Steering Shaft Deflection Noticed
- Thread starter Delancy
- Start date
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You're an expensive date.
The advice given on steering has already cost me a fortune.
Now, which one?
We usually run the stainless steel units when doing power steering conversions for FJ40's. I'm not sure what the spline and diameter count of a FZJ80 power steering box so you would have to figure that one out. From there you can convert the steering shaft to a traditional DD shaft with a built in slip for frame movement and you're good to go.
I forget the exact part but on FJ40's there is a 3/4" PTO bearing support that works really well on flat surfaces.
It's a lot cheaper if you do it right the first time than doing the traditional Delancy tap dance routine
- Thread starter
- #24
It's a lot cheaper if you do it right the first time than doing the traditional Delancy tap dance routine
Learned that on that last build, in case you didn't notice. : flipoff2:
Short of tapping the PS box, have spared little on this one, so a better analogy would be "industrial dancing" routine, like what you saw at your last rave.
Next question is, during body flexing on frame, is the only necessary " give" in the length of the shaft?
If that doesn't make sense, would a slip yoke type joint be sufficient, or does the body move enough to encounter the shaft at the firewall.
LOL, good one Delancy!! I am at my best in "diversionary" mode. Can't wait to jump in more!
- Thread starter
- #26
After looking at this further, without the pressure of consuming space in shop, can attribute all to the rag joint.
It binds, for whatever reason, and gives the appearance that the shaft is bound, but not really the case. From left to right, it doesn't bind (or whatever) level (or whatever).
All the components look to be new, the only slack in the rag joint. Will remove this weekend and count splines, measure shaft, distance to try to spec a replacement that will eliminate the movement.
It probably does make sense on an OE rig, or any running short of 37" Krawlers on 3.75" BS wheels, to minimize vibration, but it's the least of my vibratory concerns with above combo, and the slack dies transmit to the steering wheel, so want to rectify.
Ported box is on.
Definite improvement, considering that it doesn't leak, very responsive in comparison to previous, and RTC even feels improved.
All left is this joint to contend with.....then hydro.
It binds, for whatever reason, and gives the appearance that the shaft is bound, but not really the case. From left to right, it doesn't bind (or whatever) level (or whatever).
All the components look to be new, the only slack in the rag joint. Will remove this weekend and count splines, measure shaft, distance to try to spec a replacement that will eliminate the movement.
It probably does make sense on an OE rig, or any running short of 37" Krawlers on 3.75" BS wheels, to minimize vibration, but it's the least of my vibratory concerns with above combo, and the slack dies transmit to the steering wheel, so want to rectify.
Ported box is on.
Definite improvement, considering that it doesn't leak, very responsive in comparison to previous, and RTC even feels improved.
All left is this joint to contend with.....then hydro.
Have you determined what size joint you need for the 80 yet?
I have been meaning to do it just have not got around to it yet either
- Thread starter
- #30
Not yet. It's on the "to-do" list, but behind the:
1. Master Cylinder and brake line replacement.
2. Rear quarter panel surgery
3. Front fender surgery, if required
4. Rear subframe surgery
5. Radflo install
After that, tearing into steering with HP and LP line replacements, larger reservoir and mount, different/ relocated cooler, and piston location and lines for hydro, THEN I hope to get my hands of OE steering shaft and figure out what makes sense.
1. Master Cylinder and brake line replacement.
2. Rear quarter panel surgery
3. Front fender surgery, if required
4. Rear subframe surgery
5. Radflo install
After that, tearing into steering with HP and LP line replacements, larger reservoir and mount, different/ relocated cooler, and piston location and lines for hydro, THEN I hope to get my hands of OE steering shaft and figure out what makes sense.
I am going to order that bearing and plate that the other mudder did at the beginning of the thread and install it in firewall to replace the factory steering column rubber bushing, or at least where mine used to be.
I also have so good deflection going on in my drive column plus the loose joint down by the box.
I also have so good deflection going on in my drive column plus the loose joint down by the box.
alia176
SILVER Star
Let us know your ordering details as others will follow suit probably!
And try not to let anyone dig into your new steering gear or it may leak like the last one.....
- Thread starter
- #34
Only person that ever touched the old box, besides me tightening when it leaked, and removing, was Robbie Antonson.
Rear assured, though, when the hydro and shaft goes, it'll be handled professionally......if I could find someone within 500 miles to do it. Hahaha.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Never knew this was an issue. I suppose with the lift and tires and will rear its ugly head. But for the time being I've had no such issue. 
alia176
SILVER Star
Are you rebuilding these PS boxes for us?
- Thread starter
- #37
scotia's 105 Steering Gear Upgrade
Without straying.
Had an issue with one I purchased from scotia and he was more than accommodating getting a replacement out quicker than what I was expecting.
Good guy to work with.
