What are people using to get the crankshaft pulley off? I want to swap the timing gear cover gasket. FSM shows a SST which I can probably jury rig in the garage.
SST alternatives for Crank Shaft Pulley removal?
- Thread starter Randy88FJ62
- Start date
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Save yourself a lot of grief and time and just get a 3/4" impact wrench- and a compressor that can push it.
Or struggle doing it the cave man way.
Or struggle doing it the cave man way.
If you want to use an impact wrench, you'll have to remove the radiator. Otherwise it won't fit. I used the breaker bar and starter bump method to remove the nut. Radiator removal not necessary. Nut came right off. Then a puller to remove the pulley. Don't use a puller with jaws that pull on the lip of the pulley, however...that type can damage the pulley and stress the rivets that hold the pulley to the harmonic balancer. Use a puller like this that threads into the HB:
The nut or the pulley or both?
If you've already got the nut off, the tool above is all you need. Harbor Freight sells a cheap one that works fine, too, with an assortment of metric bolts.
Don't use a puller that grabs the outer edge, you'll bent the pulley.
If you've already got the nut off, the tool above is all you need. Harbor Freight sells a cheap one that works fine, too, with an assortment of metric bolts.
Don't use a puller that grabs the outer edge, you'll bent the pulley.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
The one that looks like a crows foot works too. I rented it from Advance and it worked fine tho I had to pick up 3” bolts from Ace cuz the kit only comes w/ 2 or 4”.
But get the nut off w/ a length of 5’ pipe on your wrench handle. Second time I pulled my pulley it just slid off by hand.
But get the nut off w/ a length of 5’ pipe on your wrench handle. Second time I pulled my pulley it just slid off by hand.
- Thread starter
- #6
Is there a special puller or tool to re-install the pulley? A friend said he has one that re-installs without having to hit it with a hammer.
No. It's a slip-fit as long as the snout/keyway on the crank is all good. Clean it well and maybe go over it with a fine scotch brite.
- Thread starter
- #8
thanks!
I used a standard 3 jaw puller on 2 different 3Bs in the last month with no issue.
I wanted to revive this very helpful thread as I just finished doing the front crank and timing cover seals. I was leery of the starter bump method— I’m a noob and my breaker bar was too long to fit well against the frame. I also knew I’d have to tighten it eventually and suggested methods required two people if you didn’t have a tool.
So I set out to try and recreate the SST mentioned in the FSM for a reasonable price.
If I had fab tools and a welder it would have been easy but I’m working out of my condo parking lot with no garage. Bless my neighbors’ souls for not complaining.
I ordered an OTC 4754 universal pulley holder that worked like a charm. I found reviews and pictures that confirmed it was very beefy.
I didn’t use the included pins as people had mentioned those bending on tough jobs but m8 bolts fit through the holes no problem. The ones I bought were 30mm long— too long but still worked. I did have to massage the arms with a grinder to clear the hub.
It was nerve racking when the HB bolt started to crack because I couldn’t tell if it was the tool or bolts bending or not. Bolt cracked like a charm though!
I used a crows foot style harmonic balancer puller I borrowed from Advance Auto plus 3 40mm m8-1.25 bolts I picked up.
So I set out to try and recreate the SST mentioned in the FSM for a reasonable price.
If I had fab tools and a welder it would have been easy but I’m working out of my condo parking lot with no garage. Bless my neighbors’ souls for not complaining.
I ordered an OTC 4754 universal pulley holder that worked like a charm. I found reviews and pictures that confirmed it was very beefy.
I didn’t use the included pins as people had mentioned those bending on tough jobs but m8 bolts fit through the holes no problem. The ones I bought were 30mm long— too long but still worked. I did have to massage the arms with a grinder to clear the hub.
It was nerve racking when the HB bolt started to crack because I couldn’t tell if it was the tool or bolts bending or not. Bolt cracked like a charm though!
I used a crows foot style harmonic balancer puller I borrowed from Advance Auto plus 3 40mm m8-1.25 bolts I picked up.
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I bought the OTC tool and ground it down as you suggested. Used the starter bump to loosen the nut and the modified tool to put it back on. This works great if you don’t have the capability to weld and fab your own tool. Thanks for sharing!
Since I did the thermostat at the same time, I used the old thermostat housing bolts to secure the tool to the harmonic balancer. I did bend the bolts a bit when torque-ing the nut. It’s good to replace those thermostat housing bolts anyway.
Since I did the thermostat at the same time, I used the old thermostat housing bolts to secure the tool to the harmonic balancer. I did bend the bolts a bit when torque-ing the nut. It’s good to replace those thermostat housing bolts anyway.
For pulley nut removal, I had not yet bought the tool above and was trying the starter bump method. I was a bit nervous about this method but it seemed a lot of folks were successful and I didn’t end up breaking anything either.
Make sure your battery is charged, mine was a bit weak as I had not driven the truck for a couple weeks after starting this project and slowly working on it. I used a 2x4 between the 3/4” socket wrench head and the radiator to make sure the wrench wouldn’t fall off the nut. I tried securing the wrench handle to the frame at first but was unable to break the nut loose. So I gave the wrench a little space to move and then hit the frame as some suggested and this broke it free after 2 bumps.
Make sure your battery is charged, mine was a bit weak as I had not driven the truck for a couple weeks after starting this project and slowly working on it. I used a 2x4 between the 3/4” socket wrench head and the radiator to make sure the wrench wouldn’t fall off the nut. I tried securing the wrench handle to the frame at first but was unable to break the nut loose. So I gave the wrench a little space to move and then hit the frame as some suggested and this broke it free after 2 bumps.
Ha... It’s a Tekton brand 1/2” torque wrench I got from Amazon for $60. Goes up to 250 ft lb. Then the yellow pipe cheater bar on the end of the pulley holder tool is from my jack.
Taking apart the front end was not fun, but after doing it once at least it should be a bit easier. I split the fan shroud while I was at it which made it much easier to get the fan back on.
Amazon product ASIN B00C5ZL1NS
