Steering Rack leak - Rubber bushes changed to aluminum

[Adam R]

I tackled this project a few nights ago and it went pretty well. With my old rubber bushing, and turning the steering wheel back and forth, the rack was moving about 1/8 to 3/16 inch laterally.

The SPF2470K kit was the proper part number for my '99.

I removed the 4 bolts that secure the steering rack. With the bolts removed, there was enough movement that I could rotate the rack and get my air chisel on the rubber bushings on the drivers side. They pushed out pretty easy. The rubber bushing and sleeve came out as one piece.

The circumferential bushing on the passenger side easily came off although access to the bolt heads was minimal.

Getting the new poly bushings in was a little bit of a chore. Before you install the 4 small circular bushings, take a utility knife and cut a small chamfer on the inner face (less than .5mm, both inside and out). This will make assembly much easier. Without the chamfer, the leading edge of the bushings kept getting hung up as the bushings went into their respective holes.

Install both the lower poly bushings and then slide the metal sleeve into the lower bushings from the top. The kit comes with lubricant so everything was well lubed up. Then install the upper poly bushings.

Without the chamber, I used some 5/16 all thread to push the metal sleeve into place and then used it again to push the upper bushing into place.

I then installed the circumferential bushing and torqued all 4 bolts to 74 ft lbs and called it good.

Steering is definitely tighter and there is probably a bit more road feel, but I also might just be paying a little closer attention to it. It is certainly not objectionable.

Total time was around 2 hours, with most of that just trying to get the new hardware installed.

Adam

 

[Kahlua]

In February of 2010, about a year and a half ago, I purchased BFG’s KM2s in a 315x75x16. I followed the mods that John Shotts has done to allow the tires to fit. An immediate problem that I experienced was that the steering became very sloppy. I wrote it off as an acceptable consequence of the lift and tires and got used to it. Over the next few months, I started to have problems with the VSC (Vehicle Skid Control) alarm going off as I went around corners. Before long the VSC was going off as I accelerated or engine braked. When traveling in a straight line, if I punched the gas, I held the steering wheel at 10 O’clock, and if I engine braked, at 2 O’clock to keep the cruiser going straight. About 5 months ago, it progressed to the point where the VSC was starting to intervene, and the antilock brakes would start hitting one wheel or the other to help correct a perceived problem. The cruiser started diving on one side or the other and it became very difficult to maintain control. It scarred the snot out of me. I finally took it to my mechanic to figure out what was wrong with the VSC.

Apparently the VSC was working perfect. My mechanic said that the steering rack was what was failing after he almost killed himself trying to test drive to diagnose the problem(I forgot to mention the 10 O’clock to 2 O’clock steering). They put in a new Rack and all problems were corrected, but my mechanic said that I would see the problems come back very quickly. He said that because of the extreme configuration of the suspension, it was putting too much stress on the rubber Rack bushings, and that he predicted they would fail very quickly. He was correct. Within 4 months the steering regained its slop and the VCS alarm has started to go off again.

I read about the references to the SuperPro Polyurethane Rack Bushings # SPF2470K in the above posts. I found the bushings on eBay from seller: obt_usa.

The new bushings have been installed for a couple of weeks now, and the steering has been absolutely rock solid. I can hammer the gas and then let off completely without upsetting the steering. The real question is, will it last. We will see…

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

In February of 2010, about a year and a half ago, I purchased BFG’s KM2s in a 315x75x16. I followed the mods that John Shotts has done to allow the tires to fit. An immediate problem that I experienced was that the steering became very sloppy. I wrote it off as an acceptable consequence of the lift and tires and got used to it. Over the next few months, I started to have problems with the VSC (Vehicle Skid Control) alarm going off as I went around corners. Before long the VSC was going off as I accelerated or engine braked. When traveling in a straight line, if I punched the gas, I held the steering wheel at 10 O’clock, and if I engine braked, at 2 O’clock to keep the cruiser going straight. About 5 months ago, it progressed to the point where the VSC was starting to intervene, and the antilock brakes would start hitting one wheel or the other to help correct a perceived problem. The cruiser started diving on one side or the other and it became very difficult to maintain control. It scarred the snot out of me. I finally took it to my mechanic to figure out what was wrong with the VSC.

Apparently the VSC was working perfect. My mechanic said that the steering rack was what was failing after he almost killed himself trying to test drive to diagnose the problem(I forgot to mention the 10 O’clock to 2 O’clock steering). They put in a new Rack and all problems were corrected, but my mechanic said that I would see the problems come back very quickly. He said that because of the extreme configuration of the suspension, it was putting too much stress on the rubber Rack bushings, and that he predicted they would fail very quickly. He was correct. Within 4 months the steering regained its slop and the VCS alarm has started to go off again.

I read about the references to the SuperPro Polyurethane Rack Bushings # SPF2470K in the above posts. I found the bushings on eBay from seller: obt_usa.

The new bushings have been installed for a couple of weeks now, and the steering has been absolutely rock solid. I can hammer the gas and then let off completely without upsetting the steering. The real question is, will it last. We will see…

Wow...don't know about the bushings, etc though others here have not experienced the VSC crap. That's scary! So many out there now are running 35's and with no issues short of early rack wear. 4-months though? Unheard of! Something else might be up as well. I had VSC kicking in on turns due to a loose rear upper shock bolt. There might be another culprit on your truck as well.

 

[spressomon]

Kahlua: What is the measurement from the center of your front hub straight up vertically to the lower lip of the fender?

FWIW: I installed the three SuperPro bushings on my new Toyota OEM rack (non-reman but new) apart of its install in January 2010 (20,500 miles on it since) and knock on wood its been fine . FYI: My front lift height has changed over that time but right now its at an effective 20" as measured above.

Dan

 

[Kahlua]

My mechanic mentioned that the VSC was kicking on because the steering wheel was truly going beyond the parameters that would indicate a skid. The rack we put in was a new Toyota OEM rack. The difference could be that I have OME863 springs in the back (I just updated my signature), and I am carrying no additional weight for my daily driving. I selected the OME863s to support the camping gear and boat when we go out to play on weekends and I am ok with the ride quality when empty. My mechanic mentioned that part of the extreme pressures on my suspension was due to the amount of rake that the truck was riding at with the rear springs so tall. This configuration might be why the new rubber bushings failed so fast. This Phoenix summer could also have contributed. At this moment, the problems have all gone away with the installation of the new poly bushings, so I am content to keep everything as it is, if it lasts. If a loose rear upper shock bolt contributed to the problem, I guess it is possible that my mechanic tightened any loose bolts, but he never mentioned it, so I have no idea. At this point, everything is working too awesome for me to believe the bolt is still loose. When I get home, I'll measure the hub to fender heights on front and back.
Thanks!

 

[Northeaster Runner]

Thank you for purchasing from us, and thank you for the positive feedback.
OBT USA Sales team

 

[Kahlua]

Thank you for stocking it. Those bushings have been hard to find.

 

[euclid]

I guess they spun the steering wheel a few times while not connected to the rack. This wound the "clock spring" wires in the steering wheel until it broke, now you have no wires connecting your airbag, horn or cruise control. they will have to pull the steering wheel to replace.

Solid tech bump. Same symptoms, same problem.

Thanks

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Thank you for purchasing from us, and thank you for the positive feedback.
OBT USA Sales team

Well...the 4th rack is REALLY SLOPPY! My mechanic showed me about 1.5 inches of play at the tires at the 9&3 marks. The rack is moving in it's space like crazy. When the truck is setting normal there's still about 3/8" of play.

No leaks right now...but this rack is almost 4-years old. QUESTION:

*Order the bushing kit and pray it doens't leak soon?
*Have a new rack put in but with these new type bushings I can order?

I'm not sure what to do!

Kit is SPF2470K?

 

[Northeaster Runner]

SPF2470K steering Rack & Pinion Polyurethane Bushing kit

We have great experiance with the SPF2470K. You can read Adam's comment in this Forum and you can check the part on eBay and read the feedback from previouse customers.
OBT Sales

 

[re_guderian]

The online parts diagrams don't show it, but the FSM (at least for my MY2000) show that the 4 bolts and 2 nuts used to anchor the PS gear are not re-useable. FYI, and plan ahead when you order the bushing to order some bolts/nuts from your favorite Toyota source as well.

 

[kevin2i]

Thanks! Just joined - and ordered

I noticed 1/2" play in a front wheel when jacked up off the ground - and the car tracks very sloppy on the road. Internet searches, vehicle inspection, etc - led me to suspect the steering rack. After reading this post - Yep, the rack moves a bit - and pulling the inner tie rod end boots to the side, the inner tie rods are very loose (about 60% of the slop is in the inner tie rods).

I just ordered the SP2470K from OUTBACK --- and found the inner tie rod ends for $31 each at Rock Auto. With 160k on the '98 LC - debated whether I should go for the entire rack ($320 rebuilt includes ends) - but for $60 I'll go with the ends - doesn't look like there is any issue with the rack itself.

Curious if there are any other suspension parts prone to wear.

Glad I found this forum - not a lot of LC info out there, and part searching can be challenging -
Kevin.

 

[ckkone]

Curious if there are any other suspension parts prone to wear.

Glad I found this forum - not a lot of LC info out there, and part searching can be challenging -
Kevin.

Your front and read sway bar bushings are most likely toast..take a look and here is what you need to replace them:

Front:
4 x 90948-01003, CUSHION, FRONT STABILIZER,(front cushions for stabilizer link)
4 x 90119-08B50, BOLT, W/WASHER,(D Bushing Bolts)
2 x 90119-10765, BOLT, W/WASHER, (bolt for bottom of stabilizer link)
2 x 94184-61001, NUT, LOCK, (nut for top of stabilizer link)
2 x 48815-60111, BUSH, STABILIZER, (D Bushings)
2 x 48820-60032, LINK ASSY, FR STABIL, (Front Stabilizer Link, comes with bushing)

Rear:
4 x 90119-08834, BOLT, W/WASHER,(D Bushing Bolts)
2 x 90179-08062, NUT, (nut for top of stabilizer link)
2 x 94185-61000, NUT,LOCK,(nut for bottom of stabilizer link)
2 x 90385-11021, BUSH,(Bush for stabilizer link)
2 x 48802-60090, LINK SUB-ASSY, STABI,(Rear Stabilizer Link, does not come with bushing)
2 x 48815-26250, BUSH, STABILIZER,(D Bushings)
4 x 48817-30010, CUSHING, STABILIZER,(cushions for stabilizer link)

 

[spressomon]

Pull the rear upper and lower control/link arms and inspect the rubber bushings...they're most likely toast too. Worn bushings will effectively induce a bit of rear steering...most noticeable under hard acceleration but also contributes to highway speed wander.

 

[kevin2i]

Steering Rack -
Since I've expanded the project (brakes, CV, wheel bearings, possibly control arm bushings/bj) I am back to 'undecided' about yanking out the steering rack.

Seems like no one likes doing this. I haven't found any details or write-up on it. But if I have everything out of the way, looks like it will slide right out (might have to remove radiator/shrowd for extra clearance). I did have about 1/4 cup of oil in the tie rod boot, but after 14 years and no leaking or noticeable power steering fluid loss - not sure if that is a problem, unless the inner tie rods need grease and not light lubricant. More research . . .

Chris and Spressomon - Thanks!
Already did a search for the sway bar bushings - actually looking for poly, will have to shop by size or stay with rubber. Numbers for 'cushions' needed, couldn't find those!

Amazing the CV joints are cheaper to replace ($50 ea) than repack and new boots (if I consider the cost of new towels due to grease stains ).

 

[re_guderian]

...Amazing the CV joints are cheaper to replace ($50 ea) than repack and new boots (if I consider the cost of new towels due to grease stains ).

Not many have been happy with aftermarket CV's, and end up replacing with OEM shortly after they put in the aftermarkets. I rebooted my OEM's at 170K.

 

[spressomon]

The steering rack is the toughest job on a 100-Series. I thought about doing mine but without a lift you're asking for pain and suffering. And even if you do have a lift...well even the pros hate doing this one.

IMO I'd go with new rather than reman on the rack. Not that much cost difference but in light of the sheer amount of labor $ its just not worth the risk...YMMV

 

[ckkone]

Already did a search for the sway bar bushings - actually looking for poly, will have to shop by size or stay with rubber. .

Whiteline and Super Pro offer some of the sway bar bushings in poly. Not sure they will last longer or be any better than oem rubber...

Whiteline Performance Suspension for Toyota LANDCRUISER FZJ100, HDJ100, UZJ100 IFS (3/98-10/07)

Find SuperPro Parts for My Vehicle

 

[kevin2i]

Not many have been happy with aftermarket CV's, and end up replacing with OEM shortly after they put in the aftermarkets. I rebooted my OEM's at 170K.

The $50 for a new one (A1) is surprising - maybe there is a reason they are 'cheap' . . .

Will stick with rubber stabilizer bushings - and the rest of Chris's list.

I did post a few pages from the FSM on another thread - I still don't see *why* the steering rack is difficult. But I'm beginning to believe you guys and will refrain from taking this on as a challenge. If anyone has done this, curious what makes it a pain.

On first glance it seems simple - since I'm pulling off the hub, removing the rack mounts and tie rod ends - rack removal looked like a few more steps (remove hose and steering link) - but obviously there is more to it . . .

 

[Adam R]

Rubber vs. Poly.

Rubber squishes and compresses easily.

Poly not so much.

If the rack moves, so do your tires. I want the rack to stay firmly in place so it's poly for me. There is absolutely no reason for me to ever put the rubber bushing back on.

Just my .02.

Adam