SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (3 Viewers)

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I experimented with rotating 5 tires on my FJ62 and other vehicles. I did not like the tread wear and now do only 4. I do have a new matching tire as a spare and when I replace the 4 on the ground it will go on the ground and a brand new one as spare. That way it does not age out. This assumes you like your tire choice and do not plan on changing.
 
I experimented with rotating 5 tires on my FJ62 and other vehicles. I did not like the tread wear and now do only 4. I do have a new matching tire as a spare and when I replace the 4 on the ground it will go on the ground and a brand new one as spare. That way it does not age out. This assumes you like your tire choice and do not plan on changing.
Well now that you mention it, there's a lift kit and new set of beefier tires on the horizon! The Geolandars work fine, but they don't really look the business. I want tires with a little more "character".
 
Hi All,

Gotta SQOD. So check this out. A while back I brought my truck into the dealer for an oil change and a clearly specified 5 tire rotation. My tires had 6-7K miles on them at the time, and so I wanted the spare mixed into the rotation. Got it back, didn't think much about it.

Flash forward to today and I'm removing the spare because I'm in the middle of Fluid Filming underneath and realize they never grabbed the 5th wheel! So now I have four tires with 10K miles (Yokohama A/T GeoLandars) and one with zero miles, and I'm wondering if it's safe to put the spare into the mix because of tread wear. Should I measure the tread depth difference between the new one and an old one and calculate from there?

Thanks!
Check the tread depth but at 10k you’re probably fine to use it
 
When looking at FSM diagrams such as below, is there an easy way to get part numbers that I am missing? Or is it easiest to just have partsouq.com open and search the part name? Thanks!


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You'll need to use partsouq or another site with diagrams. The FSM doesn't have part #s.
 
Toyota part diagrams are probably the easiest. Partsouq.com is just one, but you can use Toyota.com as well.
 
Another quick SQOD. I put OEM leveling plates on my front struts a few months back, and it looks good. But I just ordered a 2" Ironman lift kit, and am wondering if it's standard practice to just transfer the plates to the new struts.

I guess I don't know if LCs are raked because of inherent geometry, or is it just the OEM coils that cause it, and I won't need the spacers with the new components. The last thing I want is to get everything back together and realize the front is higher than the rear. That would make me fabulously angry.

Make sense? Thanks as always!
 
Another quick SQOD. I put OEM leveling plates on my front struts a few months back, and it looks good. But I just ordered a 2" Ironman lift kit, and am wondering if it's standard practice to just transfer the plates to the new struts.

I guess I don't know if LCs are raked because of inherent geometry, or is it just the OEM coils that cause it, and I won't need the spacers with the new components. The last thing I want is to get everything back together and realize the front is higher than the rear. That would make me fabulously angry.

Make sense? Thanks as always!
Are you lifting the rear?

Without too much other info, I would only add the spacers if you have a front bumper/winch.
 
Anyone have a list of crush washer sizes needed for the LC 200? It looks like the oil drain plug is 12mm inner diameter and between 18-20mm outer diameter. Looking for numbers for Front/Rear Diff, Transfer Case, Transmission (drain, fill, check plugs), and any other areas where crush washers are recommended.
 
Anyone have a list of crush washer sizes needed for the LC 200? It looks like the oil drain plug is 12mm inner diameter and between 18-20mm outer diameter. Looking for numbers for Front/Rear Diff, Transfer Case, Transmission (drain, fill, check plugs), and any other areas where crush washers are recommended.

From my 60k maintenance notes. Note capacities are per the manual but in my experience the diffs and transfer case seem to take a tad less.

· Motor Oil: 7.9 quarts 0w-20 synthetic
· Front Diff: 2.01 quarts LT, 75W-85 (fill plug uses crush washer, drain plug uses copper washer) - amsoil SVGQA-EA
· Rear Diff: 4.44 quarts LT, 75W-85 (fill and drain plugs use crush washer) - amsoil SVGQA-EA
· Transmission: 12.6 quarts ATF WS (only need 3 if just doing a pan drain/fill, or ~16 for a full flush) (fill and drain plugs use aluminum washer) - amsoil ATL1G-A
· Transfer Case: 1.53 quarts LF, SAE 75W (fill and drain plugs use aluminum washer) - ravenol 75w
· Air Filter
· Cabin air filter

3 Crush washers: 12157-10010 (for front diff fill and rear diff fill/drain)
1 copper washer: 90430-24003 (for front diff drain)
4 aluminum washers: 90430-18008 (for transfer case and A/T fill/drain)
 
Does someone know how many amps can the #4 trailer wire that runs power to your trailer carry?
Does this wire have a dedicated fuse?
 
Does someone know how many amps can the #4 trailer wire that runs power to your trailer carry?
Does this wire have a dedicated fuse?

It's probably good for 20 amps continuous, with some voltage drop all the way at the rear.
 
Does someone know how many amps can the #4 trailer wire that runs power to your trailer carry?
Does this wire have a dedicated fuse?
Possibly fuse “Sub Batt” in the engine compartment main fuse box is for that line. It’s rated at 40 AMP. It’s part of that weird bus bar of fuses and I was not able to remove the fuse to test for continuity on that circuit. I assume this is in reference to the pin that is live even with ignition off.
 
I purchased touch up paint from the dealer and received two vials, one base coat and one for my paint code. Shouldn't there be a clear coat component as well?

20211019_150448.jpg
 
Possibly fuse “Sub Batt” in the engine compartment main fuse box is for that line. It’s rated at 40 AMP. It’s part of that weird bus bar of fuses and I was not able to remove the fuse to test for continuity on that circuit. I assume this is in reference to the pin that is live even with ignition off.


Thanks .. you got me looking in the right area.
The 40 amp blue is for the trailer brakes and the 30 amp red is for the 12 volt charging line that I was looking for.
 
I purchased touch up paint from the dealer and received two vials, one base coat and one for my paint code. Shouldn't there be a clear coat component as well?

View attachment 2816376
There is but it's a different part # IIRC. The paint is a 2-part system but the clearcoat is the same part used on every paint
 

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