I think the risk is low, it just looks ghetto and would drive me nuts.
Those little boxes just below the taillights are the sensors for Blind Spot Monitoring. Very expensive to replace if they get damaged.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (9 Viewers)
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Those little boxes just below the taillights are the sensors for Blind Spot Monitoring. Very expensive to replace if they get damaged.
Yep, after putting on the 275/70 18s, the speedo on our 200 is almost dead on accurate. Maybe 1-2 mph low.
The 100 on the same tires is quite a bit (roughly 5-6%) low on the speedo reading.
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TLC2013
SILVER Star
Seems to be related to body roll/movement that occurs when making a tight turn and u-turns. My passenger side KDSS sway bar rubs slightly during these situations.
I've wondered that myself. May be due to a slight flex in the bushings when power is applied through the front drive line, reducing the clearance that was there before power was applied. Could probably confirm this by doing the maneuver and then, without changing anything else, put it in neutral. It should then stop, if my assumption is correct.
PhuckItImDone
SILVER Star
It won't be 'pretty', but you can ziptie those pieces back on. If you use a colormatched (TM) zip tie it maybe passes the 10 ft test? Or did all the little nubs at the top get torn out too?
Maybe work, maybe not. I hooked the bumper on my 100 series, but not as bad. I got it up and in place then taped it there. went on the inside and with a couple of pieces of flexible plastic (used to spread body putty), I spread out some epoxy. To hold my plastic "bridge" I contrived some clamping mechanisms and used some aluminum duct tape and let it sit for a day.
I'm sure it wasn't as strong as an original bumper but it worked until I could find a decent used one to replace it.
PhuckItImDone
SILVER Star
Some of the nubs are gone, some are close. I got lucky in that nothing cracked or got the tail lights, and feel like it gets risky once at speed. The one pic I got off where it was catching wind.
afgman786
SILVER Star
Whether you go aftermarket or not, you'll need a new bumper skin since the top half stays for the rear unless you go Dobinson. So why not just buy the bumper skin now and then get what you really want.
1world1love
SILVER Star
The LCA and UCA control arms are located by rubber bushings. So there is a degree of play and flex to the tire position. Reversing puts a different pressure on the bushings, likely locating the tire a bit more forward. If we had race suspension with metal spherical bushings, tire position wouldn't change.
Fortunately, rub at the forward part of the wheel well is some of the easiest to resolve. Provided you're running reasonable offsets that the rub is to the liner and not the bumper itself.
I was able to pull the front of the liner about 1.5" forward. It's literally a 5-10 minute operation to re-pin the liner more forward. Enough that I don't rub at all with 35s. Should be similar for the LC.
Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX
Join along as I work through making the necessary clearance mods for 35x12.5R20s tires on my LX. These Toyo AT3s spec out to be 34.5" x 12.5". If you have any suggestions, I'm interested in hearing. Note that this fitment is specific to the LX as it's easier to fit larger and wider tires...
forum.ih8mud.com
FYI I fixed my KDSS and passenger's side sway bar rub yesterday. zero rub now on 34s. (I say "I" but it was actually Rick @ ChiTown 4x4 that did the work since we had the truck on the lift to swap the diff fluid anyway).The LCA and UCA control arms are located by rubber bushings. So there is a degree of play and flex to the tire position. Reversing puts a different pressure on the bushings, likely locating the tire a bit more forward. If we had race suspension with metal spherical bushings, tire position wouldn't change.
Fortunately, rub at the forward part of the wheel well is some of the easiest to resolve. Provided you're running reasonable offsets that the rub is to the liner and not the bumper itself.
I was able to pull the front of the liner about 1.5" forward. It's literally a 5-10 minute operation to re-pin the liner more forward. Enough that I don't rub at all with 35s. Should be similar for the LC.
Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX
Join along as I work through making the necessary clearance mods for 35x12.5R20s tires on my LX. These Toyo AT3s spec out to be 34.5" x 12.5". If you have any suggestions, I'm interested in hearing. Note that this fitment is specific to the LX as it's easier to fit larger and wider tires...
KDSS relo + mounting the sway bar end links on the outside of the LCA cradle did the trick. Tons of clearance now.
I'm going to post a separate thread/topic with pics, since I think this is potentially a great option that few folks are aware of.
Tommy Dwyer
SILVER Star
Following. Will be interested to see this solution as I’m experiencing rubbing on my drivers side at full lock.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Same here (only in reverse though).Following. Will be interested to see this solution as I’m experiencing rubbing on my drivers side at full lock.
Following. Will be interested to see this solution as I’m experiencing rubbing on my drivers side at full lock.
Basic info posted:
Sway bar end link relocation (or "how to fit 34s with zero rubbing")
I fixed my KDSS and passenger's side sway bar rub yesterday. zero rub now on 34s. (I say "I" but it was actually Rick @ ChiTown 4x4 that did the work since we had the truck on the lift to swap the diff fluid anyway). KDSS relo kit + mounting the sway bar end links on the outside of the LCA...
forum.ih8mud.com
Pics forthcoming later today when I can get out to the garage
Sweet! Maybe 37s aren't that far away.
Interested to hear your impressions of this config. @Atwalz was probably one of the first to use this strategy and I've always been curious why it hasn't been adopted more.
Sweet! Maybe 37s aren't that far away.
Interested to hear your impressions of this config. @Atwalz was probably one of the first to use this strategy and I've always been curious why it hasn't been adopted more.
I noticed no difference in handling, though I didn't try to make some evasive moose-avoidance maneuvers to really push it to the limit. The big question will be wear and abuse, I suppose. I've got a ~6000 mile road trip with the trailer planned this summer, plus wheeling in Ouray and Moab. If it holds up well to that, it'll hold up well to pretty much anything except a direct hit.
How many watts is the rear AC outlet in the 2016+ LX rated for?
Rated for a paltry 100W. It'll only handle a hair over that before it shuts the party down.
Sucky cause the Taco, 4R, and FJ have 400W units.
