SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (6 Viewers)

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Sounds like a plan. I have a big wire (6ga maybe) back to a blue sea distribution box in the rear cargo area. Seems like it would be cheap and easy to add. I'll poke around with a search to see what others here have used for products. Thanks, all.
Would be interested in what you find for a recommended pure sine wave inverter.
 
FYI 8ga will handle 40A (500W) without any issues at that distance. 10ga might be ok depending on distance but I’d need to check.

If the above link doesn't work, google "Bluesea Wire Chart" and there is a great DIY and chart for selecting wire size based on amps. Just remember that the length of the circuit includes both positive and negative cable lengths, so if you are running a circuit to and from the battery (non-local ground) then you double the cable length to determine wire size.
 
Yes 8 will handle 40amp up to 19 foot, but 6 is better.
This is a chart I use, Sometimes I will run 2 wires same guage, such as two 10 guage if I don't have any 8 guage depending on what I have in my garage.

WIRE-SIZE-AMPS.JPG
 

If the above link doesn't work, google "Bluesea Wire Chart" and there is a great DIY and chart for selecting wire size based on amps. Just remember that the length of the circuit includes both positive and negative cable lengths, so if you are running a circuit to and from the battery (non-local ground) then you double the cable length to determine wire size.
If you find a good local body ground then return path has less impact on length since it’s like running an absurdly large gauge wire for the negative. Now if you’re running an 8ga negative wire all the way back to the battery that’s a different story
 
If you find a good local body ground then return path has less impact on length since it’s like running an absurdly large gauge wire for the negative. Now if you’re running an 8ga negative wire all the way back to the battery that’s a different story
Totally agree!
 
Not sure if the above feedback is related to my inverter question, but I have a big wire (at least 6 guage, maybe 4, I can't recall) and am grounded to the factory ground at the D-pillar (not a return line to the battery). I have that blue sea wire chart and their fuse chart printed and in my tool box and use both regularly.
 
Not sure if the above feedback is related to my inverter question, but I have a big wire (at least 6 guage, maybe 4, I can't recall) and am grounded to the factory ground at the D-pillar (not a return line to the battery). I have that blue sea wire chart and their fuse chart printed and in my tool box and use both regularly.
I came into the conversation in the middle, so not really speaking to specific people's setups, just providing info for the board, as I just went through this wiring my rig.
 
Just a general note for inverters. Be sure to read the owners manual of the inverter before you start your wiring. The 1000W Xantrex inverter I linked above, it is 900W continuous duty but it has surge capacity of 2000W. The literature recommends a 150A DC fuse/breaker to feed the inverter. Xantrex recommends 0 gauge cabling less than 6 feet between inverter and battery.

This is just an example, just a word of caution to not size cable based on the advertised inverter size, read the fine print.
 
Not sure if the above feedback is related to my inverter question, but I have a big wire (at least 6 guage, maybe 4, I can't recall) and am grounded to the factory ground at the D-pillar (not a return line to the battery). I have that blue sea wire chart and their fuse chart printed and in my tool box and use both regularly.
With 6ga you should be able to easily run a 60A circuit. Rule of thumb is 80% load so 48A x 12V = ~600W continuous. Using the body ground will allow you to use a slightly smaller gauge when calculating the round trip (i.e. in the above chart you'd need 4ga wire round trip to do 60A @ 15' but I believe you only need 6ga for 60A @ 10' with the body as a ground instead of a tiny wire). I'm not entirely sure the math for the return path though

1648039559181.png
 
I was thinking for $50 or so, I might do this project, but the ones I looked at from the above links are significantly more costly. I'll probably either just buy the Makita 12v charger, or just leave the battery tools at home. At this time, I don't have any other need for household current so an inverter is probably overkill.
 
Prior to installing the inverter I would just bring a couple batteries. I would bring the saw and the 1/2" driver incase I had to change a tire. If there were a bunch of people going, I'd bring the charger as if need be I could likely ask someone to charge up the battery if it was used up. A couple batteries will get through a small tree easy.

You can get a cheep inverter for about $40.
Amazon product ASIN B082RTV7YS
 
Anybody try the rhino hide armor products? They look clever. I'm not in the market, but if I was doing a money is no object build, I think I'd try them.

 
Prior to installing the inverter I would just bring a couple batteries. I would bring the saw and the 1/2" driver incase I had to change a tire. If there were a bunch of people going, I'd bring the charger as if need be I could likely ask someone to charge up the battery if it was used up. A couple batteries will get through a small tree easy.

You can get a cheep inverter for about $40.
Amazon product ASIN B082RTV7YS
I love this idea. Great thinking. Free and easy! I have a ton of batteries, so I could toss four or six in a bag.
 
Anybody try the rhino hide armor products? They look clever. I'm not in the market, but if I was doing a money is no object build, I think I'd try them.

That is about 3 .5 years too late into the destruction of my paint...
 
Not sure if it is all models, but some of the rhino hide is non-contact to the body panels, so it can actually take impact and not dent the panel, and won't trap grit between the sheet and the panel.

Does it justify the price difference? idk.

I stopped caring about pinstripes sometime in early 2019.
 
Just a general note for inverters. Be sure to read the owners manual of the inverter before you start your wiring. The 1000W Xantrex inverter I linked above, it is 900W continuous duty but it has surge capacity of 2000W. The literature recommends a 150A DC fuse/breaker to feed the inverter. Xantrex recommends 0 gauge cabling less than 6 feet between inverter and battery.

This is just an example, just a word of caution to not size cable based on the advertised inverter size, read the fine print.

Agreed. To add, a couple additional variables, which when combined with your points, can drive the demand for larger gauge wires.

- While we're talking about sizing for inverter output power, the reality is that these devices have losses, which means it takes more input power to make said output power. Sometimes significantly more.

- Power is a product of volts * amps. Using an inverter in situations where the engine is not on, and perhaps the battery is low, or significantly drooping because of chemistry/age/etc., causes proportionately way more amps to be drawn. For example, assuming 1000W draw. Engine on at 13.6V requires ~74 amps. Engine off, battery sagging to 11.5V is 87 amps.
 

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