Starting Problem -Post Starter Rebuild- (1 Viewer)

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Jomama

Lucideye
Joined
Jun 4, 2003
Threads
45
Messages
552
Location
Anchorage AK
Situ: Last sept. while running around to different stores over a lunch break (Wet Rainy day). Had 10-20 min period where my truck wouldn't start. Turn the key, all normal lights light up, go dim when key turned to start, but absolutely nothing happend on the starter end. No sound nothing. Within 15 min of just waiting it fixed itself, truck started and drove away.

After suggestions here I ordered my contacts & plunger, but procrastinated on doing the rebuild.

Begining of December, similar thing happend. Got home from a long drive thru wet snow conditions. Parked the truck, came back out 30 minutes later, and same symptoms, wouldn't start. Ran to store in another vehicle, and my truck started right up the next morning.

I did the starter rebuild the following weekend. No problems there, started right up... prob solved right????? :doh:

Truck sat for a week and a half over the holidays. Pretty cold thru that whole time. First day back driving it this past Saturday. Stop at a store and come back out 10 min later, truck's still warm, but no start. Clear and cold now, not wet at all. Same symptoms. Key does nothing, all lights come on, and dim when key's turned to "start". Sat in the truck for mabey 5-10 min. Banged on the battery connection, gave the key cylinder a good wack, and started up a few min's later.

Is there a ignition switch somewhere under the dash that could be causing this intermittent problem??? Thats my only guess.

My battery is probably at the end of its life, but its still functioning OK despite the cold.

Any ideas?

Thanks in Advance.


:cheers: :beer:
 
Did you check the battery and ground cables for corrosion?
 
Battery posts and post-end of the cables look fine. Cant say for sure if I checked the ground end of the negative. Battery looked pretty new when I got the truck back in Feb 03 (stickers clean & shiney, etc), however they forgot to punch out the date/year to show me when it was installed. Its a "Toyota" brand Battery and it was a one-owner vehicle.

I also messed with my trany when it wouldn't start this last Sat. Shifted out to neutral and back a few times to make sure it wasn't a sticky switch disabling the ign. if the trany isn't in park.
 
if its a Toyota brand batt, then its been replaced at some point. Sorry no real idea's :(

[quote author=Jomama link=board=2;threadid=9674;start=msg84972#msg84972 date=1073340618]
Battery posts and post-end of the cables look fine. Cant say for sure if I checked the ground end of the negative. Battery looked pretty new when I got the truck back in Feb 03 (stickers clean & shiney, etc), however they forgot to punch out the date/year to show me when it was installed. Its a "Toyota" brand Battery and it was a one-owner vehicle.

I also messed with my trany when it wouldn't start this last Sat. Shifted out to neutral and back a few times to make sure it wasn't a sticky switch disabling the ign. if the trany isn't in park.


[/quote]
 
Jo

I would try and replace the battery as well. I was experiencing a similar situation (and was also worried that it was the starter), replace the battery (original OEM) and it seems fine.

As times I would put a multimeter on it and it would read 13V+ and others <10V - have you tested it with a MM?

Cheers, Hugh
 
Jomama,
11 year old truck so it's probably the 2nd battery and deep into it's usable life. Since you live in Alaska I'm guessing the weather is pretty hard on batteries.

At least get the battery tested.

-B-
 
The battery should have a date code branded in it on the top cover. It may be covered by the mounting bar.
 
Thanks all.

Will test bat tonight with my Multimeter and see what I get. This does not give me quite the same info that Load Testing gives you when done at your local checker tho correct??

I'll replace the bat this weekend and just wait & see if it happens again.

:cheers:
 
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=9674;start=msg85010#msg85010 date=1073343081]
The battery should have a date code branded in it on the top cover. It may be covered by the mounting bar.
[/quote]

Thanks, I'll have to have another look.
 
FWIW, I've always associated that particular problem with an internal connection within the battery. Back in high school I had a battery that every so often I'd have to go out and wrech on the positive post and it would then work again. On my niece's car several relatives basically said I was out of my mind and wasting her money. Well her mother is damn glad I put the battery in. More than a month and no problems.
 
>> ... wrech on the positive post... <<

Wasn't that kinda messy? Did the acid in the bile clean up the posts? Just wonderin' :D

-B-

(Or maybe that's retch... )
 
Just to be sure, when testing with the DMM, check the voltage on both the negative battery post and chasis ground (so that you could isolating the grounding problem).

Frank.
 

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