Steering knuckle centering tool instructions (FAQ) (1 Viewer)

[Stubby]

In case anyone would like a copy, I took all of Coolerman's original pictures / instructions, did some formatting and such to match the steps to the photos, and made a PDF version......

 

[Brice Noonan]

Thanks for doing that Stubby, and also finding a photo of measurement A. I've put an image of this same measurement below for others that are looking.

 

[Brice Noonan]

EDIT: So it turns out it matters which direction you insert the bolt into the knuckle. Sorry, but keeping this here to help others that do the same. If you measure 0 for D, flip the tool around inside the knuckle. Doh.
———————————
OK, an issue that I am now facing: Measurement D (between the 2 score lines) is essentially zero. See photo of scribed lines below. I can't even differentiate one from the other. Any suggestions? Should I just move forward with D=0?

 

[MartynFJ4071]

I’ve been going through knuckle hell and trying to make sense of the last instruction in the Fsm procedure.

They refer to the scribe tool as the ‘plug’. Your supposed to put a feeler gauge between the plug and gauge rod. I don’t get it at all.
Also, if you have an early Cruiser the centering tool ending in 13/14 will not fit your spindle, only the axle housing. You’ll need to spin up a separate bush to fit the spindle and also hold the scribe tool or ‘plug’.
The tool for early Cruisers is 09634-60012 but is discontinued and not available that I could find.
I made this out of acetal which worked out well and used the oem tool 09634-60014 for the rest of the job.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I got a guy to turn one for the early 40s and put it in our STLCA club kit. All the other parts are the same.
I bought Trail Tailor tool which only does late 40s.

 

[dazerb]

EDIT: So it turns out it matters which direction you insert the bolt into the knuckle. Sorry, but keeping this here to help others that do the same. If you measure 0 for D, flip the tool around inside the knuckle. Doh.
———————————
OK, an issue that I am now facing: Measurement D (between the 2 score lines) is essentially zero. See photo of scribed lines below. I can't even differentiate one from the other. Any suggestions? Should I just move forward with D=0?

View attachment 2280663

Wonder if you figured it out ?

 

[Brice Noonan]

I'm about to go through this again next weekend on a rig that has been sitting for a while (I have a separate thread on that project). But posting here as I have never really had a satisfying result using my aftermarket KCT.
The last knuckle I did, I went through the whole KCT procedure and figured out my shim setup. Got em installed and started measuring preload. Waaaaay off. Had to remove a significant amount of shim to get anywhere close to the desired preload....
So what is more important? Calculated shim amount, or preload? I see folks post video about placing shims, then adding/removing to get preload right so I'm not alone here. (this assumes I did things correctly)

Also, post #12 in this thread mentions that there are 2 different sized KCT models? I did not see other details (I think they came from a dead link posted by @Poser in post #5).

 

[POPO AGIE]

I was setting up the Short Side yesterday and my A to B reading differential was huge and I asked for help and it was point out I was not reading A on the machined flats so I was measuring the total stack up.

The shim pack for the top was way over .300" and that made the thrust clearance massive.

I set up shims on a turbine thrust bearings all the time and increasing the thrust shim tightens up the clearance so I was thinking that way. I figured out that the bigger the shim pack is the more the trunnion moves away for the bearing which increases the thrust movement.

So today I will remove the knuckle and reinstall the knuckle alignment tool and take the reading the right way. The Long Side should go much faster.

 

[Brice Noonan]

I was setting up the Short Side yesterday and my A to B reading differential was huge and I asked for help and it was point out I was not reading A on the machined flats so I was measuring the total stack up.

The shim pack for the top was way over .300" and that made the thrust clearance massive.

I set up shims on a turbine thrust bearings all the time and increasing the thrust shim tightens up the clearance so I was thinking that way. I figured out that the bigger the shim pack is the more the trunnion moves away for the bearing which increases the thrust movement.

So today I will remove the knuckle and reinstall the knuckle alignment tool and take the reading the right way. The Long Side should go much faster.

Hi @POPO AGIE. Can you explain what you mean about your 'not reading A on the machined flats'? Do you mean the notch at top and bottom where the calipers are to be set for measurement? And what is 'thrust clearance'?

 

[POPO AGIE]

I measured here

 

[Brice Noonan]

Ahhh yes, OK. That makes sense. You are correct, based on my understanding that is not where the measurement is to be made.
I'm keen to hear how your 'shimming' goes, followed by getting proper preload.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I should have measured here. Thrust movement was the up and down movement I has with too much shim because it was lifting the steering trunnion out of the bearing.

 

[Spike Strip]

Also, post #12 in this thread mentions that there are 2 different sized KCT models? I did not see other details (I think they came from a dead link posted by @Poser in post #5).

Not two diff models, there are two different inserts (the pointy part that goes into axle shaft housing). One for Front Drum brakes, one for later disc. IIRC the bronze bush are diff sizes... The Toyota tool and the TT come with both inserts, or should.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

@Brice Noonan the FSM walks you through the measurement process step by step. Sit down and read it, then grab some tools and go step by step through the process.

It's actually pretty easy once you put hands on everything, if I can do it, I'm sure you'll be fine.

It's just a messy job.