Stand for early FJ40 engine

[VA Mountain FJ40]

I am preparing to remove the stock engine, transmission, and transfer case from my 1967 FJ40 as a unit. Replace with waiting new engine and transmission/ transfer case as a whole. As of today, the original engine and transmission and transfer case are still in the car.

I currently have a Remanufactured F engine mounted on a Harbor Freight stand, waiting to attach new flywheel and clutch. The engine stand bolts to the F block at the flywheel end, and the attachment bolts from the stand to the block are too short to allow the flywheel and clutch to be attached to the new engine while on the stand. It looks like I’m going to need to hang the new engine from a cherry picker to install flywheel clutch and transmission, then set them down somewhere so I can use the cherry picker to pull the old engine / trans / t-case as a unit from the FJ engine bay.

I have a one and a half ton cherry picker. If I use the cherry picker to take the new engine off the stand to install the flywheel and clutch, I won’t be able to bolt it back up to the engine stand. I’m also going to need the cherry picker (along with floor jacks) to pull the old engine and transmission combination and set aside for rebuild at a later date. It looks like I’m going to have to rent, borrow, or buy a second engine stand. Perhaps a storage type stand on a frame…

Has anyone found an engine stand that could support my reman (1967) F engine at the motor mounts, leaving the back end available to install flywheel, clutch, and transmission/transfer case? Is a one and a half ton cherry picker going to be sufficient to hoist in/out the complete old/new FJ engine and transmission packages?

I can’t quite work out the sequence in my mind of how to shuffle 2 complete Engine and transmission packages with one cherry picker, and one engine stand. If I use the cherry picker to take the new engine off the stand to install the clutch, flywheel, transmission, I need a place to set the new engine and transmission components down once assembled. They won’t fit back on the stand. Is there some kind of stand where I can sit down and move a complete new engine and transmission package? Do I need two types of engine stands? Do I need two cherry pickers?

Can somebody who has been through this kind of swap walk me through the major steps using hoist and stands? The general plan is to put the old engine, transmission, and transfer case on pallets on the floor with wood blocks, either side of the oil pan to stabilize the sub assembly.

 

[B y r o n]

This might be your easiest solution.

 

[Mark Jennings]

A wooden rack. A lot of us have cobbled together temporary mounts during engine swaps…..and if all else fails an old tire

 

[Skreddy]

The flywheel and clutch goes on after the bellhousing so you can’t put it back on the stand anyway so a cart is best option (or set it on the floor with a rag under oil pan and a 4x4 under harmonic balancer).
I would NOT hang it back on the engine stand by the transmission mounting ends of the bellhousing.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I use an A frame to pull/install engine, tranny & transfer in one piece. Have done it several times by myself. Tie the hood all the way open. Take off the fenders, pull the radiator and the front seats plus the floor pan and skid plate. Take off the starter. Undo all the wires and mark them. Take off the header/intake. Lift and roll the truck back lift more, tilt, lift, roll back. I once dropped the tranny and/transfer to do the clutch - I spent several hours trying to put them back in - gave up' pulled the engine, installed the T/T and put the assembly back in like 1.5 hours. Start to finish in like 3 hours to do the one piece removal.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

This might be your easiest solution.

View attachment 3695871

Thank you. I really like this. Found the plans at the link. I think this is the way to go. Thanks again.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

A wooden rack. A lot of us have cobbled together temporary mounts during engine swaps…..and if all else fails an old tireView attachment 3695968

Thanks for this, it really helps me visualize what I need to do. Does the front of the oil pan rest on the towel?

 

[POPO AGIE]

I dropped the transmission and transfer case before I ever pulled the motor about 25 years ago.

When I did pull the motor it was after I had removed the bell housing, clutch and flywheel.

When I put the new R2.8 in I had the 2F bell housing and gearboxes attached with the new motor on the pallet it was shipped on and had the transmission sitting on a transmission jack and picked everything up with the engine hoist. Rolled it into the frame and set on the new motor mounts and used a HD transmission jack to lift the transfer case up to get the rear motor mounts on the bell housing bolted up.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

The flywheel and clutch goes on after the bellhousing so you can’t put it back on the stand anyway so a cart is best option (or set it on the floor with a rag under oil pan and a 4x4 under harmonic balancer).
I would NOT hang it back on the engine stand by the transmission mounting ends of the bellhousing.

Thank you. Have a bellhousing ready to go as well.
Yeah, once that block comes off the engine stand, it ain’t going back on.

Need to build a cart with supports big enough for tranny and t case to be attached as well.

 

[brian]

I pulled an f, bellhousing, clutch, 4spd/transfer with a red version of that engine hoist...I darn near killed myself doing so. It's too much weight too far forward of where that hoist wants it to be.
Bring friends if your going to attempt it.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

I use an A frame to pull/install engine, tranny & transfer in one piece. Have done it several times by myself. Tie the hood all the way open. Take off the fenders, pull the radiator and the front seats plus the floor pan and skid plate. Take off the starter. Undo all the wires and mark them. Take off the header/intake. Lift and roll the truck back lift more, tilt, lift, roll back. I once dropped the tranny and/transfer to do the clutch - I spent several hours trying to put them back in - gave up' pulled the engine, installed the T/T and put the assembly back in like 1.5 hours. Start to finish in like 3 hours to do the one piece removal.

Thanks for this… that’s a great collection of process and content to mine. Thanks for validating that pulling engine/trans/tcase as a unit is the way to go, as well.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

I pulled an f, bellhousing, clutch, 4spd/transfer with a red version of that engine hoist...I darn near killed myself doing so. It's too much weight too far forward of where that hoist wants it to be.
Bring friends if your going to attempt it.

I am definitely going to have a couple full sized friends on hand when we remove the old powertrain as well as when we put the new one in.

I will be sure to extend the bottom legs on the hoist to maximum length. It’s supposed to be rated to 3000 lb… but I worried about how scary it could get.

 

[brian]

It's not the weight, it's where the weight is compared to the stability triangle of the hoist.

 

[Skreddy]

I’ve found one of the levelers can help and you position it to pick from pretty far back. Or, using a chain on the lifting hooks and a shackle through a further back link in the chain to balance it.

I’ve pulled at least a dozen cruiser drive trains and if done it all as one or trans/t-case separate. I’ve had them go easy or fight me either way unless the body is off (at least front fenders/bib) then the whole thing at once is the only way to go.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Thanks for this, it really helps me visualize what I need to do. Does the front of the oil pan rest on the towel?

Yep. The pan is a pretty sturdy hunk of sheet metal. Since the pan was powder coated, and my wife refused to give her feather pillow, the bar towel had to do.

 

[Green Bean]

I'm probably wrong on this, but I thought that I remembered reading that the whole enchilada (motor, 4-speed transmission and t-case) won't come out or go in as a unit IF it has the vacuum actuated 4WD is attached. I'm unable to verify but I know the clearance is very tight. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong on this.

 

[charliemeyer007]

No clue about the vac question. I have only worked with the F/2F 3 speed tranny with manual shift transfer. Removing the starter makes it much easier to shoe horn in the unit. Oh and I just tilt the bib down.

 

[cstav86]

I did something like this

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

I did something like this

View attachment 3696734

View attachment 3696735

View attachment 3696736

I'm probably wrong on this, but I thought that I remembered reading that the whole enchilada (motor, 4-speed transmission and t-case) won't come out or go in as a unit IF it has the vacuum actuated 4WD is attached.

It is a 1967 3 speed converted to floor shift. I think the tcase is a vacuum unit. I will find out in a few weeks when it is time to pull the old “enchilada” out.

I will be sure to take pictures to share for entertainment.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

It looks like I will be building a wooden stand on a pallet base for the engine/trans/t-case so I can move it with the tractor loader or put it on a moving dolly. Big thanks to all who showed different home fabbed stands. Let’s me see where i can put supports.

I will share pictures as I get the stand built and as the project moves forward. I am certain I will need more advice and input. Again, tremendous thanks to the community for the help.