there could be air in the lines or globes which would effect dampening process. However, I would try an alignment first at a competent shop, and see if the simple solution fixes it first.
As Teckis alluded to (far better at the AHC system than I), the AHC system may be your issue, but I would have to imagine you would be noticing some other oddities in your day to day driving experience if there’s air in the lines or the globes are shot.
Don’t the globes usually last 150k miles or so before the nitrogen leaks past the membrane barrier, Teckis?
Last edited:
Good info. Begs the question why they had to change out the shocks at a low 91k miles.
How these things go is that they see weeping shocks. Then apply normal car diagnostics that the shocks needs to be replaced. When the reality with AHC is that weeping shocks is often a sign of accumulator wear/failure that causes extreme hydraulic pressures leading to weeping shocks. This is because the accumulator is the hydraulic "spring" in the system that absorbs road imperfections. This lost spring is also why your car and steering is reacting badly to bumps.
I'd be pretty confident that it's an AHC accumulator prematurely ruptured or failed. The symptoms and history support this. It's rare that they fail so early but it happens. Solution is to buy a whole new set of 4, replace all, and fill/purge the hydraulic system.
Fortunately it's not really too difficult or expensive if you can source the accumulators yourself through Japanese resellers on Ebay. ~$700/set. Labor is 2-4 hrs if the dealer is agreeable to the procedure. You may find that certain dealerships who are clueless may add uncertainty/risk tax to labor which is really unjustified.
For the accumulators, you mean the globes, right?
Accumulator is probably the technical term
