So, after 20 years of 100 ownership, how long does it take the new 200 owner to remember the rear latch is in the middle? Not happening here 
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Just reach for the "C" in "Cruiser" on the liftgate.So, after 20 years of 100 ownership, how long does it take the new 200 owner to remember the rear latch is in the middle? Not happening here
Ooh-Ooh, I know this one! (maybe). I had this sound coming from my parking brake. There are little washers/clips that keep the shoes in place. If they break off, the shoes will swing out under turning and scrape in the drum.
Thanks! Do you think there’s any danger if I keep driving it until I can get in at the brake place?
I initially purchased a product similar to what you had for towing a 5,500 lb. boat, but I also found that the unique hitch receiver on the 200 would not accommodate it.
I ended up buying the Trimax TAR300 Anti-Rattle In-Receiver Stabilizer (which also has a locking hitch bolt):
TAR300 - TRIMAX Locks
5/8" Anti-Rattle - Key Receiver Lock Hollow Core Locking Anti-Rattle Pin Anti-Wobble Key Receiver Lock Easily Adjust and Lock Receiver Pin For Tight, Quiet Fit Available in 2" Includes Installation Wrench Includes 2 Keys Install In Three Easy Steps Download Instructions: TAR300...
trimaxlocks.com
On first tow, I had to tighten it once, but I've not encountered any slop since that adjustment. I have a Y-frame trailer, so no WD hitch on my setup. I'm not sure if a WD hitch would affect this product's performance or not; something to consider before you buy it I suppose. Overall, it's been money well spent for me.
Not in my experience. In mine it just made that noise while turning. I think that it was just momentum making it swing out on a turn, making contact but not really being forced out enough to cause a significant braking action. YMMV!
I feel like I’m living in this thread lol. Ive noticed my LX seems slower to start. I think it’s probably the battery. I’ve owned it for 4+ years and the battery has never been changed. Started is 2yrs old, voltage when running w/full ac is 13.18v via obd, and 13.45 with a meter on the batt. Just looking for comparison to rule out the alternator before I buy an expensive battery.
12.5V when off
Drops to 8V during startup.
12.5V when off
Drops to 8V during startup.
Last edited:
get that battery load tested. should tell you quickly if you need a replacement.
Few questions
1) What RPM is the engine at with the above voltage? Idle or cruise?
2) Any extra or aftermarket electrical loads?
3) What year and miles?
It would also be useful to get a battery voltage reading with a voltmeter with engine off. It should read 12.6-12.8V to indicate a high state of charge.
I'll tell you I went through this recently with a legitimate alternator failure. A month earlier, I was getting engine cranks that didn't as energetic and chalked it up to lots of camping. Engine running voltage seemed low at idle ~13V, and at speed on freeway, ~13.1-13.2. A month later on a road trip, it got to a point that it was on its way out measure voltages under 13V. There's possibility your alternator is on the same path out. New alternator, even with significant 40-50A aftermarket loads, stays strong at ~13.3V almost always.
RTH: Alternator Suspect Voltage Output
forum.ih8mud.com
1. Idle 750-800Few questions
1) What RPM is the engine at with the above voltage? Idle or cruise?
2) Any extra or aftermarket electrical loads?
3) What year and miles?
It would also be useful to get a battery voltage reading with a voltmeter with engine off. It should read 12.6-12.8V to indicate a high state of charge.
I'll tell you I went through this recently with a legitimate alternator failure. A month earlier, I was getting engine cranks that didn't as energetic and chalked it up to lots of camping. Engine running voltage seemed low at idle ~13V, and at speed on freeway, ~13.1-13.2. A month later on a road trip, it got to a point that it was on its way out measure voltages under 13V. There's possibility your alternator is on the same path out. New alternator, even with significant 40-50A aftermarket loads, stays strong at ~13.3V almost always.
RTH: Alternator Suspect Voltage Output
2. Stock electrically
3. 2008 171K miles (I’ve owned since 108K, never changed alternator)
13.45V engine idling, meter directly on batt
12.5V engine off
Drops to 8V during startup
Thanks for the fast reply!
elcie200
SILVER Star
Big stupid question(s)
Investigating a rattle/clank in the rear. Notice the rear driver shock is loose (upper, wiggles laterally 1-2mm by hand)
I had a shop install OME Nitrocharger 61029 to replace a leaking Tough Dog shock; apparently they didn’t install the “lower upper” washer/cup; the one on the top side of the frame, that touches the frame.
Gonna try to rectify. My big dumb questions:
1. Anyone know the shaft side (upper) nut size for a OME Nitrocharger 61029? (I need to go find a wrench, my kit does not have a big enough wrench.)
2. I want to resolve this loose shock. How bad is it to drive with the rattle?
Investigating a rattle/clank in the rear. Notice the rear driver shock is loose (upper, wiggles laterally 1-2mm by hand)
I had a shop install OME Nitrocharger 61029 to replace a leaking Tough Dog shock; apparently they didn’t install the “lower upper” washer/cup; the one on the top side of the frame, that touches the frame.
Gonna try to rectify. My big dumb questions:
1. Anyone know the shaft side (upper) nut size for a OME Nitrocharger 61029? (I need to go find a wrench, my kit does not have a big enough wrench.)
2. I want to resolve this loose shock. How bad is it to drive with the rattle?
gaijin
GOLD Star
According to the instructions for my Midtronic battery tester, Voltage at startup should be above 9.6V.
At 8V it looks like you may have a bad battery.
HTH
I assumed the earlier reading was via OBD?
-13.45V at the battery sounds healthy
-8V at startup sounds low
12.5V is somewhat okay. Tad low but okay if ignition is on with engine off
Maybe a developing situation. Battery could be slightly sulfated with some pattern of undercharging, hence the low voltage on start.
Keep an eye on things.
Thanks for the tips! I ended up replacing the battery and am getting a good 13.5V at the batt at idle. I’ll monitor for awhile to make sure the alternator isn’t going. But I reckon that battery was 5+ years old lol
Slow Paddler
SILVER Star
Thanks for the suggestion. But the Andersen hitch draw bar is solid, so this style wouldn’t work for me.
I have a stupid simple question: How can you tell if AHC globes are bad? I notice my LX seems to shake subtly for 2-3 seconds after going over any small bumps/cracks in the road. I handles very well over bigger stuff like pot-holes and speed bumps.
My situation is that I bought my 2017 (80,000 miles) last November and it came with used blizzaks on 20" rims with 0 offset. I honestly didn't pay close attention to ride quality since it was so new to me and so nice and comfy in many other ways. I did an AHC flush in December as I had no record of that being done previously and replaced the blizzaks with 34" Falken AT3s on 18" tundra rims in February (35 PSI). AHC works as it should, L-N-H and the AVS modes are noticeably different. As I've been reading more on here, I think I am noticing the shaking more and more, especially around town (crappy roads in my town).
It's strange that my other cars have more worn out suspension and are less comfortable overall (louder, harsher over bumps, etc.) but the LX feels as though it is shaking most of the time on city streets. It smooths out more on the highway. In 7,000 miles on the new tires, I haven't noticed any irregular wear and it tracks straight but I'm wondering if this is a globe problem or suspension bushing problem.
There are no wet spots on any of the globes, lines or dampers.
Or is this just the liability of bigger, heavier, stiffer tires?
My situation is that I bought my 2017 (80,000 miles) last November and it came with used blizzaks on 20" rims with 0 offset. I honestly didn't pay close attention to ride quality since it was so new to me and so nice and comfy in many other ways. I did an AHC flush in December as I had no record of that being done previously and replaced the blizzaks with 34" Falken AT3s on 18" tundra rims in February (35 PSI). AHC works as it should, L-N-H and the AVS modes are noticeably different. As I've been reading more on here, I think I am noticing the shaking more and more, especially around town (crappy roads in my town).
It's strange that my other cars have more worn out suspension and are less comfortable overall (louder, harsher over bumps, etc.) but the LX feels as though it is shaking most of the time on city streets. It smooths out more on the highway. In 7,000 miles on the new tires, I haven't noticed any irregular wear and it tracks straight but I'm wondering if this is a globe problem or suspension bushing problem.
There are no wet spots on any of the globes, lines or dampers.
Or is this just the liability of bigger, heavier, stiffer tires?
Try a few more psi, like 38.
YellowJacket
SILVER Star
Here’s one of mine…
Is it normal for ______ to engage when you accelerate through a turn? Especially when it’s not a flat surface?
Is it normal for ______ to engage when you accelerate through a turn? Especially when it’s not a flat surface?
gaijin
GOLD Star
Sorry, but no idea what you are talking about...
