I’m looking to buy accumulator globes, any risk of knockoff parts if I buy from eBay? I know there are fake oil filters and stuff like that on Amazon but wanted to check if anyone knew the same issue was happening on accumulators.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
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32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
I purchased accumulators from jdp-planet.com directly from the website. They also have a eBay storefront. They are legit. Others have ordered it from them with positive experience. Also impex japan and have legit parts. I ordered and received parts from them as well.
Cheers, I’m seeing ones like the link below for $80usd lower but don’t want to buy fakes.
TOYOTA OEM LAND CRUISER 200 LEXUS LX570 LX450d Suspension Accumulator 4pcs Set | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for TOYOTA OEM LAND CRUISER 200 LEXUS LX570 LX450d Suspension Accumulator 4pcs Set at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
No one has figured out how to adjust the speedo. I just know that I'm going 5% faster than it says.
Going from stock to 33s for most folks the speed will actually be closer to accurate. It's typically under by a few mph.
There is a way to adjust the speedo, but it involves installing a canbus-enabled box and splicing some wires. I'd have to find the thread with the device. Even on 35s I just mentally account for the 5mph difference.
UPR LC
GOLD Star
Longer studs will not be a failure point assuming you install studs of the same diameter and material strength as the originals. More thread engagement for the lug will reduce the chance of thread tear-out.
If your wheel hub bore is similar to stock, then the wheel is hud centric which helps reduce the shear load on the lugs.
The lugs in theory are mostly/only in tension and the clamping force holding the wheel to the hub keeps the wheel in place, not the shear capacity of the lugs. If the lug nuts loosen, then the studs will need to take shear loading and could lead to failure especially if the wheel hub bore is larger than stock.
That is my understanding.
I'm trying to get to the filter for the charcoal canister after one has had a LRA tank installed.
I know it's behind the passenger wheel-well, next to the fuel filler neck and I need to remove the plastic cover. I have used the torx head to remove the crews holding the platic cover on, but it's still pretty firmly attached.
Is there a trick to removing it? Or are there clips on that plastic part that will release if I pull hard enough.
I figured it safer to ask here before applying too much force and breasking something.
I know it's behind the passenger wheel-well, next to the fuel filler neck and I need to remove the plastic cover. I have used the torx head to remove the crews holding the platic cover on, but it's still pretty firmly attached.
Is there a trick to removing it? Or are there clips on that plastic part that will release if I pull hard enough.
I figured it safer to ask here before applying too much force and breasking something.
It's likely these clips that are little boogers that put up a fight. If you pick them just right with the tool or a small plier, they will come right out. But it takes some familiarity with them. They're easily enough to replace if you choose to get savage with them.
Rexka 25pcs Fender Liner Clips Screw Grommet Retainer Compatible with Toyota 90189-06214 Tacoma Tundra https://a.co/d/aSLyn67
LvCruiserNewb
SILVER Star
For those with aftermarket bump stops: how in the hell did you remove the factory forward ones? Specifically the rear of the forward pair. I was able to twist off the front ones with a big channel locks, but the rear won't budge. My truck is a 2018 and lived its whole life in the desert and doesn't have an speck of rust anywhere. Are the factory bumps installed with permanent thread locker? I stopped short of putting a pipe wrench on them as someone else om here sheared one off I thought I read in a thread a bit back.
Monkey wrench and more leverage. Mine weren't bad but it's very possible they can get corroded as water tends to pool behind them.
LvCruiserNewb
SILVER Star
Ok I guess I'll try to be less of a wuss as the next step. It was at the end of a long day after installing BB sliders solo and I was in no mood to end the day by snapping anything so I gave up when it was taking a level of force that felt uncomfortable. I'll drop the front tires too and make sure I can get proper leverage as I was under the truck on my first attempt. Just in case I shot some PB Blaster in from the top to see if that helps any. Crossing my fingers that I don't end up in the "how do I drop my LCA so I can drill out a snapped bump stop stud" thread...
It was easy. I paid Slee to do it when they installed my lift.
If you have an impact gun that’s usually the best way to break stubborn bolts free. In my experience it’s far less likely to break one, and I’ve found a lot of stubborn bolts will come out just fine once you get past their initial installed torque.
I set up a Bluetooth OBDII dongle with phone app. On a dedicated view I have reported speed, 6% adjusted reported speed, and GPS speed. Did this to verify differential between reported and actual with 285/75/17 setup to get to real fuel consumption. It's not fancy like a speedo hack, but assuming plus 6% on speed becomes natural. And I have more range confidence when the tank gets low, which is compounded by never filling up fully.
In the jack storage cubby in the cargo area of our LC’s, there is a 2” hole going from the storage area to the undercarriage of the car.
See pic below.
I think because I have an extra set of wires running through that grommet, it’s wide open and letting too much dust in.
Does anybody have a good suggestion on how I could seal the hole up?
I am planning on simply using duct tape, but there has to be a more elegant solution.
See pic below.
I think because I have an extra set of wires running through that grommet, it’s wide open and letting too much dust in.
Does anybody have a good suggestion on how I could seal the hole up?
I am planning on simply using duct tape, but there has to be a more elegant solution.
I used Sugru.
Another product I did not know about.
But in looking it up, I would worry it would adhere to the hole and the wires too well - in case I needed to remove it.
It would be neat if they made a non-sticky Sugru. You would fill it into the open spaces and it firms up into a silicone plug that can be removed as needed.
Though…. I wonder if a silicon spray first and then mash in the Sugru and allow it to firm up. Perhaps that would prevent the Sugru from adhering.
Sugru isn’t that hard to remove from a smooth material like wire jacket. In this use case though I’d probably be poking a hole in it for another wire, and it would be pretty good for that.
