Steering assembly parts question (1 Viewer)

[Kschep]

When I got my fj40 The old shocks and steering damper were Ranchos from like the year 1998. So they’re old. Anyways, I replaced all my shocks with Beilstein 5150s and I’m now putting a rough country steering damper. As I look under there, I look at all my tie, rods and steering links/bars and obviously they all look old and worn and gunked up. Take a look at the pics I’ve attached…
My question is this: would getting a tierod kit and replacing all those tie rods that look worn to the max help my steering in combination with replacing the steering damper? Or do those not make a huge difference for steering improvement?

 

[Kschep]

Also when you guys look at my steering tire rods and linkage bars, etc., are you guys seeing anything else I should address?
The attachments looked stressed a bit but maybe that’s just my unkeen eye.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Grab the rods and shake, use a pry bar, have someone turn the steering wheel lock to lock while you watch.
Your knuckles are leaking at the inner axle seals. Mine have two groves worn in the flats from the seals - no hubs in its early life. I'm hoping for a Speedi Sleeve solution my self. If not I'm going to braze/weld them and then file/polish them smooth.

 

[77mustard40]

^^ you need to address the birf’s, both sides have leaked, can’t really see the condition of the brake hose. Sounds like you are complaining about the steering… any slop or movement in tie rods, center arm, drag link end, steering box, rag joint or other steering component that doesn’t translate to the wheels is going to have a negative impact on steering performance. What year truck, has it been lifted (if so has caster been addressed), what do the bushings looks like? To me I’d refresh and clean up/paint everything, time to get dirty.

 

[pb4ugo]

How's it drive? It looks like the tre's and center arm haven't been greased in a long time. Have someone shake the steering wheel back and forth while someone looks for unusual movement at the tre, and center link for wobbling. A pry bar can help too. The tire rods can rotate which is ok. Your knuckles need to be serviced too.

 

[B y r o n]

Problems with steering can be traced back to several possible causes. It is one of those areas that is best diagnosed with someone else assisting you. Instead of attacking it hit or miss start where it all begins, the steering wheel. Work your way through the system looking for any looseness or play. Bushings or bearing(s) in the column, slop in the steering box, and then all the rod connections till you get to the wheels. Don't forget to check wheel bearings and knuckle bearings. Once all the problem areas have been addressed it is time to move onto your alignment. Another area that is often overlooked are your tires. Inflation pressure to design and tread patterns can lead to wonky feeling steering.

If you're not comfortable addressing these areas then a reputable shop is in your future. I say "reputable" because if a shop that isn't reputable works on it you're likely to be charged for work that isn't necessary or not done properly leaving you with lighter pockets and wonky steering.

Service manuals will walk you through the proper repair steps.

 

[Kschep]

Thank you guys!
Yes those knuckles are leaky as heck, darn okay..seals replaced?
Drives pretty good just the steering is, I don’t know how to explain, not responsive as I want?
Yes it’s lifted , 1976
I’ll try to get some extra pics

 

[LakeLaurashawn]

You should add in the missing Cotter Pins to retain the crown nuts on your shocks . . .

 

[pb4ugo]

It's more than just seals. You need to service the knuckles, which includes replacing the trunion bearings per the FSM. Inspect bushings and replace if necessary, make sure the Ubolts are tight. You say it's lifted, what's your caster angle?

 

[Kschep]

You should add in the missing Cotter Pins to retain the crown nuts on your shocks . . .View attachment 3808860

The new castle bolts they sell have a thicker profile than original castle bolts that came with car back in the day..so I can drill them in enough to get a pin in .. I ended up finding the lowest profile castle bolts I could find online and they screw in just enough (gold ones in pic) - but thanks - I did know that’s an item on my list … I also found out I have to redrill the pin hole again also bec the codder pin doesn’t wanna go through its hole regardless. So for that, my next steps are re drill the codder pin holes. Just to get old gunk or whatever is blocking the pin then yes out back bolts on with pin. (But trust me they are on their tight af … had my impact drill (prolly had trouble getting off now lol)

 

[Kschep]

It's more than just seals. You need to service the knuckles, which includes replacing the trunion bearings per the FSM. Inspect bushings and replace if necessary, make sure the Ubolts are tight. You say it's lifted, what's your caster angle?

Not sure what caster level is - I’ll google that .. but how do I find that out for you?

 

[charliemeyer007]

You will be measuring it. The vid's will show you how.

 

[Kschep]

^^ you need to address the birf’s, both sides have leaked, can’t really see the condition of the brake hose. Sounds like you are complaining about the steering… any slop or movement in tie rods, center arm, drag link end, steering box, rag joint or other steering component that doesn’t translate to the wheels is going to have a negative impact on steering performance. What year truck, has it been lifted (if so has caster been addressed), what do the bushings looks like? To me I’d refresh and clean up/paint everything, time to get dirty.

Birfs?
Yes lifted - with reverse shackles as well

Here are some more pics showing what you said you couldn’t quite see (well hopefully)

 

[Kschep]

Other side hose etc

 

[Kschep]

So back to my original question - if I replaced all the tie-rods which have never been replaced since early 2000’s or maybe never replaced at all - not sure … just know they are gunked up and look really really worn and stretched at angles - the rubber on them is old, stressed, and at angles that don’t look correct to me: meaning the stress of the angle of the attachment puts on the rubber between the bolt and nut of each tie-rod.

So if I replaced all those and cleaned up my steering rods etc - would that make a difference? Is that something I wanna do? Considering I just replaced all shocks and am putting new steering damper on as well. Just seems like it’s prudent…

 

[charliemeyer007]

Perhaps 12 years ago I bought a bunch of brake parts from them - I got sick and didn't get them put on. but I remember when I check the order they sent me double acting wheel cylinder for the front - with the "just put them on upside down and they will work" - That was my last order with them ever. I'd shop elsewhere, but that just me.

 

[South Texas 97]

Knuckle rebuild kit is not that expensive, and a good learning experience. Tie rod end replacement is also a good move, not that expensive and a simple project. There are a ton of videos on doing both of these jobs, and the FSM is definitely your friend.

 

[77mustard40]

I’d have a friend rock the steering wheel while you watch the movement of each tie rod, you will able to tell if they are shot. I’d also choose the Japanese 555’s from Cruiser Outfitters if you are replacing them. Make sure to paint them before installing as they will flash rust. Invest in a good tie rod separator too, makes quicker work when replacing the old ones.