SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (5 Viewers)

[linuxgod]

How often do mudders service their shocks? I have a OME Bp51. Shop recommended yearly service.

Slee told me they expect 75k out of BP51s, roughly. Might need service sooner or might go longer depending on how you use them. They said 75k isn’t a hard and fast “time to rebuild” but it’s common for them to not be dampening as well and a rebuild will help.

 

[Sandroad]

View attachment 3713655

Luckily I had some tape on me that I could rig something to hold it open while i used a trim tool to open the door, but my door release is on the fritz. Sounds like there’s a spring missing from the door? Any write up on this?

Also — in the last week, at lower speed with brakes applied, when I release the brake I’m getting almost a pinging noise from the pedal. Any insight on this?

Maybe a touch of grease needed on the pedal return mechanism?

 

[NDizzle]

Here's the conclusion to my issue last week.

I have these adjustable rear lower control arms. You are supposed to tighten this nut every other oil change. I didn't do that for about 5 years. End result is that one of them started backing out, and the forward/backward movement wore out the threads, until about 2 weeks ago when it "failed" and it gave way completely, and now slides back and forth freely, occasionally getting hung up somewhere and then 'breaking free' causing sudden shifts and jumps in alignment / etc. Ordered replacements, but I assume replacing and getting an alignment will cure things.

 

[reddog90]

I ordered new OEM headlight housings, Philips xtreme vision gen 2 HID bulbs and Philips 9011 HIR bulbs for my 2013. Should I have ordered new ballasts as well? Or anything else I missed for this? Thanks.

 

[bloc]

I ordered new OEM headlight housings, Philips xtreme vision gen 2 HID bulbs and Philips 9011 HIR bulbs for my 2013. Should I have ordered new ballasts as well? Or anything else I missed for this? Thanks.

I’m just over 200k on original ballasts with half of that being with those bulbs, no sign of reduced performance.

And you won’t be disappointed by the new housings and 9011s.. exactly what I’m running and very very happy with it.

 

[reddog90]

Alright I'm at 161k so I'll just run with originals. Thanks, this bulb combo was purchased based on your repeated recommendation.

 

[bloc]

Alright I'm at 161k so I'll just run with originals. Thanks, this bulb combo was purchased based on your repeated recommendation.

Yeah, safe to say I’m a fan.

Just a heads up.. the new housings will have all of the harnesses but the parking and turn signal bulbs won’t be there. I transferred mine over and tried to source replacements for the original Koito parts to refresh them but had trouble tracking them down without paying Toyota prices.

 

[reddog90]

Yeah, safe to say I’m a fan.

Just a heads up.. the new housings will have all of the harnesses but the parking and turn signal bulbs won’t be there. I transferred mine over and tried to source replacements for the original Koito parts to refresh them but had trouble tracking them down without paying Toyota prices.

Didn't think about those. That would be these two bulbs for each side right?

https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=9098115024&qty=2

https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=9913212050&qty=2

 

[thefourthdoctor]

Correct, that's where I ordered mine when I replaced my housings a few weeks ago

 

[wjcunningham3]

Since people are asking about rebuilding aftermarket versions - how long should a stock suspension be expected to last? I have a stock 2015 200 with 220k miles. The suspension appears to be stock.

I am used to sport car stiff suspensions and I am learning the difference between expected off-roader suspensions and aging systems.

 

[kcjaz]

Clearing codes with engine running:

I use ODB Fusion to monitor various engine PID points and also as a code reader. When I connect the OBD reader and app, it always warns me that connecting with the engine running could cause problems. As doing this is the whole point of the device, I've always just ignored that and assume the Lawyers required the warning.

When I go to clear codes, I get the same basic warning and it says its better/safer to clear codes with only the ignition on but the engine not running. I just went to clear a P0456 code and when I got the warning, I did shut the truck off and tried to clear the codes without the engine running but it didn't seem to work and it just kept trying to reconnect. I then just canceled out and started the truck back up to clear the codes with the engine running. But when the got back into the OBD Fusion app, the codes were cleared.

So, maybe it cleared the codes when I only had the ignition on and then glitched out on the connection or it cleared the codes the first time with the engine running. IDK. My long winded stupid question here is does clearing codes with engine running really risk damaging something? Do I really need to connect the OBD2 with just the ignition on when doing this?

 

[linuxgod]

Clearing codes with engine running:

I use ODB Fusion to monitor various engine PID points and also as a code reader. When I connect the OBD reader and app, it always warns me that connecting with the engine running could cause problems. As doing this is the whole point of the device, I've always just ignored that and assume the Lawyers required the warning.

When I go to clear codes, I get the same basic warning and it says its better/safer to clear codes with only the ignition on but the engine not running. I just went to clear a P0456 code and when I got the warning, I did shut the truck off and tried to clear the codes without the engine running but it didn't seem to work and it just kept trying to reconnect. I then just canceled out and started the truck back up to clear the codes with the engine running. But when the got back into the OBD Fusion app, the codes were cleared.

So, maybe it cleared the codes when I only had the ignition on and then glitched out on the connection or it cleared the codes the first time with the engine running. IDK. My long winded stupid question here is does clearing codes with engine running really risk damaging something? Do I really need to connect the OBD2 with just the ignition on when doing this?

I’ve never had an issue clearing codes while the engine is running. I only do it when parked though. I assume it’s mostly a CYA. You should be able to clear codes with the engine in the on position but not started though.

 

[TeCKis300]

Clearing codes with engine running:

I use ODB Fusion to monitor various engine PID points and also as a code reader. When I connect the OBD reader and app, it always warns me that connecting with the engine running could cause problems. As doing this is the whole point of the device, I've always just ignored that and assume the Lawyers required the warning.

When I go to clear codes, I get the same basic warning and it says its better/safer to clear codes with only the ignition on but the engine not running. I just went to clear a P0456 code and when I got the warning, I did shut the truck off and tried to clear the codes without the engine running but it didn't seem to work and it just kept trying to reconnect. I then just canceled out and started the truck back up to clear the codes with the engine running. But when the got back into the OBD Fusion app, the codes were cleared.

So, maybe it cleared the codes when I only had the ignition on and then glitched out on the connection or it cleared the codes the first time with the engine running. IDK. My long winded stupid question here is does clearing codes with engine running really risk damaging something? Do I really need to connect the OBD2 with just the ignition on when doing this?

It is CYA but there are some real risks. Reason being is it resets all the learned trim tables for fueling and ignition. If the engine is in disrepair, and has some off the wall trims to stay running, e.g. vacuum leak where it needs a lot of fueling compensation, resetting the trims may just stall the motor. That would be a bad thing on the freeway.

 

[hoser]

Here's the conclusion to my issue last week.

I have these adjustable rear lower control arms. You are supposed to tighten this nut every other oil change. I didn't do that for about 5 years. End result is that one of them started backing out, and the forward/backward movement wore out the threads, until about 2 weeks ago when it "failed" and it gave way completely, and now slides back and forth freely, occasionally getting hung up somewhere and then 'breaking free' causing sudden shifts and jumps in alignment / etc. Ordered replacements, but I assume replacing and getting an alignment will cure things.

This has happened to numerous people. I caution people about adjustable control arms unless they really need it. The main draw of the Land Cruiser is reliability and this makes LC's less reliable.

 

[Fisher23]

Clearing codes with engine running:

I use ODB Fusion to monitor various engine PID points and also as a code reader. When I connect the OBD reader and app, it always warns me that connecting with the engine running could cause problems. As doing this is the whole point of the device, I've always just ignored that and assume the Lawyers required the warning.

When I go to clear codes, I get the same basic warning and it says its better/safer to clear codes with only the ignition on but the engine not running. I just went to clear a P0456 code and when I got the warning, I did shut the truck off and tried to clear the codes without the engine running but it didn't seem to work and it just kept trying to reconnect. I then just canceled out and started the truck back up to clear the codes with the engine running. But when the got back into the OBD Fusion app, the codes were cleared.

So, maybe it cleared the codes when I only had the ignition on and then glitched out on the connection or it cleared the codes the first time with the engine running. IDK. My long winded stupid question here is does clearing codes with engine running really risk damaging something? Do I really need to connect the OBD2 with just the ignition on when doing this?

Like was said above .. some codes yes but not that slow leak code .. which I also get sometimes. No harm in clearing that one.
I think on mine it has something to do with the dual tanks.

 

[NDizzle]

This has happened to numerous people. I caution people about adjustable control arms unless they really need it. The main draw of the Land Cruiser is reliability and this makes LC's less reliable.

I wasn't able to find any threads on this. What do I need to search for? I'm lifted about 3" in the back.

 

[hoser]

@NDizzle Here's some but there are more. I wouldn't say it is common but if somebody wants to set it and forget it, maybe not the best choice. I do run JJ's on one of my cruisers. Another issue that happens is the through bolt/bolt joint can seize and then wallow out the control arm mounts. OE rubber bushings won't seize.

(After market) Rear upper control arm failure: Disassemble and check for play

Quick summary: if you have a lift kit on your car, you probably have adjustable rear upper control arms. I recommend taking them off and checking for play or thread wear. I found this out the hard way on Sunday. Things I will carry in the tool box from now on: hack saw blade, duct tape (I know...

forum.ih8mud.com

Rear Control Arm Options-Would like input of others who have changed from stock

I would like to read others input on what brand of REAR control arms they used, why, experiences, satisfaction, etc. I see different brands. Most seem to have Johnny Joints. Are these reliable? Or do they squeak if not constantly lubed? I tried searching but didn’t find much. Thank...

forum.ih8mud.com

mall damage lol

www.jkowners.com

 

[Capital E]

Battery died. I put in a new one and now the rear hatch won't open. It's on a 2018. I push the button on the key and get a long beep but nothing happens. Same result with the button on the dash. I searched a little but but kept getting to threads about manually opening the rear hatch with a dead battery. The battery is fully charged now but I still can't get the rear hatch open. Any ideas? TIA

 

[gasman4u]

Battery died. I put in a new one and now the rear hatch won't open. It's on a 2018. I push the button on the key and get a long beep but nothing happens. Same result with the button on the dash. I searched a little but but kept getting to threads about manually opening the rear hatch with a dead battery. The battery is fully charged now but I still can't get the rear hatch open. Any ideas? TIA

I hate to ask, but are you sure the “rear power door” or similar button has the little orange bit on top exposed? If not, the power hatch won’t function.

 

[Capital E]

I hate to ask, but are you sure the “rear power door” or similar button has the little orange bit on top exposed? If not, the power hatch won’t function.

This is SQOD so don't hesitate to ask. I did double/triple check the button and even read through the manual to see if I was missing something. The orange bit is exposed. I tried it both ways just for fun. I figure it has to be something simple I'm missing.