SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (4 Viewers)

[bloc]

Thanks for the offer. It looks like the part numbers are different for 2012-2015 and >2015. It also looks like the parts may be different between LC and LX. Who knows if they are actually different or if its just the standard rich folks tax. The part number for the LC is 5387560121. The part for the LX is 5387560131. The LX part is $30 more

I need to decide if the time and effort is worth it or if some black duck tape would suffice. My goal is really just to prevent mud, snow, debris, small mammals, hobos, etc from gathering in there.

But if we can confirm that it will fit, I will gladly take it off your hands.

The pins and plastic rivets that attach the fender liner, mudlfap, and rocker panel cover or integrated step in the case of LX, probably explain the difference.

 

[1world1love]

I"m gonna go with wonky TPMS sensor. It would be unusual if all the sensors were exactly the same. Maybe I think this because I also have a tire that reads 2 psi higher than the others pretty consistently.

So I monitor using TPMS on the road, but I always use a gauge (ARB digital) at rest. Even so, my TPMS tends to be the most accurate of all the gauges I have tried at this point. My ARB trends a little low, and my Morflate is a good 3 PSI low.

A completely different but related question, what is a good, well calibrated gauge to get?

 

[KLF]

A completely different but related question, what is a good, well calibrated gauge to get?

@gaijin is the man for this topic.

 

[gaijin]

So I monitor using TPMS on the road, but I always use a gauge (ARB digital) at rest. Even so, my TPMS tends to be the most accurate of all the gauges I have tried at this point. My ARB trends a little low, and my Morflate is a good 3 PSI low.

A completely different but related question, what is a good, well calibrated gauge to get?

@gaijin is the man for this topic.

This is what I use: Intercomp Digital Air Pressure Gauge

Available on Amazon: Intercomp gauge on Amazon

Description:

This ultra quick, high accuracy, digital gauge is the choice of professionals in all types of motorsports.

• #1 Digital Gauge Used by Top Racing Teams
• Accuracy of 0.1%
• Giant 0.5", Backlit Display Characters
• Thumb Operated Bleed Off
• Dual Bleeder Allows for Faster Bleeding
• 22"(559mm) Hose'
• Displays in PSI, BAR & kg/cm²
• Standard 9-Volt Battery Operation
• Includes Case

And since we always like pics:

Not cheap, but well worth it in the long run.

HTH

 

[biff44]

That's why I suggested Grace Ice and Water. Same general stuff as Zip system seam tape but thicker and larger sheets.

i have ice and water shield around somewhere. the flashing tape is about 3X more sticky. it is actually hard to use, as you peal off a thin protective sheet on the back, and as soon as you do it wants to bond to itself creating a huge stuck together mess.
any decent building supply shop will have some of the flashing tape.

 

[tbisaacs]

Anyone ever have a bad coil pack without a misfire code and/or limp mode? Because I did. Coil #6 on its way out and had no indicators other than a stutter. My mind went to dark places like torque converter and transmission — so considering myself lucky.

 

[greynolds]

This is what I use: Intercomp Digital Air Pressure Gauge

Available on Amazon: Intercomp gauge on Amazon

Not cheap, but well worth it in the long run.

Wow - it's "only" $330ish

 

[TeCKis300]

So I monitor using TPMS on the road, but I always use a gauge (ARB digital) at rest. Even so, my TPMS tends to be the most accurate of all the gauges I have tried at this point. My ARB trends a little low, and my Morflate is a good 3 PSI low.

A completely different but related question, what is a good, well calibrated gauge to get?

Regarding gauge precision. Honestly it's futile. Unless one is critically measuring for scientific purposes, and looking to control significant variables like temperature, elevation, or even radiant sun exposure. For example, every 10 degrees ambient is ~.8 PSI difference. Every 1k elevation is ~.5 PSI.

 

[biff44]

Wow - it's "only" $330ish

i use these Longacre ones. they are quite accurate.

Amazon product ASIN B00O4CVLBM
If you need better than that, you can buy a race car certified Longacre one traceable to NTSB, but its a gonna cost you.
apparently, the race car crews need the tire pressures set accurate to a tenth of a pound, or so.

 

[TLC2013]

Anyone ever have a bad coil pack without a misfire code and/or limp mode? Because I did. Coil #6 on its way out and had no indicators other than a stutter. My mind went to dark places like torque converter and transmission — so considering myself lucky.

Glad it was a simple fix, those symptoms would definitely make my heart skip a beat. How many miles on the coils? I still need to add a coil to my on hand parts kit.

 

[kcjaz]

Anyone ever have a bad coil pack without a misfire code and/or limp mode? Because I did. Coil #6 on its way out and had no indicators other than a stutter. My mind went to dark places like torque converter and transmission — so considering myself lucky.

I’ve had a total of 3 misfire situations. Two were for sure spark plugs. One may have been the coil but I did not move the coil around to see if the misfire followed. It looked nasty, I was w route to LCDC, and I had a new one with me so I just replaced it.

How did you figure it out without a code? The first time it happened I felt a vibration and my head went to the dark places too. My dash lit up but I didn’t have the code reader. The second and third time, I knew what it felt like. My wife diagnosed it from the passenger seat the third time. She now has a “misfire look” that she flashes at any hint of abnormal vibration. Lol

 

[tbisaacs]

Glad it was a simple fix, those symptoms would definitely make my heart skip a beat. How many miles on the coils? I still need to add a coil to my on hand parts kit.

I assume they are original — 140k

I’ve had a total of 3 misfire situations. Two were for sure spark plugs. One may have been the coil but I did not move the coil around to see if the misfire followed. It looked nasty, I was w route to LCDC, and I had a new one with me so I just replaced it.

How did you figure it out without a code? The first time it happened I felt a vibration and my head went to the dark places too. My dash lit up but I didn’t have the code reader. The second and third time, I knew what it felt like. My wife diagnosed it from the passenger seat the third time. She now has a “misfire look” that she flashes at any hint of abnormal vibration. Lol

My local indy test drove and felt it and then they drove around with a logger and confirmed it. They moved coil #6 to #4 and the misfire followed.

 

[Sandroad]

This is what I use: Intercomp Digital Air Pressure Gauge

Available on Amazon: Intercomp gauge on Amazon

Description:

This ultra quick, high accuracy, digital gauge is the choice of professionals in all types of motorsports.

• #1 Digital Gauge Used by Top Racing Teams
• Accuracy of 0.1%
• Giant 0.5", Backlit Display Characters
• Thumb Operated Bleed Off
• Dual Bleeder Allows for Faster Bleeding
• 22"(559mm) Hose'
• Displays in PSI, BAR & kg/cm²
• Standard 9-Volt Battery Operation
• Includes Case

And since we always like pics:

View attachment 2899988

Not cheap, but well worth it in the long run.

HTH

Quick follow up SQOD for you. If I use this and repeatedly check the pressure (2-3 times) in a tire, does the long hose soak up enough air to lower the pressure?

 

[bemerritt]

Alrighty, lets log this one in the stupid category. What material is the exhaust/resonator. Looking to chop it off and weld some new pieces to it. Its obviously not stainless and I doubt it is plain old mild steel as it would rust immediately without treatment.

 

[gaijin]

Quick follow up SQOD for you. If I use this and repeatedly check the pressure (2-3 times) in a tire, does the long hose soak up enough air to lower the pressure?

Sure - if you bleed the hose between pressure checks, you'll see the pressure drop a few hundredths of a psi. That's why I always set pressures 0.02psi above target.

HTH

 

[1world1love]

Alrighty, lets log this one in the stupid category. What material is the exhaust/resonator. Looking to chop it off and weld some new pieces to it. Its obviously not stainless and I doubt it is plain old mild steel as it would rust immediately without treatment.

I am not sure what the makeup of the resonator is, but the shop just welded a stainless extension on to mine.

 

[1world1love]

Regarding gauge precision. Honestly it's futile. Unless one is critically measuring for scientific purposes, and looking to control significant variables like temperature, elevation, or even radiant sun exposure. For example, every 10 degrees ambient is ~.8 PSI difference. Every 1k elevation is ~.5 PSI.

True. I may not care about the normal deviations based on atmospheric conditions, but having an accurate baseline can be useful.

 

[4literranger485]

I used to have a 2 mi commute with top speed of 40mph so I have never noticed this. My 2008 LX570 133K miles will not shift into overdrive seemingly until the vehicle (engine/trans) gets up to a certain temp (usually 5 minutes or less). This leads me to hitting 75 and turning 2400 RPM for a few minutes until it shifts into overdrive. Is this by design or am I looking at problems in the near future?

 

[PhuckItImDone]

Not LC related at all actually, but just purchased a Honda Odyssey and wondering if anyone knows/uses a solid Honda, Odyssey, or minivan forum, something like this where I can learn, interact, whatnot? TIA

 

[linuxgod]

I used to have a 2 mi commute with top speed of 40mph so I have never noticed this. My 2008 LX570 133K miles will not shift into overdrive seemingly until the vehicle (engine/trans) gets up to a certain temp (usually 5 minutes or less). This leads me to hitting 75 and turning 2400 RPM for a few minutes until it shifts into overdrive. Is this by design or am I looking at problems in the near future?

I can't really speak to the specific speed/rpm (and I live in the city so I'm always warmed up by the time I get to a highway), but yes it's normal for the vehicle to hold lower gears much longer when it's still cold. I'm not sure about overdrive, specifically, but it would not surprise me.

That said you're at 133k so if you haven't ever had a shop do a full 12 quart transmission fluid swap, you may want to do that. What you're experiencing is generally speaking normal (holding gears much longer when very cold) but it may be exacerbated by old fluid. I think my local dealer charges about $250 to do this.

Incidentally 2400RPMs is not that bad. I run around 2200 RPMs in my LC at 75-80mph when in 6th gear (OD) because I've also re-geared. (and when I tow I'll run somewhere between 2700 and 3200 all day long because I'm in 4th or 5th)