YellowJacket
SILVER Star
It’s almost like skid control kicks in if I’m accelerating into or out of a turn. Like it’s kicking in too easily or something.Sorry, but no idea what you are talking about...
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It’s almost like skid control kicks in if I’m accelerating into or out of a turn. Like it’s kicking in too easily or something.Sorry, but no idea what you are talking about...
It’s almost like skid control kicks in if I’m accelerating into or out of a turn. Like it’s kicking in too easily or something.
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Zero Point Calibration
forum.ih8mud.com
Have you performed a zero point calibration after suspension lift?
I have not had the issue in the LC, but when I lifted my Tacoma a long time ago, going into a turn too hard the anti-lock brakes would active and were sensitive. Once calibrated, everything went back to normal.
Yep, it looks like the lower pan seal to me. IIRC, it's not an actual gasket - just FIPG. Actually a really easy repair. Buy the right FIPG from Toyota, clean it up well and seal it back up. No need to remove anything other than any skid plates you might have to gain access.View attachment 3388440View attachment 3388441I’ve degreased this a few time and the seepage keeps coming back. Could this be the lower oil pan gasket? 175k miles and about to need an oil change so thinking it would be a good time to tackle it.
Getting close to pulling the trigger on F/R lockers and the cost to do ring and pinion gears is going to be pretty minimal since they'll already be in there, so I think I'm going to re-gear as well.
Can't decide between 4.30 and 4.88. I currently have 35's and plan to keep it that way. I'm honestly pretty fine with the stock gearing because I don't have a heavy build. I do occasionally tow, but I recently sold my trailer, so not a ton of towing in the immediate future. Sometimes I entertain dreams of going up to 37's, but being completely honest with myself, it's not likely any time soon. I also sometimes think about dedicated winter tires in more of a 32/33" size. That's not terribly likely either--I'm more likely going to stick with a 35 AT that's pretty decent in the snow and run that year round.
What says the hive mind? 4.30 or 4.88
I debated the same thing. Glad I went with the 4.88s. With 35s and the 6 speed trans, I have zero complaints. @70 mph I’m at 2200 rpm. With that said, my truck sees limited interstate time.Getting close to pulling the trigger on F/R lockers and the cost to do ring and pinion gears is going to be pretty minimal since they'll already be in there, so I think I'm going to re-gear as well.
Can't decide between 4.30 and 4.88. I currently have 35's and plan to keep it that way. I'm honestly pretty fine with the stock gearing because I don't have a heavy build. I do occasionally tow, but I recently sold my trailer, so not a ton of towing in the immediate future. Sometimes I entertain dreams of going up to 37's, but being completely honest with myself, it's not likely any time soon. I also sometimes think about dedicated winter tires in more of a 32/33" size. That's not terribly likely either--I'm more likely going to stick with a 35 AT that's pretty decent in the snow and run that year round.
What says the hive mind? 4.30 or 4.88
Do you want a lower crawl ratio for off-road? Do you tow? Do you see yourself cutting fenders or body lifting to fit 37s?Getting close to pulling the trigger on F/R lockers and the cost to do ring and pinion gears is going to be pretty minimal since they'll already be in there, so I think I'm going to re-gear as well.
Can't decide between 4.30 and 4.88. I currently have 35's and plan to keep it that way. I'm honestly pretty fine with the stock gearing because I don't have a heavy build. I do occasionally tow, but I recently sold my trailer, so not a ton of towing in the immediate future. Sometimes I entertain dreams of going up to 37's, but being completely honest with myself, it's not likely any time soon. I also sometimes think about dedicated winter tires in more of a 32/33" size. That's not terribly likely either--I'm more likely going to stick with a 35 AT that's pretty decent in the snow and run that year round.
What says the hive mind? 4.30 or 4.88
i pretty much NEVER use the lug wrench. I have a breaker bar with telescoping handle, and a deep socket of the correct size for the lug nuts. 22mm for my LX570My new to me 2016 does not have the toolkit in the tailgate. Am I correct that means I am missing just the lug wrench and the extensions/handle to lower the spare tire?
View attachment 3401280
Anybody have an extra laying around, or a pointer to a good used parts yard? Nothing on Ebay this morning.
Do you want a lower crawl ratio for off-road? Do you tow? Do you see yourself cutting fenders or body lifting to fit 37s?
If you’re happy with stock gearing and not going bigger than 35s I would suggest 4.30s. I have 4.88s and they’re peppy but they don’t help mileage on the highway if I’m doing 75-80, and I find when towing I spend a lot of time managing whether I’m in 4th or 5th gear to keep the torque converter locked up, whereas on stock gears and 34s I’d just leave it in 4th before
it's something to be aware of for sure. I don't notice an issue with 4.88/35" (on 6 speed). But I also didn't notice a shift point issue on 4.88/32" (6 speed). so if you're sensitive to this it could be a thing.There's a component to gearing that @nwfl4runner is touching on that we don't have any dials to adjust, and that is transmission tuning. It affects things like shift logic, shift quality, converter lockup, and probably more. Many of the major platforms like Taco's, Jeeps, and major trucks have this, including the ability to correct for tire size. The farther the overall gearing is deviated from stock, the more drivability will suffer. It's annoying as heck when down/up shifts feel like they're coordinated by monkeys, and shifts lose that factory refinement.
For 35s - 4.3s. It'll feel dialed like it was delivered from the factory that way. As someone towing on the upper end, there is zero concern that it is not enough gear and I have no want for 4.88s.
...until 37s come.
Keep checking eBay. That’s where those that were swiped from a vehicle that went through an auction will show up. And yes, there is just the jacking kit in the tailgate. The other side is empty.My new to me 2016 does not have the toolkit in the tailgate. Am I correct that means I am missing just the lug wrench and the extensions/handle to lower the spare tire?
View attachment 3401280
Anybody have an extra laying around, or a pointer to a good used parts yard? Nothing on Ebay this morning.
The only thing I don't like for 35" is the 65 mph autolower doesn't actually happen until around 72 mph real speed.
As far as I can tell AHC fluid is just a synthetic oil, so they should have no problem taking it.Is AHC fluid recyclable? My local center says that they can take gear oil, hydraulic oil, motor oil, power steering fluid and transmission fluid.
I'm assuming that AHC fluid is considered hydraulic oil?