2001LC
SILVER Star
R&R = remove & replace (in above case) or remove & repair or remove & restore.
Stalling not just in High, Hot, & Heavy
- Thread starter Pskhaat
- Start date
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there are more complicated and invasive ways but this is easiest. Other pump resistors on other makes and models might place it somewhere else or a different alignment altogether. Ours is on the ground wire.
something like this is fine. (not the green one) You could just jam a wire in the female plug also. I don't mind too much exposed grounds which is what it would be with any metal exposed on the wire.
For bumpy ride I'd zip tie the loose end with the female connector on it and stick a single wire in the female end.
Proper way is a male dummy plug with a loop in it. To make that it'd probably cost 20$ shipping included.
I have only driven around town 3 days in a row without the resistor plugged. YMMV. I didn't check to see if anything in the fuse box was warm either for those 3 days.
very interesting what you did with aftermarket resistors. It's a good idea because of the weaker pumps on 06/07 which is definitely one of my fears, running the pump full speed all the time and having it wear out at 13,000ft and having a very expensive recovery bill.
those were daytime running relay tester set ups.
I was just showing the jumper with male terminals for example.
You'd need a big resistor to replace the fuel pump item. Probably 1 ohm and I don't know how many watts, a lot.
A new one would come with the connector anyway for probably 70usd so it wouldn't make a ton of sense to try others for less money.
I was just showing the jumper with male terminals for example.
You'd need a big resistor to replace the fuel pump item. Probably 1 ohm and I don't know how many watts, a lot.
A new one would come with the connector anyway for probably 70usd so it wouldn't make a ton of sense to try others for less money.
2001LC
SILVER Star
06-07 fuel pump failure, corrects itself once cooled down. So not likely "having it wear out at 13,000ft and having a very expensive recovery bill"
IIRC Your issue, first started with addition of air pump bracket. Remove bracket and see if issue clears up some or completely. If so just try putting more space between bracket and resistor. Or reposition resistor, as you did on one test. Just make sure it's not bouncing around and you have greater than 2" air space and not next to a heat source.
ok, sounds good it is securely mounted in the airbox and not close to anything. We had just filled up on ethanol free gas but as soon as we run out we are going to try to run regular gas.
2001LC
SILVER Star
"in" air box. Interesting!
Good news guys, were on our second tank of regular gas and no stalling yet!!! though there hasn't been a super hot day to really test it, but a couple of the days last week i was sure it would have turned off without the relocation, Because it has happened even when snow wheeling.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Please post picture(S) of where & how mounted?
ok, I will get on that as soon as I'm home later.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Always has air flow. NICE Job!
2001LC
SILVER Star
Should see some high OATs in the 80F to 90F later this week. Should be a good test of your fuel pump resistor placement. Then late next month (June) we should see high 90F OAT with summer sun, the acid test heat and sun.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Is your concern heat igniting (fire) paper element....YIKES.
I'm going to start measure the resistor as they sit (factory position) with IR temp gun. Since sit just a few inch below the hood skin/paint. IDK, but would think we'd see paint damage, if it heat sink radiant excessive.
hello, just here to update you guys. With more ethanol being added to our gas as we speak, Eddie (my land cruisers name) ahs his work cut out for him. We took a trip up to 10,006ft last weekend on normal 85octane gas and everything went as planned, the trail is moderate and we were in low with high-ish engine revs all the way up, Along with airing up a set of 31's 2 sets of 33's and our 35's (car idling the whole time) at around 8,800ft.
if this does get turned into,
I need a new oem resistor.
Realize that today there are better resistors.
Resistors are suppose to get hot, hotter than 140F
The purpose of it is the quiet the cabin and possibly extend pump life (unprovable)
If it tests out of spec you should get a new one or delete it.
The mate connector is yaz 7282-7021-10 there aren't any in the country. I'm waiting on 5 of them.
thread related, you should test it and get a new one, bigger if you don't want it to get hot.
this is whole nother can of worms unless you really test amps/volts on your fuel pump, pump age etc etc volume at said lower power, fpr, on and on.
I need a new oem resistor.
Realize that today there are better resistors.
Resistors are suppose to get hot, hotter than 140F
The purpose of it is the quiet the cabin and possibly extend pump life (unprovable)
If it tests out of spec you should get a new one or delete it.
The mate connector is yaz 7282-7021-10 there aren't any in the country. I'm waiting on 5 of them.
thread related, you should test it and get a new one, bigger if you don't want it to get hot.
this is whole nother can of worms unless you really test amps/volts on your fuel pump, pump age etc etc volume at said lower power, fpr, on and on.
