SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (14 Viewers)

[linuxgod]

This is an older document and that connector may not be in here, but maybe something similar?

Yeah I have the latest version (attached). I can't find an exact match for this connector though. It's 90980-10946.

The corresponding mating part, which I also have, looks like the bottom right image and pops right out, but this part doesn't have any obvious method to pop it apart (unless the special tool I don't have is supposed to fit in one of the tiny holes in the white insert... but if so which one?)

 

[CharlieS]

I hate to even type this, but are you sure that the locking tab is oriented in the right direction as you insert it?

 

[linuxgod]

Not even a 90 degree pick, or dental pick? I feel like I've had ones that worked like that, hook the white part with a small pick and pull it forward, unlocking the pins.

Like the switchpros plug shown here:
View attachment 2954166

Ok that helped. Well that plus my willingness to just break the ******* thing if it came down to it. I used a needle (basically) inserted into the top 2 holes to pry the top forward and down and then it popped apart. Man given all the holes in this thing what a non-intuitive method for opening it.

 

[linuxgod]

Harness complete. Thanks for the assistance! Debating the best way to test this... maybe I'll string a bunch of AA batteries together

 

[Julian73]

Harness complete. Thanks for the assistance! Debating the best way to test this... maybe I'll string a bunch of AA batteries together

View attachment 2954465

Just Temporary connect to the car battery

 

[CharlieS]

Connecting to the battery seems like a good idea, assuming everything you've testing is 12v.

Although, I picked up a variable power source when I was troubleshooting a fuel pump ecu issue a couple of years ago that would be ideal for testing electronics. It has variable voltage and amperage, so is very controlled. Probably overkill for testing 12v lights, but I have it, so I'd probably use it.

 

[linuxgod]

Connecting to the battery seems like a good idea, assuming everything you've testing is 12v.

Although, I picked up a variable power source when I was troubleshooting a fuel pump ecu issue a couple of years ago that would be ideal for testing electronics. It has variable voltage and amperage, so is very controlled. Probably overkill fir teating 12v lights, but I have it, so I'd probably use it.

I thought about the truck battery but it’s cold out and in the off chance I shorted or miswired something I’m hesitant since the harness isn’t fused. actually the variable power supply is a good idea - I totally forgot but I have one that I used when top balancing my Lithium battery pack. Ado that allows me to fiddle in my comfy basement instead of out in the cold garage.

 

[CharlieS]

If it works, can you make me one. I need to do something similar when I get my Dissent bumper. I think he uses those same Roadvision lights...

 

[linuxgod]

If it works, can you make me one. I need to do something similar when I get my Dissent bumper. I think he uses those same Roadvision lights...

At my hourly rate and pace it’ll be like $1000 effort

I’m going to post the wiring diagram and parts in the RLC bumper thread tomorrow when I have a few minutes. It’s not hard and not expensive parts, just kinda slow. Having the right special DT crimper tool would’ve helped me.

 

[tbisaacs]

At my hourly rate and pace it’ll be like $1000 effort

I’m going to post the wiring diagram and parts in the RLC bumper thread tomorrow when I have a few minutes. It’s not hard and not expensive parts, just kinda slow. Having the right special DT crimper tool would’ve helped me.

Lol same. I would have paid to have someone do this part. Mine looks jank.

 

[linuxgod]

I posted the wiring diagram in the RLC bumper thread, for those interested.

RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper

forum.ih8mud.com

Parts-wise the lights cost me about $150 delivered from Australia. The connectors were about $40 total. The Curt adapter runs about $20. The spool of wire was about $40 though I only used maybe half of it. Another $10-20 in techflex, tape, heat shrink, etc. So easily about $250 in parts.

Seriously I probably spent 6-8 hours making this. If I had the real DT crimper tool I could probably get it down to about <2 hours per harness... maybe an hour if I made dozens of these. Even still this would probably be a $500 harness (including all the parts above) to make it worth my time. I bet some company on Alibaba could make these for <$100 (plus the lights) and all you might have to do is put DT6's on the ends of the Roadvision lights... and then sell the harnesses for $$$ here. I suppose if a bunch of people were interested I might look into finding a company to make this, but I suspect we'd need at least a couple dozen people buying in to make it work

On the plus side even if it looks janky... well it's not something you regularly see at least

 

[CharlieS]

Is the factory inverter good enough to run a battery charger for a power tool? I've got 18v Makita tools and I recently switched to an electric chainsaw too. I was wondering if I could run the charger off the plug in the cargo area?

Honestly, seems weird to take 12v DC and turn it into 110v AC to charge a 18v DC battery... Seems like there ought to be a simpler way to do it without the AC in the middle.

 

[Heckraiser]

hook up your jumper cables to the chainsaw and see how she does!

 

[FrazzledHunter]

Is the factory inverter good enough to run a battery charger for a power tool? I've got 18v Makita tools and I recently switched to an electric chainsaw too. I was wondering if I could run the charger off the plug in the cargo area?

Honestly, seems weird to take 12v DC and turn it into 110v AC to charge a 18v DC battery... Seems like there ought to be a simpler way to do it without the AC in the middle.

Do you have a Makita DC18RA charger? If so, then the answer is no as it draws 230W @120VAC. I charge my Makita batteries on-the-go with a Goal Zero Yeti 1500X.

 

[lx200inAR]

Is the factory inverter good enough to run a battery charger for a power tool? I've got 18v Makita tools and I recently switched to an electric chainsaw too. I was wondering if I could run the charger off the plug in the cargo area?

Honestly, seems weird to take 12v DC and turn it into 110v AC to charge a 18v DC battery... Seems like there ought to be a simpler way to do it without the AC in the middle.

This will most likely depend on your charger. I know my standard bosch 18v charger is 4amp. So that's 80ish watts most likely that the charger draws. Supposedly the Inverter is 100w, but on my 2010LX, i have tripped the internal breaker with a 60w power supply. So it's probably just a try it and see type of thing.

 

[CharlieS]

I think it is this one: Makita DC18RD 18V LXT lithium ion dual port rapid

But would prefer a single battery charger for trips. I don't think my old single charger is able to charge the new smart batteries.

 

[Fisher23]

Is the factory inverter good enough to run a battery charger for a power tool? I've got 18v Makita tools and I recently switched to an electric chainsaw too. I was wondering if I could run the charger off the plug in the cargo area?

Honestly, seems weird to take 12v DC and turn it into 110v AC to charge a 18v DC battery... Seems like there ought to be a simpler way to do it without the AC in the middle.

Makita makes a 12 volt automotive charger, makita dc18se, I have seen it at home depot.

A 400 watt inverters start out at $25, and some folks add bigger wires and switch to an inverter with higher watts. I use an inverter.

 

[linuxgod]

Makita makes a 12 volt automotive charger, makita dc18se, I have seen it at home depot.

A 400 watt inverters start out at $25, and some folks add bigger wires and switch to an inverter with higher watts. I use an inverter.

This. Big wire, mount the inverter in the jack compartment.

A 12-18V DC-DC inverter would be great for this but I’ve only seen 12-24 and 12-12 so unlikely you’ll do this without inverting

 

[CharlieS]

Sounds like a plan. I have a big wire (6ga maybe) back to a blue sea distribution box in the rear cargo area. Seems like it would be cheap and easy to add. I'll poke around with a search to see what others here have used for products. Thanks, all.

 

[linuxgod]

Sounds like a plan. I have a big wire (6ga maybe) back to a blue sea distribution box in the rear cargo area. Seems like it would be cheap and easy to add. I'll poke around with a search to see what others here have used for products. Thanks, all.

FYI 8ga will handle 40A (500W) without any issues at that distance. 10ga might be ok depending on distance but I’d need to check.