I was looking at some wheels the other day and the company selling them includes a hubcentric adapter that snaps into the wheel before installation. I thought that was an interesting approach. When you order the wheels you have to give them the make and model of the vehicle they are going on. I didn't think it was too bad of an idea. On my 91 I have Eagle Alloy 589s and have had no problem with balance. I've been fighting the balance on my 94 with the factory alloys for some time. I haven't had time but I should do this. My friend has a balancer that balances the tires on the vehicle. I guess this is really good until you pull a tire off and have to move it.
steel wheels
- Thread starter landandsea
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- Thread starter
- #62
Eric,
If the lugs on 80 hubs are the same as lugs on a non-hub-centric hub, then they are probably safe. I didn't have the time to research that because I was getting ready for a long trip. I needed new tires and wanted to put them on steel rims. Went the safe (albeit expensive) route and bought the factory wheels at about twice the price of aftermarket.
The factory steelies balanced without needing much weight. Others reported the aftermarket wheels didn't balance easily.
Ed
If the lugs on 80 hubs are the same as lugs on a non-hub-centric hub, then they are probably safe. I didn't have the time to research that because I was getting ready for a long trip. I needed new tires and wanted to put them on steel rims. Went the safe (albeit expensive) route and bought the factory wheels at about twice the price of aftermarket.
The factory steelies balanced without needing much weight. Others reported the aftermarket wheels didn't balance easily.
Ed
I don't think safety was ever the issue, but more balance.
is it me, or is there a lot of conflicting info up there?
Toy says there steelies are hubcentric but CDan says the hole is too big... I trust Dan more than Toy...
Ed, are your OEM steelies using conical lugs? is the center hole bigger than the hub?
E
Toy says there steelies are hubcentric but CDan says the hole is too big... I trust Dan more than Toy...
Ed, are your OEM steelies using conical lugs? is the center hole bigger than the hub?
E
The areas of the factory steel rims that contacts the hub is a set of small tabs that are about half as thick as the rim itself. These things can get bent and if balancing with a cone to the hub can give mixed results. I had them balanced that way but made sure there was no damage to these tabs. The balancing was fine with a new set of X-Terrains last year.
- Thread starter
- #66
Eric,
Sorry for the late reply...Using conical lugnuts that I got from CDan. They are black - a mysterious coating that has held up perfectly. They aren't open nuts; more like big cap nuts
I've not had an occassion to personally remove or mount one of these rims, so I don't know how snug (or not) they fit. They do have the tabs that Rick mentioned.
Ed
Sorry for the late reply...Using conical lugnuts that I got from CDan. They are black - a mysterious coating that has held up perfectly. They aren't open nuts; more like big cap nuts
I've not had an occassion to personally remove or mount one of these rims, so I don't know how snug (or not) they fit. They do have the tabs that Rick mentioned.
Ed
OK, latest:
installed a set of Tundra 16x7 steelies on the '97.
Amazingly, the center hole on the steelies fits the 80 hub perfectly, if anything better than the OEM alloys. Very close fit. But can still put them on easy.
FWIW, the backspacing on these is 4.6" to the very end of the back lip. Nowhere close to hitting things under there that I can see. And with the narrower wheel and larger backspacing, seems like there should be even less chance of rubbing against the fender lip when stuffed.
All in all, seems like a good way to go.
HTH
E
installed a set of Tundra 16x7 steelies on the '97.
Amazingly, the center hole on the steelies fits the 80 hub perfectly, if anything better than the OEM alloys. Very close fit. But can still put them on easy.
FWIW, the backspacing on these is 4.6" to the very end of the back lip. Nowhere close to hitting things under there that I can see. And with the narrower wheel and larger backspacing, seems like there should be even less chance of rubbing against the fender lip when stuffed.
All in all, seems like a good way to go.
HTH
E
R
robbie
Guest
My experence with this is that the 95-97 fit tighter to the hub than the 91-94. There is gobbs of lateral movement from side to side or up and down. So this says to me that the earlier ones are not hub centric where the later ones are. Just my experence with the different models. later robbie.
R
robbie
Guest
Let me start something here. Why do you want the old heavy fuel robbing steel wheel any way? The last several years of real hard wheeling I have done and all the miles I have acculumated so far tell me I have no need for the steel wheel to date. the Alloy ones have done every thing I needed and not broken, or ended up wobbly. Maybe it time to come into the twenty centry and give up steel. dan have you ever had to bend a steel wheel back yet, or replace a alloy one for any one you know that wheel? I personally have only seen a couple of steel wheels bent up bad, where I have only seen one broken alloy wheel (aftermarket) broken where it could not be used. I have not seen any toyota stock wheel destroyed, (not to say that does not happen, I have not seen any yet from wheeling). Just a thought or two. later robbie
robbie said:
Hi Robbie,
good points but simple answer for me: $$
Alloy wheel new: $pipe dream
Alloy wheel used: at least $100 each if you're lucky
OEM LC steel new: $110
OEM LC steel used: can't find it
Aftermarket LC Steelie new: $70 or so in 16x8
All the new ones above have either tax or shipping
Tundra/T100 etc alloy new: $unaffordable
Tundra alloy used: $100 plus each
Tundra steel used: $25 or so.
You can find used Tundra steelies very cheap around, nobody into bling bling wants them.
So, by getting used Tundra steelies you save at least $300 for 5 -or much more- which makes getting a second set of wheels more affordable which in turn means you can save fuel and rubber by running your heavy wheelin' tires only for those special days...
Of course, I would have used the OEM alloys if I was just changing tires and having only one set.
E
There was a set of LC Alloys on the FS forum a couple days ago for $200 for the set. They're out there.....
R
robbie
Guest
performance tire and wheel will some times have older toyota wheel for 50-75 dollars, usually these will be scratch some how, or will be just setting around for too long. Just a thought. later robbie
shipping wheels
E, If you have Forward Air in your area it's about $100 for shipping a set of wheels across country. So it's not that expensive if you getting an initial deal on the item/s.
Carl
e9999 said:
E, If you have Forward Air in your area it's about $100 for shipping a set of wheels across country. So it's not that expensive if you getting an initial deal on the item/s.
Carl
here, in case this helps if you ever wondered about the Tundra wheels:
first photo is with OEM alloys and 275 Michelin LTX
second photo with Tundra steelies and 285 GY MT/Rs
(and check out how clean the lines are without the blasted port roof rack...)
first photo is with OEM alloys and 275 Michelin LTX
second photo with Tundra steelies and 285 GY MT/Rs
(and check out how clean the lines are without the blasted port roof rack...)
