If I wiggle the steering wheel around I can get a little clunk. Never notice it while driving, only if I try it sitting parked (engine/road/tire noise drowns it out when running).
Steering clunk (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Cruisin'Carolina
- Start date
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I have a clunk too. Lots of good possibilities listed above for what the cause might be. I've replaced TRE's, springs, shocks, rebuilt knuckles, wheel bearings, etc. Only thing I have not replaced is the steering box and the u-joints in the steering column. As noted above, these are expensive, and difficult.
So I did a cheap test. Jacked up the truck (by the frame) letting the axle hang. Used a screwdriver and grease gun to put grease inbetween the tips of the leaves in the front spring packs.
NO MORE NOISE. In my case, the clunk was clearly from shifting of the leaves.
A few weeks of rain, and the clunk comes back. I don't care anymore, since I know it's no big deal. It's like cruiser lean - part of the character.
So I did a cheap test. Jacked up the truck (by the frame) letting the axle hang. Used a screwdriver and grease gun to put grease inbetween the tips of the leaves in the front spring packs.
NO MORE NOISE. In my case, the clunk was clearly from shifting of the leaves.
A few weeks of rain, and the clunk comes back. I don't care anymore, since I know it's no big deal. It's like cruiser lean - part of the character.
Hahaaa! I like the cruiser lean comment!!! MINE does that (probably why my leaves clunk!!) 
60wag
SILVER Star
I can feel a bit of play in the steering shaft but mine is in the slip joint between the ujoints. There is a grease fitting for the slip joint. If I load it up with grease, the feeling of looseness goes away but returns a couple hundred miles later. Removeing the entire steering shaft isn't that hard. Just be careful not to spread the clamps on the ends of the ujoints - they snap in two easily. I was expecting the joints to be shot but they very surprisingly tight. The wear was in the slip joint.
Don't confuse the play in the steering shaft with "spring clunk." THe clunk is much louder, much more irritating. My only solution for spring clunk is the shove some grease between the leaves. It allows the leaves to move more gradually rather than loading up and shifting abruptly.
Don't confuse the play in the steering shaft with "spring clunk." THe clunk is much louder, much more irritating. My only solution for spring clunk is the shove some grease between the leaves. It allows the leaves to move more gradually rather than loading up and shifting abruptly.
My clunk definitely appears to be in the steering column. I will try greasing the fitting.
Also, just make sure that your steering box mounting bolts are all there and tight. On one of my vehicles (Not Toyota, or 4WD) I had found that the previous backyard mechanic had removed/left out a bolt and another was loose so the box flexed while moving the steering wheel.
Probably not the cause of the problems mentioned here, but an easy 'check' anyway.
Probably not the cause of the problems mentioned here, but an easy 'check' anyway.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
toyman317 said:
where is this greasing fitting in the steering column .. ?
We tried to diagnose this same problem and while I was under the front end with my buddie turning the wheel from lock to lock hearing the damn clunk but not being able to find it I saw the spring pack on the driver side shift ever slightly. It only does it with a load on the car, so up on jack stands will not reproduce the clunk. I would have to agree with the 3 suggestions of a shfting spring pack as the source of the clunk. So everybody with this problem pull out the old torque wrench and check the torque on your U-bolts, I forget what it is right now.
hightide said:
Figure I may as well join in. My clunk is just like hightide and cruisin' described. Sounds/feels like it is coming from close to the firewall. The local toyota mechanics said they could not find any problem and thought the only problem might be the steering box.
Yes, torque your u-bolts. That was the solution to my spring clunk. You may want to consider replacing the u-bolts as they are only supposed to be torqued once. If the factory torque has backed off, they shouldn't be reused. The u-bolts are supposed to be torqued to a point where the metal of the nut and bolt bond in a way. Once that bond is broken, it won't ever be the same. I think the spec is 100 ft-lb. but don't quote me.
I also have a bit of a groan in my steering column. It's not PS related. It's the electrical contact (wiper) for the horn rubbing on the slip ring on the back of my steering wheel. It's just worn out and needs to be replaced.
I also have a bit of a groan in my steering column. It's not PS related. It's the electrical contact (wiper) for the horn rubbing on the slip ring on the back of my steering wheel. It's just worn out and needs to be replaced.
You guys rock!
I replaced all my pins and shackles a few months ago, and started to hear the clunk. It has since gone away, but I'm sure that you're right and it was coming from the spring pack.
Nice work.
I replaced all my pins and shackles a few months ago, and started to hear the clunk. It has since gone away, but I'm sure that you're right and it was coming from the spring pack.
Nice work.
That little contact would explain not only the problem of the clunk I hear but probably the reason my horn doesn't work as well. Thanks for that.
Mine is pretty much the same story as the previous posts
This has been driving me nuts too. I have brand new springs and good tie rods etc. But just to make sure I pulled all the front end steering linkage off. Turned the steering wheel, and light clunk still there. Definately in the column, shaft or steering box. So I pulled out the column and steering shaft. I was going to change U joints, but they were fine. Couldn't find anything wrong column , shaft or otherwise. Put it back together. Still there. I guess i don't feel so bad now knowing everyone else has the same problem. I know now to live with it. Greasing the slip joint did smooth it out some though.
This has been driving me nuts too. I have brand new springs and good tie rods etc. But just to make sure I pulled all the front end steering linkage off. Turned the steering wheel, and light clunk still there. Definately in the column, shaft or steering box. So I pulled out the column and steering shaft. I was going to change U joints, but they were fine. Couldn't find anything wrong column , shaft or otherwise. Put it back together. Still there. I guess i don't feel so bad now knowing everyone else has the same problem. I know now to live with it. Greasing the slip joint did smooth it out some though.
- Thread starter
- #34
Is this "slip joint" underneath the rubber boot?
Or Where?
I just don't think mine is spring clunk, it happens on any small bump, no turning required, and I have stock springs that I don't think have ever been messed with.
Glad it;s not the little u-joints, will be a bummer if it is the box. I'll grease the poop out of that one place if someone would verify where it is....
Or Where?
I just don't think mine is spring clunk, it happens on any small bump, no turning required, and I have stock springs that I don't think have ever been messed with.
Glad it;s not the little u-joints, will be a bummer if it is the box. I'll grease the poop out of that one place if someone would verify where it is....
60wag
SILVER Star
On mine the grease zirk is just above the bottom ujoint - between the rubber boot and the yoke for the ujoint.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
60wag said:
inside . ? I'm aslo pretty sure, that my clunk not come from springs pack .. is from steering colum somewhere.
- Thread starter
- #37
Anyone have any pics?
Is the zirk accessible with a mini gun with a flexible hose?
Is the zirk accessible with a mini gun with a flexible hose?
i hope i am not breaking any rules here by cross posting content but my truck has the same issue and i think the fix has ben identified by the people of the very knowledgeable 3FE list/group on yahoo. if you would like the full writeup, please join the list and become a member. here is a snippet that sould work:
Checking your draglink is as simple as having someone work the steering wheel back and forth while you watch for excess play where the draglink attaches to the pitman arm. If it is loose, the next step is to see if it has any adjustment remaining. Most don't.
Remove the cotter pin and, using a special draglink socket or a very large screwdriver, turn the end plug in. If it has been fully adjusted, just back out the adjusting screw and wiggle the steering wheel to loosen the internal components. Work all the components loose, clean thoroughly and then lubricate with lithium based grease.
Now comes the two cent fix. Place a penney in the opening before inserting the first seat half, slip the draglink back onto the ball of the pitman arm, insert the second seat half, another penney and then the spring tensioner (see illustration below). Finally, the end plug is screwed all the way in then loosened ½ turn for proper tension. Lock the plug in place with a new cotter pin and your finished.
Checking your draglink is as simple as having someone work the steering wheel back and forth while you watch for excess play where the draglink attaches to the pitman arm. If it is loose, the next step is to see if it has any adjustment remaining. Most don't.
Remove the cotter pin and, using a special draglink socket or a very large screwdriver, turn the end plug in. If it has been fully adjusted, just back out the adjusting screw and wiggle the steering wheel to loosen the internal components. Work all the components loose, clean thoroughly and then lubricate with lithium based grease.
Now comes the two cent fix. Place a penney in the opening before inserting the first seat half, slip the draglink back onto the ball of the pitman arm, insert the second seat half, another penney and then the spring tensioner (see illustration below). Finally, the end plug is screwed all the way in then loosened ½ turn for proper tension. Lock the plug in place with a new cotter pin and your finished.
- Thread starter
- #39
Great. A useful post and I have really no idea what the difference is between a Pittman arm and a draglink....
Sounds plausible, though.
J/K, I'll go see what I can find, any idea on the thread's title?
Sounds plausible, though.
J/K, I'll go see what I can find, any idea on the thread's title?
60wag
SILVER Star
The pittman arm is the lever mounted on the output shft of the steering box. The drag link (or relay rod) connects the pittman arm to the tie rod. The tie rod connects the two front wheel assemblies together. On some arrangements, like FZJ80s, the drag link connects directly to one of the wheel assemblies rather than the tie rod.
The penny fix is good if your drag link ends are worn out. If you're actually getting a clunk out of a tie rod end, I'd consider replacing it. Its not that expensive and is definitely a significant saftey item. Keep them greased. I like to set the preload spring a bit tighter than the FSM rec's. They rec' bottoming out the plug, then backing it out 1 and 1/3 turns. I back it out 1/2 to 3/4 turns. It makes the steering feel less sloppy but still maintains the function of the spring preloaded ball.
The penny fix is good if your drag link ends are worn out. If you're actually getting a clunk out of a tie rod end, I'd consider replacing it. Its not that expensive and is definitely a significant saftey item. Keep them greased. I like to set the preload spring a bit tighter than the FSM rec's. They rec' bottoming out the plug, then backing it out 1 and 1/3 turns. I back it out 1/2 to 3/4 turns. It makes the steering feel less sloppy but still maintains the function of the spring preloaded ball.
