sst tool for rear axle rebuild

[BURGER]

Does anyone have or know where to get a sst for a rear full float axle to set bearing preload. I live in vancouver canada and am hoping to do it this weekend. If anyone has one I can rent/borrow locally that would be awesome. I can make one but I dont know how I would get the right preload.

I have also heard that a dana 60/70 axle socket will work also but am not sure

 

[-Spike-]

Make it using a large socket as your starting point. That allows you to use a torque wrench. IIRC I cut 3 slots in a big socket, socket was under $15 at Ace Hardware and took all of about 20 minutes to modify. Take care to get the slots cut so they interface the nut equally.

-Spike

 

[Rookie2]

I can make one but I dont know how I would get the right preload.

Don't quite follow you there. If you make a tool and it fits in the lock nut holes properly, setting the preload procedure is the same as if you had the actual tool. There was a thread a while back where a blok made one with a old AC idler pulley... drilled some holes in the pulley and ran some threaded bolts through the holes and locked them in place by running some nuts down the bolts and tightening them to the pulley. The exact dimensions of the "prongs" and the diameter they are set on, are floating around here somewhere also.

Make it using a large socket as your starting point. That allows you to use a torque wrench. IIRC I cut 3 slots in a big socket, socket was under $15 at Ace Hardware and took all of about 20 minutes to modify. Take care to get the slots cut so they interface the nut equally.

-Spike

I wouldn't mind seeing a picture of that bad boy, as I can't quite visualize what you're saying with the three slot thing.


Rookie2

 

[-Spike-]

Taken with my webcam. The one on the left is for the FF rear axle in the 80 Series, and the one on the right is for a 2nd gen. 4Runner. I made the 4Runner one first, and hadn't thought to make it out of a socket to begin with- it has a nut welded on the bottom, which you put a socket on, and then a torque wrench- not very efficient. Cost less- made with a plumbing fitting, nut, round stock and a small piece of plate, but quite labor intensive with all the welding and grinding. The socket was much easier, and could be made in the same fashion as the other with nubs instead of slots if you wished, although that would require either welding or a lot of grinding.

Socket is a 2" twelve point.

-Spike

 

[Rookie2]

Ahh... nice work. I see now. So you're actually cupping the screw heads on the special lock nut, instead of a pronged version that inserts into the holes of the lock nut? Haven't thought of it that way.


Rookie2

 

[-Spike-]

IIRC they weren't 'screws', but I think you've got the idea. I never figured out what they were exactly, did I miss some adjustable thingamajig? There were the standard phillips lock screws, removed via impact screwdriver. Once the lock screws were out, the locknut came off by hand. Never having seen the SST or an FSM I assumed that the nubs on the locknut were meant to interface the SST.

-Spike

 

[Bear80]

Be careful with "standard phillips lock screws" there Spike. Nothing on Toyotas are standard phillips, they are Japanese spec phillips. If you try and use a standard phillips on these screws you run the risk of rounding them out. But a large phillips head will get the job done if you're careful. Here's a link I think Landtank put up a while back. http://www.katun.com/products/toolsjis.html
In the past, I've gotten my screw drivers from my local dealer since I'm in good with them, but I've never seen them in a store.

Anyway, for the SST, the standard dana 70 axle nut socket will work. Autozone has a loaner you can use or any auto parts store carries it. Here it is: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...E|~NONE|~NONE|~NONE|~1.85|~NONE|~B|~GRN|~true

I used it on two rear axle rebuilds with no problems.

 

[cruiserdan]

Here is a real one.

This is a "real" real one. this is a Japanese tool. The current factory SST's are made in the US and are a black oxide finish.

 

[landtank]

nice Dan, you just take that out of it's glass cabinet for that pic?

 

[cruiserdan]

No, out of my trail bag.

 

[turbocruiser]

No, out of my trail bag.

Which sits squarely in that thar glass cabinet - right by all the anniversary edition Keystone Light commemorative cans!!!

 

[medtro]

1 of the pins on mine was broken because of rust , so I had all the pins spot welded.

You can see the rust between the base and the pins in Dan's pic.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Hmm, that looks strangely like the thing sitting on my workbench that says "return to Scott" Whups...

DougM

 

[-Spike-]

C'mon now, someone has to tell me what those nubs are for. Pretty please?

-Spike

 

[Rich]

C'mon now, someone has to tell me what those nubs are for...

Same purpose as the 2 pins on your plumbing coupler.

 

[BURGER]

Thanks for the responses guys. Looks like I will try the dana 70 axle nut socket first.

 

[concretejungle]

I just did this a couple of weeks ago. Went to autozone as someone suggested a while back on the board and picked up the sst for dana 60 front axle bearing preload. It does not fit nearly as well as the proper tool like cdan shows. But it works. Cost $17USD but it's all refunded when you turn it back in.

 

[-Spike-]

Same purpose as the 2 pins on your plumbing coupler.

Not the nubs on the tool, the nubs on the locknut.

-Spike

 

[concretejungle]

also i should add.....from experiance...go ahead and get an impact driver. You will need it to break free a stubborn brass screw or two.

 

[Rookie2]

also i should add.....from experiance...go ahead and get an impact driver. You will need it to break free a stubborn brass screw or two.

FYI, if you're in the Craftsman Club thing, they're on sale for $14.99 through Saturday. I just bought one a couple of days ago. I'm wonder if you could also use it to break small nuts loose. Might try it on some rusted O2 sensor nuts this weekend.


Rookie2