SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (19 Viewers)

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Does the power hatch require the limits reset after power disconnect like the windows do? Maybe opening it manually then trying to close it automatically can reset things?

Or are you saying it doesn't even unlatch to be opened manually?
 
Does the power hatch require the limits reset after power disconnect like the windows do? Maybe opening it manually then trying to close it automatically can reset things?

Or are you saying it doesn't even unlatch to be opened manually?
It wouldn't even unlatch to open manually. I was able to get it to work by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and then re-connecting it. I found an old thread that mentioned something about the lock not initializing when the new battery was installed. So-for future reference, if the hatch won't open, disconnect then re-connect the battery and it should work.
 
It wouldn't even unlatch to open manually. I was able to get it to work by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and then re-connecting it. I found an old thread that mentioned something about the lock not initializing when the new battery was installed. So-for future reference, if the hatch won't open, disconnect then re-connect the battery and it should work.
The easiest way to fix it is lock and unlock your doors. The hatch thinks it is still locked even if the SUV is unlocked.
 
My display says "Maintenance needed soon" but no indication of what maintenance is needed. Oil Change was just done and it shows about 9500 miles to go. The only other light on the dash is my TPMS, because they were dead when I bought the thing, and the maintenance message has only just started showing up. How can I tell what maintenance is needed?
 
My display says "Maintenance needed soon" but no indication of what maintenance is needed. Oil Change was just done and it shows about 9500 miles to go. The only other light on the dash is my TPMS, because they were dead when I bought the thing, and the maintenance message has only just started showing up. How can I tell what maintenance is needed?
That message is mostly a repetitive 5k mile reminder. It isn’t actually scanning something to be maintained. The reset procedure is to set your trip meter to trip A then turn truck off off. Then turn it on (without starting) while holding the trip meter button. You’ll see the dash start resetting the maintenance reminder. Hold the button until it says complete. This is going from memory, so I may have got some part of that wrong.

Also, I believe the general consensus is to change the oil closer to 5k miles rather than 10k, but you can decide what you think is best.
 
I am having spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, heater t and hoses, and coolant flushed.

Is four gallons of Toyota coolant enough?
 
I am having spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, heater t and hoses, and coolant flushed.

Is four gallons of Toyota coolant enough?
17.6 qts according to the FSM for 16+ LX570.


I'm not sure if it differs for other years.
 
I am having spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, heater t and hoses, and coolant flushed.

Is four gallons of Toyota coolant enough?
I only got 3 gallons out, and that included draining from the right (passenger) side block drain.
 
I only got 3 gallons out, and that included draining from the right (passenger) side block drain.
I haven't done this job yet but I'll ask, did you drain the driver's side of the block too? I understand it can be more difficulty so maybe an incomplete drain and fill more frequently is an alternative approach.
 
My display says "Maintenance needed soon" but no indication of what maintenance is needed. Oil Change was just done and it shows about 9500 miles to go. The only other light on the dash is my TPMS, because they were dead when I bought the thing, and the maintenance message has only just started showing up. How can I tell what maintenance is needed?
On the ‘16+, there is an oil change minder and a general maintenance minder. Both are reset using the driver display and menus with buttons on the steering wheel. What’s needed is in your owners manual, or if you don’t have one, on the Toyota owners web site using your VIN.
 
I haven't done this job yet but I'll ask, did you drain the driver's side of the block too? I understand it can be more difficulty so maybe an incomplete drain and fill more frequently is an alternative approach.
I tried in vain to reach the driver's side drain, it's just not possible. Or, at least I couldn't reach it with all my various tricks and tools. Then I had a vision of me somehow getting a wrench on it, and snapping it off, then I'd be really screwed. So I gave up.
 
161k. Noticed this puddle last night. Haven’t dropped the skid but I’m guessing the water pump is leaking. Definitely coolant on the front of the motor crusting up on the passengers side transfer case bash plate.

Anything else it might be? What’s the going rate for a water pump replacement? What else should I do while it’s apart aside from thermostat and maybe hoses?

IMG_5532.jpeg
 
161k. Noticed this puddle last night. Haven’t dropped the skid but I’m guessing the water pump is leaking. Definitely coolant on the front of the motor crusting up on the passengers side transfer case bash plate.

Anything else it might be? What’s the going rate for a water pump replacement? What else should I do while it’s apart aside from thermostat and maybe hoses?

View attachment 3722148
Serp belt, tensioner, idler?
 
Pray for it to be a hose…oh I forgot, you are a god.
Heh I’d prefer it be a hose but since mine were replaced at 76k miles when the radiator was done I feel like I can’t get that lucky.
 
Fan bearing bracket as well.
Thanks. Tensioner and belt was done maybe 50k miles ago. Idler too maybe, I can’t recall offhand but will check my maintenance notes. I know the fan bracket wasn’t though.
 
Thanks. Tensioner and belt was done maybe 50k miles ago. Idler too maybe, I can’t recall offhand but will check my maintenance notes. I know the fan bracket wasn’t though.
Yours may be fine but by 150k the bearings in mine were getting dry and gritty. With the amount you tow I'd put it on the list as a precaution.

I did do my fan clutch near 200k but there was no perceptible difference.
 
Yours may be fine but by 150k the bearings in mine were getting dry and gritty. With the amount you tow I'd put it on the list as a precaution.

I did do my fan clutch near 200k but there was no perceptible difference.
Noted. I skipped because according to the dealer there wasn’t really any labor savings to do it now and I’m already in for about $1200.

$950 for the water pump. Dealer wanted $250 for the thermostat. I gave them a WTF it’s 10 minutes of effort once the water pump is off, they swore it’s more labor, and after telling them I felt I was getting reamed and them not budging I caved because it’s not like I’m doing this myself in the future. Definitely not happy and much of the goodwill this dealer has earned in the past has been shot with the labor on the last couple repairs.
 
Noted. I skipped because according to the dealer there wasn’t really any labor savings to do it now and I’m already in for about $1200.

$950 for the water pump. Dealer wanted $250 for the thermostat. I gave them a WTF it’s 10 minutes of effort once the water pump is off, they swore it’s more labor, and after telling them I felt I was getting reamed and them not budging I caved because it’s not like I’m doing this myself in the future. Definitely not happy and much of the goodwill this dealer has earned in the past has been shot with the labor on the last couple repairs.
Sorry to hear about your water pump problem. Where is Ice T when you need him? “You shoulda had Car Shield…” Seriously, what exactly broke on the water pump? I remember a few years back when my mechanic had to replace my broken plastic BMW water pump, he showed it to me and by comparison, he picked up a used LC metal water pump and said “these last twice as long”. So at least you should never have to replace a water pump again. Maybe start saving up for a new head gasket?
 

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