Starting electrical issues pt2 (1 Viewer)

[frontviewmirror]

Well, today when reversing up a hill to park the truck I stalled it. Cue the usual turn the key and go about my business; except all I get is a click. Voltage showed good (13.5 volts) on the gauge and I had no problems starting in the morning (20 something degrees) so I don't think it is the battery. I was receiving the same results earlier this month (old thread) that were rectified by a battery replacement. However, after rolling it down the hill to start it, driving around the block, and parking it then cranked just fine. This, along with the fact that the door shocks me occasionally (could just be static electricity but feels like 12v), leads me to believe that I have some sort of electrical short or other issue somewhere. It has so far only happened on days after precipitation while in the cold if that helps any. Does anyone have any ideas where to start searching? I am currently studing a chassis and body manual for an electrical diagram but have not reached any conclusions as of yet. Thanks for any help in advance!

 

[3_puppies]

I would start by checking and cleaning all the ground
battery, engine mount, starter and frame

 

[Beams37]

What he said. LOL

 

[John McVicker]

Is this a basically stock 60…2f, original starter & 4 speed.

If so I would do this as a test: Run a wire straight from the battery to the starter solenoid. Touch the solenoid and if it starts that would tell me (past experience) that your wiring is old & not enough juice is getting to the starter.

The band aid fix (but definitely long term…years & years) is to install a $15 4 pin relay that will allow the starter to get full juice directly from the battery when you turn the key.

Did this on my 62, lasted until I sold it, which was about 5 years & probably still on it.

 

[toy_tek]

Starter original? Could be worn internal contacts and needs a starter rebuild. Cheap and easy.

Often results in an intermittent start. If you hear the plunger click, but the starter motor doesn’t spin, this is your culprit. Assuming the rest of your wiring (and grounds) are serviceable.

 

[frontviewmirror]

It is mostly stock, the only things that I know to have been done to it are an h55 swap and an emissions delete. The last time I had this issue I both replaced the starter and had the starter tested by a reputable rebuilder (Southern Armature Works). I will definitely check the grounds again, though the last time I checked everything seemed up to snuff. Thanks for the replies.

 

[John McVicker]

If so I would do this as a test: Run a wire straight from the battery to the starter solenoid. Touch the solenoid and if it starts that would tell me (past experience) that your wiring is old & not enough juice is getting to the starter.

@frontviewmirror my post # 4: this TEST will take you maybe 15 mins. to rig up and will tell you exactly what you need to know. 10 feet or so of 12g wire. Run it from the battery to starter solenoid. If it starts there’s more than one way to address the fix. My post describes one that works well.

 

[frontviewmirror]

If so I would do this as a test: Run a wire straight from the battery to the starter solenoid. Touch the solenoid and if it starts that would tell me (past experience) that your wiring is old & not enough juice is getting to the starter.

@frontviewmirror my post # 4: this TEST will take you maybe 15 mins. to rig up and will tell you exactly what you need to know. 10 feet or so of 12g wire. Run it from the battery to starter solenoid. If it starts there’s more than one way to address the fix. My post describes one that works well.

Will definitely try this. Thanks for the help!

 

[OSS]

Remove the battery cable clamps from the battery posts and lightly clean both the clamp contact surfaces and the battery terminals. Reattach. Betcha that will fix it.

 

[Hammer45]

Bet your dome light switch on the driver door is grounding when you get out of the truck and maybe other times. Intermittents are the worst. I would gently look at the wire harness at the door then the door dome light switch. And when you try to start but get no cranking, is the CEL illuminated as it should be?

 

[frontviewmirror]

Well, it has not done it again. All of my grounds and terminals were clean and tight and the starter does kick when directly hooked up. It does leave me wondering when/if it will do it again.... @Hammer45 I have disconnected the dome light switch and hopefully that is the issue with the zapping.

 

[Seth S]

You getting zapped when you get out of the truck has nothing to do with the 12v battery or dome light and is solely due to static build up.

Sounds to me like your original starter solenoid trigger wires are old and not able to supply enough juice to trigger the starter solenoid properly. You can put a fender mounted solenoid in for very little money. Use the stock wire as the trigger and run new heavier cable from the battery through the fender solenoid to the starter.

 

[John McVicker]

Since your direct hook up test kicks the starter on…your fix is in post 4 & 7. Very simple fix.