Starter wiring issues (1 Viewer)

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So Ive been searching for an answer but I cant find anyone that has had the same problem as I. But I cant for the life of me figure our how to wire my starter in..

It should be easy, but I must be missing something simple.

Heres my Starter.

2012-07-02_11-21-38_163-1.jpg


And the back of my Ignition switch

2012-07-02_11-22-16_482.jpg


So when everything is wired as pictured I get a single click from the starter ( I assume this is the solenoid engaging.)
Then if I disconnect st wire from the solenoidthen the starter spins but is not engaged..

I have no clue what is going on. This is a new starter, and I have replaced the wires with heaver gauge wiring.
 
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Kind of weird question for me? Why do you have an ignition wire on starter? You should only have a crank wire.. But I am new to Toyota wiring .. so I will sit back and hopefully someone more knowledgeable will step forward.. but just for me the Ignition wire off your switch should be going to coil power not starter. and crank wire should be going to terminal you have IG on on starter..just me.. I guess.... Good luck
 
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So Ive been searching for an answer but I cant find anyone that has had the same problem as I. But I cant for the life of me figure our how to wire my starter in..

What is the problem you are having?

If the engine cranks but does not fire, then I think copper204 is correct, you need to have 12v going to the coil.

You will need 12v at the coil during cranking and when the ignition switch is in "on" or "run" position.

Run a wire directly from the 'ON' teminal of the ignition switch to the coil's positive terminal. This provides power to the ignition when the keyswitch is in the "run" or "on" position. This should also have a ballast resistor in line with this wire if it's a points type ignition.

Run another wire from the starter's IG contact to the coil's positive terminal. This will provide power to the coil during engine cranking or "start".

If you do have a wire running from the IG on the starter solenoid to the ignition switch, remove it.
 

Steamer

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The "IG" terminal on the ignition switch should go to the coil or rather the ballast resistor if you have one. I'm "guessing" that extra terminal on the starter you marked "IG" is probably the ballast resistor bypass circuit which is only hot while cranking & should go right to the coil and not through the resistor.
 
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Diagram and explanation:
+12v battery is applied through orange wire through fuse “F” and then to ignition switch.

operator turns ignition switch to the start position 'st'. +12v battery power flows through orange wire, through fuse “F” through ignition switch contacts and through pink wire to starter solenoid. Starter solenoid is energized and closes contacts causing power to be supplied to starter motor directly through the large red wire. Starter motor starts cranking engine over. The contacts in starter's solenoid also apply +12v to the green wire connected to the coils + terminal providing power to the ignition system during cranking.

Once engine fires, operator releases ignition key switch and it returns to the ‘on’ position, removing power from the pink wire causing the starter solenoid to retract, disconnecting contacts in solenoid and breaking the circuit to the starter motor through the large red wire and the power to the coil through the green wire. At the same instant the keyswitch is now in the 'run' or ‘on’ position and power is applied to the blue wire where +12v is applied through the ballast resistor to the coil’s + terminal and the engine’s ignition continues to receive power so the engine keeps running.

When keyswitch is moved to the ‘acc’ position, the contacts to the ‘on’ position of the keyswitch is opened and the coil no longer has power and the engine stops firing and stops rotating. At the same time, power is applied to the ‘acc’ terminal on the switch and any accessories are powered.

When the keyswitch is moved to the ‘off’ opposition, power is removed from the ‘acc’ terminal on the keyswitch and any accessories are turned off.
ignition3.jpg
 
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You should remove the "battery" wire from the stater to the ignition switch. This is not correct. It should connect to the - side of the amp meter along with te B wire from the alternator. The ST wire from the switch connects to the lug terminal on the solenoid. The pig tail lead is the ballast resistor bypass wire that goes to the + side of the coil. You would need a ballast resistor on the coil for this wire to be meaningful. If you don't, you don't need this wire.
 
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Thanks for the replys im at work now, but ill set it up like that diagram when i get back
 
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I love it. When someone puts out a call for help. Everyone jumps in and buries him under our combined knowledge. Perfection......lol
 
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Just wire it up as is shown in the factory wiring diagram. You can find the schematic diagram in tech links above on this site. The diagrams posted are not sufficiently detailed to get it correct.
 
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It actually appears he has stepped outside of the factory harness and is using a whole new set of wires and created his own ignition circuit?
 

Steamer

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Your first pic shows a wire labeled "to voltmeter". Did you mean ammeter or was the ammeter replaced with a voltmeter? Or do you have both?
 
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It actually appears he has stepped outside of the factory harness and is using a whole new set of wires and created his own ignition circuit?

This is what I assumed since the wiring pictured did not look like the stock harness connections or wires.

Just wire it up as is shown in the factory wiring diagram. You can find the schematic diagram in tech links above on this site. The diagrams posted are not sufficiently detailed to get it correct.

Agreed, if you are wanting to keep it stock, then use the factory wiring diagram.

The diagram and explanation I posted earlier is somewhat generic and should work for most engines if you are just trying to get it functional, but it may not duplicate the factory wiring.

If you are making your own wiring, be sure to include safety devices like properly rated fuses, fusable links, or circuit breakers. If something goes bad in the circuit later on, you don't want to cause a bigger problem by omitting them.
 
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Alright, update.. So I wired up all factory, and I still got nothing. .. So I was getting frustrated. I decided to take my ignition cylinder out and poke around well I was just touchin wires like they would be wired factory..

and low and behold my Ignition cylinder was causin problems.. I dont know what was goin on with it but im goin to grab another one in the morning.. Thanks for the help.
 
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Alright, update.. So I wired up all factory, and I still got nothing. .. So I was getting frustrated. I decided to take my ignition cylinder out and poke around well I was just touchin wires like they would be wired factory..

and low and behold my Ignition cylinder was causin problems.. I dont know what was goin on with it but im goin to grab another one in the morning.. Thanks for the help.

You were operating in my way... When the one part that seems to be good. you look right past it till it smacks you.. I hate that.. But dang happy you got it figured out..:bounce::bounce2:
 
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Yeah its dumb cause its something which should not have been busted, cause its new(ish)..

Oh well...

never mind that.. I thnik I have a bigger problem..

My engine might be stuck (seized).. EF
 
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Pull the starter and make sure the bloody throwout gear is not thrown out and stuck against the flywheel, Been there done that on several rigs over the years,
 

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