SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (10 Viewers)

[lx200inAR]

Thank you! Will do.

I read and reread the list of forums but “classifieds” does not show up here:

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forum.ih8mud.com

I should have searched more.

No worries...technically on Mud it's a separate section from the forums, so you have to get to it from the major menu at the top.

 

[relaxing]

“What’s that sound”
A light metal grinding/swishing sound coming from the wheels when I turn right at moderate speeds, or go over a bump. Doesn’t happen on left turns or when the turn is slow (less than 10 mph.) Not a squeak or a squeal, it sounds like metal rubbing metal.

I recently switched to 18” rims and a 32” height tire (from the stock 20” rim and 31” height.) But it’s possible the sound started before the switch and I just wasn’t paying attention. It’s also possible I botched the installation somehow.

 

[radman]

“What’s that sound”
A light metal grinding/swishing sound coming from the wheels when I turn right at moderate speeds, or go over a bump. Doesn’t happen on left turns or when the turn is slow (less than 10 mph.) Not a squeak or a squeal, it sounds like metal rubbing metal.

I recently switched to 18” rims and a 32” height tire (from the stock 20” rim and 31” height.) But it’s possible the sound started before the switch and I just wasn’t paying attention. It’s also possible I botched the installation somehow.

does it change when you apply the brakes? Have you checked your pads recently?
There's a "low pad" indicator that's a piece of metal to scrape the rotor.

 

[relaxing]

does it change when you apply the brakes? Have you checked your pads recently?
There's a "low pad" indicator that's a piece of metal to scrape the rotor.

It doesn’t happen when braking.

 

[empty80]

“What’s that sound”
A light metal grinding/swishing sound coming from the wheels when I turn right at moderate speeds, or go over a bump. Doesn’t happen on left turns or when the turn is slow (less than 10 mph.) Not a squeak or a squeal, it sounds like metal rubbing metal.

I recently switched to 18” rims and a 32” height tire (from the stock 20” rim and 31” height.) But it’s possible the sound started before the switch and I just wasn’t paying attention. It’s also possible I botched the installation somehow.

Is there a metal retaining clip that helps hold the hub cover in place that may have come loose and “floating” between the cap and hub?

 

[4literranger485]

I searched with no obvious hits. I drove to work today and my MID (multi information display) was just blank. I'm used to using it for monitoring remaining fuel miles and tire pressures. Anyone experienced this or have any tips?

 

[relaxing]

I searched with no obvious hits. I drove to work today and my MID (multi information display) was just blank. I'm used to using it for monitoring remaining fuel miles and tire pressures. Anyone experienced this or have any tips?

it’s not an issue of the brightness turned down?

 

[4literranger485]

it’s not an issue of the brightness turned down?

I certainly wouldn't rule that out. I did not know there was a way to adjust that only. I'll check on lunch break.

 

[Slow Paddler]

What device iare you guys using to keep the slop out of the hitch receiver? For eight years, I've used THIS style wedge device on my Outback, 4Runner, and 200 to tow an 850 pound Hiker squaredrop trailer. But now that I'm towing a 5000+ pound Oliver using an Andersen weight distribution hitch, I can't get it to stay tight. I've driven it in with a hammer and punch and tightened it way too tight, using removable thread-locker, and it still slips. So every time I start and stop, I get a heavy "clunk" as the hitch moves in the receiver.

With the LC's flush receiver, there's no room for one of the U-bolt style clamps. What are you using?
Thanks!

 

[elcie200]

What device iare you guys using to keep the slop out of the hitch receiver? For eight years, I've used THIS style wedge device on my Outback, 4Runner, and 200 to tow an 850 pound Hiker squaredrop trailer. But now that I'm towing a 5000+ pound Oliver using an Andersen weight distribution hitch, I can't get it to stay tight. I've driven it in with a hammer and punch and tightened it way too tight, using removable thread-locker, and it still slips. So every time I start and stop, I get a heavy "clunk" as the hitch moves in the receiver.

View attachment 3384062

With the LC's flush receiver, there's no room for one of the U-bolt style clamps. What are you using?
Thanks!

I don’t tow anything, just lugging around a couple of bikes; so I’m not sure if this would apply to your case. Just throwing it out there….

I use one of those threaded receiver pins: there’s a threaded metal plate/block that goes in the tube, that goes into the receiver; then a threaded pin goes thru both, essentially clamping the inner hitch tube to the receiver. No rattles etc.

Similar to this one.
Let's Go Aero (SHP2040-XL) Keyless Press-on Locking Silent Hitch Pin for 2.5in Hitches https://a.co/d/3BKZgrw

 

[Slow Paddler]

I use one of those threaded receiver pins: there’s a threaded metal plate/block that goes in the tube, that goes into the receiver; then a threaded pin goes thru both, essentially clamping the inner hitch tube to the receiver. No rattles etc.

Unfortunately, the Andersen hitch uses a solid bar, so something like this wouldn't work. I'm not sure it would even if hollow, as the movement I'm seeing is up and down more than side to side.

Thanks for the input!

 

[4literranger485]

it’s not an issue of the brightness turned down?

turned the car back on at lunch and it worked fine

 

[bryson]

What device iare you guys using to keep the slop out of the hitch receiver? For eight years, I've used THIS style wedge device on my Outback, 4Runner, and 200 to tow an 850 pound Hiker squaredrop trailer. But now that I'm towing a 5000+ pound Oliver using an Andersen weight distribution hitch, I can't get it to stay tight. I've driven it in with a hammer and punch and tightened it way too tight, using removable thread-locker, and it still slips. So every time I start and stop, I get a heavy "clunk" as the hitch moves in the receiver.

View attachment 3384062

With the LC's flush receiver, there's no room for one of the U-bolt style clamps. What are you using?
Thanks!

Due to the extra and different forces applied by the weight distributing hitch, I'd doubt there is any way to stop the slop with any of the gimmicky bolt-on pieces - at least not for very long. The only thing I can envision working would be a wedge built in to the hitch mount itself, but that would certainly require some fabrication to produce. Like this, but built into your existing WD hitch... The shaft being solid will certainly make that more difficult.

 

[MCtree]

turned the car back on at lunch and it worked fine

Did you have anything on the dash when it was dim?

I once threw a cap up on the dash and it covered the little light sensors and put everything into night-mode.
I was sure a fuse was blown or something.

 

[TeCKis300]

Unfortunately, the Andersen hitch uses a solid bar, so something like this wouldn't work. I'm not sure it would even if hollow, as the movement I'm seeing is up and down more than side to side.

Thanks for the input!

I would just put a couple beads of weld down on the Anderson stinger to tighten the slop. The advantage is not to ever have to deal with another piece of equipment when hitching. It might still make a tad of noise but should be way better. Interestingly, with my Equalizer hitch, the WD tension applied basically never allows it to move.

I realize that doesn't sound easy as I have my own welder to do so. If you can find the right shop and many have welders, it really is that easy and shouldn't be more than $100. There are mobile welding services too that will come to you but might be just a hair more expensive.

 

[Slow Paddler]

I would just put a couple beads of weld down on the Anderson stinger to tighten the slop. The advantage is not to ever have to deal with another piece of equipment when hitching. It might still make a tad of noise but should be way better. Interestingly, with my Equalizer hitch, the WD tension applied basically never allows it to move.

I realize that doesn't sound easy as I have my own welder to do so. If you can find the right shop and many have welders, it really is that easy and shouldn't be more than $100. There are mobile welding services too that will come to you but might be just a hair more expensive.

That could work! @bryson 's idea is pretty clever, but not really doable with the solid bar. The 1UP bike rack I have has a solid bar with a lengthwise screw and a large ball that takes up slack, but I don't have the facilities to do that. I do know a couple of guys with welders, though!

Thanks!

 

[Sandroad]

That could work! @bryson 's idea is pretty clever, but not really doable with the solid bar. The 1UP bike rack I have has a solid bar with a lengthwise screw and a large ball that takes up slack, but I don't have the facilities to do that. I do know a couple of guys with welders, though!

Thanks!

Are you running the hitch chains tight enough? On my setup with a trailer that's about 1K lbs lighter, the Andersen bar is very tightly in the top of the hitch as it does its lifting duties. I never get a clunk and to me that would indicate a WDH drawbar that is too loose for the trailer/tongue weight.

 

[Polecat]

What device iare you guys using to keep the slop out of the hitch receiver? For eight years, I've used THIS style wedge device on my Outback, 4Runner, and 200 to tow an 850 pound Hiker squaredrop trailer. But now that I'm towing a 5000+ pound Oliver using an Andersen weight distribution hitch, I can't get it to stay tight. I've driven it in with a hammer and punch and tightened it way too tight, using removable thread-locker, and it still slips. So every time I start and stop, I get a heavy "clunk" as the hitch moves in the receiver.

View attachment 3384062

With the LC's flush receiver, there's no room for one of the U-bolt style clamps. What are you using?
Thanks!

This obviously includes a nut and threaded pin that won’t with the solid shank of a WD hitch, but I’ve used it without the nut (just the pin and lock) with a WD hitch and it was tight enough to almost completely eliminate the slop.

No personal experience, but this is another decent option I found when I was researching options.

 

[Slow Paddler]

Are you running the hitch chains tight enough? On my setup with a trailer that's about 1K lbs lighter, the Andersen bar is very tightly in the top of the hitch as it does its lifting duties. I never get a clunk and to me that would indicate a WDH drawbar that is too loose for the trailer/tongue weight.

I think it is tight enough. I had it set to where the tech at Oliver set it when I picked up the trailer. But when we went to the Oliver Rally in May, a guy well respected in the community showed me that it needed to be quite a bit tighter.

But your comment made me realize that I've been using the above shown wedge wrong with the Andersen hitch. On all other applications, I had the wedge at the top of the receiver opening. But because the Andersen lifts the rear of the LC, I actually need to put it at the bottom! Then it might stay in place. At least for a while.

It might also be that the receiver cross hole, Andersen hitch cross hole, and locking pin are not a close fit. I can move the hitch in the receiver close to 1/8" forward and backward. So even if the WDH keeps the draw bar tight against the top, it can still slide. And this is when I'm getting the clunking; during braking and acceleration. Like a train coupling taking up slop.

I'll flip the wedge over for the trip we're going on next Thursday and see what happens.

 

[Sandroad]

I think it is tight enough. I had it set to where the tech at Oliver set it when I picked up the trailer. But when we went to the Oliver Rally in May, a guy well respected in the community showed me that it needed to be quite a bit tighter.

But your comment made me realize that I've been using the above shown wedge wrong with the Andersen hitch. On all other applications, I had the wedge at the top of the receiver opening. But because the Andersen lifts the rear of the LC, I actually need to put it at the bottom! Then it might stay in place. At least for a while.

It might also be that the receiver cross hole, Andersen hitch cross hole, and locking pin are not a close fit. I can move the hitch in the receiver close to 1/8" forward and backward. So even if the WDH keeps the draw bar tight against the top, it can still slide. And this is when I'm getting the clunking; during braking and acceleration. Like a train coupling taking up slop.

I'll flip the wedge over for the trip we're going on next Thursday and see what happens.

Good call on the loose fit of the hitch pin. 1/8" is enough to get a good clunk when pulling and pushing 4K lbs.