YellowJacket
SILVER Star
It’s almost like skid control kicks in if I’m accelerating into or out of a turn. Like it’s kicking in too easily or something.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (7 Viewers)
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UPR LC
GOLD Star
Zero Point Calibration
forum.ih8mud.com
Have you performed a zero point calibration after suspension lift?
I have not had the issue in the LC, but when I lifted my Tacoma a long time ago, going into a turn too hard the anti-lock brakes would active and were sensitive. Once calibrated, everything went back to normal.
YellowJacket
SILVER Star
Zero Point Calibration
Have you performed a zero point calibration after suspension lift?
I have not had the issue in the LC, but when I lifted my Tacoma a long time ago, going into a turn too hard the anti-lock brakes would active and were sensitive. Once calibrated, everything went back to normal.
I think that’s what I had done recently.
Looking at your link, I did find this that jumped out at me.
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Yep, it looks like the lower pan seal to me. IIRC, it's not an actual gasket - just FIPG. Actually a really easy repair. Buy the right FIPG from Toyota, clean it up well and seal it back up. No need to remove anything other than any skid plates you might have to gain access.
My new to me 2016 does not have the toolkit in the tailgate. Am I correct that means I am missing just the lug wrench and the extensions/handle to lower the spare tire?
Anybody have an extra laying around, or a pointer to a good used parts yard? Nothing on Ebay this morning.
Anybody have an extra laying around, or a pointer to a good used parts yard? Nothing on Ebay this morning.
Getting close to pulling the trigger on F/R lockers and the cost to do ring and pinion gears is going to be pretty minimal since they'll already be in there, so I think I'm going to re-gear as well.
Can't decide between 4.30 and 4.88. I currently have 35's and plan to keep it that way. I'm honestly pretty fine with the stock gearing because I don't have a heavy build. I do occasionally tow, but I recently sold my trailer, so not a ton of towing in the immediate future. Sometimes I entertain dreams of going up to 37's, but being completely honest with myself, it's not likely any time soon. I also sometimes think about dedicated winter tires in more of a 32/33" size. That's not terribly likely either--I'm more likely going to stick with a 35 AT that's pretty decent in the snow and run that year round.
What says the hive mind? 4.30 or 4.88
Can't decide between 4.30 and 4.88. I currently have 35's and plan to keep it that way. I'm honestly pretty fine with the stock gearing because I don't have a heavy build. I do occasionally tow, but I recently sold my trailer, so not a ton of towing in the immediate future. Sometimes I entertain dreams of going up to 37's, but being completely honest with myself, it's not likely any time soon. I also sometimes think about dedicated winter tires in more of a 32/33" size. That's not terribly likely either--I'm more likely going to stick with a 35 AT that's pretty decent in the snow and run that year round.
What says the hive mind? 4.30 or 4.88
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
4.88s and 37s are great, but 4.88s on my street 32s drives funny. I find the shift points are all "wrong" but then again I may just be so used to how it drives on the 37s. Point being, if you're running smaller tires for any extended period of time, I might stay away from 4.88s. But we both know you'll join the 37s club, don't lie to yourself!!
TN LX570
SILVER Star
I debated the same thing. Glad I went with the 4.88s. With 35s and the 6 speed trans, I have zero complaints. @70 mph I’m at 2200 rpm. With that said, my truck sees limited interstate time.
I wouldn’t consider any tire less than a33” long term on 4.88 with the 6 speed. I did run a few hundred break-in miles on 275/65r18 it was hyper go-kart.
Do you want a lower crawl ratio for off-road? Do you tow? Do you see yourself cutting fenders or body lifting to fit 37s?
If you’re happy with stock gearing and not going bigger than 35s I would suggest 4.30s. I have 4.88s and they’re peppy but they don’t help mileage on the highway if I’m doing 75-80, and I find when towing I spend a lot of time managing whether I’m in 4th or 5th gear to keep the torque converter locked up, whereas on stock gears and 34s I’d just leave it in 4th before
i pretty much NEVER use the lug wrench. I have a breaker bar with telescoping handle, and a deep socket of the correct size for the lug nuts. 22mm for my LX570
You WILL need the crank handle for the bottle jack, though
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Lower crawl ration would be nice, but I could take it or leave it based on my experience with the big rig so far. I do occasionally tow a travel trailer. Yes, I can see myself doing a body lift for 37's down the road, but again, might just be a pipe dream.
There's a component to gearing that @nwfl4runner is touching on that we don't have any dials to adjust, and that is transmission tuning. It affects things like shift logic, shift quality, converter lockup, and probably more. Many of the major platforms like Taco's, Jeeps, and major trucks have this, including the ability to correct for tire size. The farther the overall gearing is deviated from stock, the more drivability will suffer. It's annoying as heck when down/up shifts feel like they're coordinated by monkeys, and shifts lose that factory refinement.
For 35s - 4.3s. It'll feel dialed like it was delivered from the factory that way. As someone towing on the upper end, there is zero concern that it is not enough gear and I have no want for 4.88s.
...until 37s come.
For 35s - 4.3s. It'll feel dialed like it was delivered from the factory that way. As someone towing on the upper end, there is zero concern that it is not enough gear and I have no want for 4.88s.
...until 37s come.
it's something to be aware of for sure. I don't notice an issue with 4.88/35" (on 6 speed). But I also didn't notice a shift point issue on 4.88/32" (6 speed). so if you're sensitive to this it could be a thing.
The only thing I don't like for 35" is the 65 mph autolower doesn't actually happen until around 72 mph real speed.
Keep checking eBay. That’s where those that were swiped from a vehicle that went through an auction will show up. And yes, there is just the jacking kit in the tailgate. The other side is empty.
True. Though this happens regardless of gearing as it is a function of tire size and wheel speed read by the ABS sensors. It would be nice to be able to adjust it.
On the flip side, I do like how AHC high can be maintained to 10% higher speeds with 35s.
terrapin
SILVER Star
Is AHC fluid recyclable? My local center says that they can take gear oil, hydraulic oil, motor oil, power steering fluid and transmission fluid.
I'm assuming that AHC fluid is considered hydraulic oil?
I'm assuming that AHC fluid is considered hydraulic oil?
As far as I can tell AHC fluid is just a synthetic oil, so they should have no problem taking it.
terrapin
SILVER Star
If you carefully pry up the little cover, you can stick a key or other flat, skinny object in the hole to allow you to shift out of Park with the motor off. Any vehicle with an automatic transmission has some variation of this.
