Steering Rack leak - Rubber bushes changed to aluminum

[re_guderian]

Rubber vs. Poly.

Rubber squishes and compresses easily.

Poly not so much.

If the rack moves, so do your tires. I want the rack to stay firmly in place so it's poly for me. There is absolutely no reason for me to ever put the rubber bushing back on.

Just my .02.

Adam

Not to pick a fight since I'll prolly go poly someday too, but it works the other way around as well. Road imperfections can move your tires, which move the rack, which move the steering wheel. Minimized by rubber...

 

[Kahlua]

In February of 2010, about a year and a half ago, I purchased BFG’s KM2s in a 315x75x16. I followed the mods that John Shotts has done to allow the tires to fit. An immediate problem that I experienced was that the steering became very sloppy. I wrote it off as an acceptable consequence of the lift and tires and got used to it. Over the next few months, I started to have problems with the VSC (Vehicle Skid Control) alarm going off as I went around corners. Before long the VSC was going off as I accelerated or engine braked. When traveling in a straight line, if I punched the gas, I held the steering wheel at 10 O’clock, and if I engine braked, at 2 O’clock to keep the cruiser going straight. About 5 months ago, it progressed to the point where the VSC was starting to intervene, and the antilock brakes would start hitting one wheel or the other to help correct a perceived problem. The cruiser started diving on one side or the other and it became very difficult to maintain control. It scarred the snot out of me. I finally took it to my mechanic to figure out what was wrong with the VSC.

Apparently the VSC was working perfect. My mechanic said that the steering rack was what was failing after he almost killed himself trying to test drive to diagnose the problem(I forgot to mention the 10 O’clock to 2 O’clock steering). They put in a new Rack and all problems were corrected, but my mechanic said that I would see the problems come back very quickly. He said that because of the extreme configuration of the suspension, it was putting too much stress on the rubber Rack bushings, and that he predicted they would fail very quickly. He was correct. Within 4 months the steering regained its slop and the VCS alarm has started to go off again.

I read about the references to the SuperPro Polyurethane Rack Bushings # SPF2470K in the above posts. I found the bushings on eBay from seller: obt_usa.

The new bushings have been installed for a couple of weeks now, and the steering has been absolutely rock solid. I can hammer the gas and then let off completely without upsetting the steering. The real question is, will it last. We will see…

It has been six months and there has been no deteriation of the stability of the ride. The SuperPro Polyurethane Rack Bushings # SPF2470K have been awesome!!!

 

[kevin2i]

For a 1998, the rear sway bar bushings are 24mm:
48815-60140 (2 required).

The part number below is for a 23mm bushing.

Anybody need a 23mm set? - almost free (just pay shipping).

Kevin.

Your front and read sway bar bushings are most likely toast..take a look and here is what you need to replace them:

Front:
4 x 90948-01003, CUSHION, FRONT STABILIZER,(front cushions for stabilizer link)
4 x 90119-08B50, BOLT, W/WASHER,(D Bushing Bolts)
2 x 90119-10765, BOLT, W/WASHER, (bolt for bottom of stabilizer link)
2 x 94184-61001, NUT, LOCK, (nut for top of stabilizer link)
2 x 48815-60111, BUSH, STABILIZER, (D Bushings)
2 x 48820-60032, LINK ASSY, FR STABIL, (Front Stabilizer Link, comes with bushing)

Rear:
4 x 90119-08834, BOLT, W/WASHER,(D Bushing Bolts)
2 x 90179-08062, NUT, (nut for top of stabilizer link)
2 x 94185-61000, NUT,LOCK,(nut for bottom of stabilizer link)
2 x 90385-11021, BUSH,(Bush for stabilizer link)
2 x 48802-60090, LINK SUB-ASSY, STABI,(Rear Stabilizer Link, does not come with bushing)
2 x 48815-26250, BUSH, STABILIZER,(D Bushings)
4 x 48817-30010, CUSHING, STABILIZER,(cushions for stabilizer link)

 

[Mxndrnks]

OK, I have some of the poly bushings coming in. In reading about replacing them, I am seeing conflicting information. Some have said you need to pull the rack to replace the bushings. Others have indicated they haven't had to pull the rack to replace the bushings. Has there been an updated consensus on the subject? I know the PS big bushing is fairly easy. I am more concerned with the driver side. If I need to pull the whole thing, then I will probably just go ahead with a new rack since the work is already being done.

 

[Mxndrnks]

Btt:

Any one know for sure if on a 2000 the entire rack needs to be pulled to replace the DS bushings?

 

[spressomon]

Maybe a houdini mechanic...I guess he/she'd be called a magician then ...could get them in on the DS side (and the OEM out). But based upon when I removed the new OEM bushings and then pressed my SuperPro poly bushings in to the driver's side I'd say no.

 

[no-pistons]

The online parts diagrams don't show it, but the FSM (at least for my MY2000) show that the 4 bolts and 2 nuts used to anchor the PS gear are not re-useable. FYI, and plan ahead when you order the bushing to order some bolts/nuts from your favorite Toyota source as well.

Anyone know the part numbers for those bolts and nuts?

 

[Shawvez]

Ah, I am also faced with the dilemma of a leaky rack. I've been postponing the repair after seeing the rack prices. When I searched I found reman.(out of stock) and $$$ new ones. I'm surprised no one has a "bullet proof" aftermarket solution.

 

[MilkmanVX]

SuperPro and Steering rack bushes ...

So ... it appears that I need to replace my Steering rack bushes and the UCA on the passenger side ...

How did it come to this, well, I recently replaced the rack end and TRE on the DS (hence eliminating that teeth clenching shudder whenever I hit the larger holes) -this I did as I was replacing a leaking CV boot (inner). While I was under there I noticed that the boot of the UCA ball joint was torn -but one of the mechs assured me it was still ok (I was not convinced since he could move it easily with his bare hands ... so I have been monitoring it). Yes, it turned out to be DONE!!

So today I jacked the car up and had my grounds guy move the wheels (9-3 and 12-6) ... that is when I noticed that on the PS the UCA makes a knocking noise as it moves (9-3) -I have since isolated this to the bad ball joint and worn/stressed UCA bushings. As we checked the other wheel (with the new rack end and TRE), I noticed that the bloody steering rack moved GENEROUSLY up and down!!! -

So, I need to replace my UCA on the PS and the steering rack bushings... the rack does not leak and somehow still steers very well -It has a slight (very) pull to the PS on the highway -but almost no play (sigh, but understand my previous car was a 79 V8 range rover soooooooo ...steering wander is ehhh... -well ) ..... I must say though that it does not drive truly straight over corrugations -and I feel like I have to correct -but I thought that was mostly because of the soft settings I put -AHC and all ....

Anyway, I am stoked (somewhat) I found a problem to "fix" on the LC - I come from range rover pedigree so fixing is part of driving (or so I thought) .... Luckily SuperPro has an agent in Kenya and I should be able to get the bushes in a couple of weeks -the UCA is readily available .....

Yes, in case you noticed, I am preparing for the annual 4X4 pilgrimage that is the Rhino Charge!!

and thanks to the forum for the super helpful info ... (be knowing that Toyota Kenya and all the other "Genuine Parts" suppliers have told me that I need to replace the entire rack -which, I know not to be true) Cheers to the fellows who started this thread way back in 07 .....!!!!!!!

 

[Mxndrnks]

So ... it appears that I need to replace my Steering rack bushes and the UCA on the passenger side ...

How did it come to this, well, I recently replaced the rack end and TRE on the DS (hence eliminating that teeth clenching shudder whenever I hit the larger holes) -this I did as I was replacing a leaking CV boot (inner). While I was under there I noticed that the boot of the UCA ball joint was torn -but one of the mechs assured me it was still ok (I was not convinced since he could move it easily with his bare hands ... so I have been monitoring it). Yes, it turned out to be DONE!!

So today I jacked the car up and had my grounds guy move the wheels (9-3 and 12-6) ... that is when I noticed that on the PS the UCA makes a knocking noise as it moves (9-3) -I have since isolated this to the bad ball joint and worn/stressed UCA bushings. As we checked the other wheel (with the new rack end and TRE), I noticed that the bloody steering rack moved GENEROUSLY up and down!!! -

So, I need to replace my UCA on the PS and the steering rack bushings... the rack does not leak and somehow still steers very well -It has a slight (very) pull to the PS on the highway -but almost no play (sigh, but understand my previous car was a 79 V8 range rover soooooooo ...steering wander is ehhh... -well ) ..... I must say though that it does not drive truly straight over corrugations -and I feel like I have to correct -but I thought that was mostly because of the soft settings I put -AHC and all ....

Anyway, I am stoked (somewhat) I found a problem to "fix" on the LC - I come from range rover pedigree so fixing is part of driving (or so I thought) .... Luckily SuperPro has an agent in Kenya and I should be able to get the bushes in a couple of weeks -the UCA is readily available .....

Yes, in case you noticed, I am preparing for the annual 4X4 pilgrimage that is the Rhino Charge!!

and thanks to the forum for the super helpful info ... (be knowing that Toyota Kenya and all the other "Genuine Parts" suppliers have told me that I need to replace the entire rack -which, I know not to be true) Cheers to the fellows who started this thread way back in 07 .....!!!!!!!

With the amount of work you are about to undergo just to change the bushings, (on your 99 you are going to have to pull the entire rack to change out the bushings) I would seriously consider just putting a New not reman. OEM rack in at the same time. I am doing that right now....

 

[bluecruiser]

I could replace the PS bushing without full removal on the rack. Is it the drivers side that requires the full removal on the 1999 model year?

thanks

 

[spressomon]

I could replace the PS bushing without full removal on the rack. Is it the drivers side that requires the full removal on the 1999 model year?

thanks

Yes: The large diameter "D" shaped bushing on the passenger's side/right hand is a 1/2 job that takes about 30-minutes give or take.

The other two smaller rack bushings found on the driver's side/left hand require the rack to be removed to be able to press them in/out.

About 2-1/2 years ago I installed, along with a brand new rack from Onur, the SuperPro urethane bushings (3) and have been pleased with their performance and durability.

There is very slightly more road feel at the steering wheel from the urethane bumpers versus the softer factory rubber type bushings...I only noticed it right after I made the switch.

 

[MilkmanVX]

With the amount of work you are about to undergo just to change the bushings, (on your 99 you are going to have to pull the entire rack to change out the bushings) I would seriously consider just putting a New not reman. OEM rack in at the same time. I am doing that right now....

Ehhh ... new rack is approx US$1,300/-

New bushings = US$100/-

Labour will come to probably US$50/- -if that ...

Money saved will go towards the much needed sliders, front bull bar and

So, no new rack for me ... especially since I know that the rack itself is NOT the issue ....

 

[jgray]

How ironic that this thread has been updated in the last day... Well I guess I also need to replace at least the steering rack bushing on the passenger side or I won't pass inspection... Thankfully Spresso seems to indicate that this is the only one that is easy to swap out... I guess I will buy OEM Toyota temporarily and and order the Super Pro kit to replace them all...

My question is how do you determine if you should replace the rack all together? I just hit 180,000 miles so I'm guessing I should replace it...

 

[bluecruiser]

I replaced mine when it started leaking. I guess you need to jack up the front and have someone watch for play at the rack if you have no leaks.

 

[spressomon]

Leaking rack and/or excessive lateral play (contributes to steering wander most noticeable on highway...)

 

[Mxndrnks]

yeah what they said... For me, I changed out the PS side bushing to see if that helped first. But the DS were SO shot I could pull little pieces of the bushing out by hand. Since the entire rack needs to come out to change those on a 2000 (not sure which year they changed the design on) I decided it only made since to change out the rack. I had some one hit my car while parked a few years ago and my Drivers side wheel took 90% of the impact. I looked back over the paper work and wasnt able to actually determine if the original was in there or if there was a reman unit in. I didnt want to need to pull the rack twice if new bushings didnt fix it. My most notable problem was difficulty in getting an alignment....

 

[OGBeno]

Ehhh ... new rack is approx US$1,300/-

New bushings = US$100/-

Labour will come to probably US$50/- -if that ...

Money saved will go towards the much needed sliders, front bull bar and

So, no new rack for me ... especially since I know that the rack itself is NOT the issue ....

New OEM rack IS NOT $1300....less than half that actually.

 

[jonharis]

Ehhh ... new rack is approx US$1,300/-

New bushings = US$100/-

Labour will come to probably US$50/- -if that ...

Money saved will go towards the much needed sliders, front bull bar and

So, no new rack for me ... especially since I know that the rack itself is NOT the issue ....

New OEM rack IS NOT $1300....less than half that actually.

At least his Grand Total sounds about right. $1300.00 Parts + $50 Labor. $1350 out the door to have the rack installed. Sounds about right!

 

[Mxndrnks]

I think for milkman.... he is in Kenya...on my phone so I cant tell for sure. But for reference, I got my new rack through Beno. List is a little over $700 USD. Less the mud discount. My shop is installing it today for $300. So i am less than $900 installed.