SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (7 Viewers)

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Regarding mud flap removal, is anyone aware of an aftermarket insert for the wheel wells that can replace the flap after removal? I know some members have DIY'd their own solutions but I would prefer to just buy something and I don't really want to trim my flaps in case I decide to reinstall at a later date. I could have sworn I saw some inserts for sale somewhere but now I cannot track them down.
 
What does this symbol on my skid plate mean? (and no, I did not check the manual)

[edit, the photo was upside down]

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What does this symbol on my skid plate mean? (and no, I did not check the manual)

View attachment 2656937

Your picture is upside down, but is the Japanese kana for "u" (pronounced as oo in loop) and is usually an indicator for UP or FIRST in English.

HTH
 
I will be adding a standard cigarette lighter style 12V outlet in the rear for my fridge. I've had junk outlets that wouldn't hold anything, and there doesn't seem to be any sort of "high-end_ outlet I've found. What brand are folks installing that keeps the male plug snugly in place under rough conditions? A link would be a bonus!

Thanks!
 
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Your picture is upside down, but is the Japanese kana for "u" (pronounced as oo in loop) and is usually an indicator for UP or FIRST in English.
oops! But I wonder what it means in the context. It is towards the front of the vehicle on the driver's side. I guess it could indicate the front of the skid plate. Maybe it's for the folks who change the oil filter and tells them how to reinstall the plate. The passenger side is not marked.
 
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I’ve used locking plugs on prior builds.

I generally just use regular duty Blue Sea plugs now. In our family, the USB plugs seem to get more use than the older charging plugs (cigar lighter plug style), so I have a mixture of female outlet types.

If you look at the details of the male side of the plug, they call it a twist lock socket.

Good selection here: 12 Volt Socket and Plugs - Blue Sea Systems - https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/0/2//12%20Volt%20Socket%20and%20Plugs
Oh, locking! I had no idea that was a choice! I completely forgot about Blue Sea for this application, although I've used their USB and voltage gauge before. Thanks!

My fridge originally had a BMW/Hella DIN style plug, and I installed a couple outlets in the back and grille of the 4Runner for it. Then converted all of my 12V plugs to that style. But one of the receptacles melted due to too high a load*, so I'm not going that route again. I considered Anderson plugs, but that excludes borrowed accessories. I guess I can make a 12V cigarette receptacle to Anderson converter cable for those applications. Hmmm...

Thank you for the input!


* Wire size was more than adequate, but I didn't realize the receptacle itself was rated fairly low. I think I remember 10 A.
 
Oh, locking! I had no idea that was a choice! I completely forgot about Blue Sea for this application, although I've used their USB and voltage gauge before. Thanks!

My fridge originally had a BMW/Hella DIN style plug, and I installed a couple outlets in the back and grille of the 4Runner for it. Then converted all of my 12V plugs to that style. But one of the receptacles melted due to too high a load*, so I'm not going that route again. I considered Anderson plugs, but that excludes borrowed accessories. I guess I can make a 12V cigarette receptacle to Anderson converter cable for those applications. Hmmm...

Thank you for the input!


* Wire size was more than adequate, but I didn't realize the receptacle itself was rated fairly low. I think I remember 10 A.
This what I did. I also put on on the end of my compressor power cord so I can plug in at the back to air up. I made an adapter for a cigarette plug. I also made an adapter with the Anderson plug on one side and battery clamps on the other in case I need to use the compressor on someone else's vehicle.
 
For those who have relocated their sway bar end links to the outside of the LCA anyone either know the original dimensions of the bolt that is used to hold the sway bar end links in place or the correct length for a new longer bolt?


I'm looking at doing the KDSS relo and wanted to try what @Willy beamin did but I'd like to avoid taking the suspension apart just to measure the bolt.

 
For those who have relocated their sway bar end links to the outside of the LCA anyone either know the original dimensions of the bolt that is used to hold the sway bar end links in place or the correct length for a new longer bolt?


I'm looking at doing the KDSS relo and wanted to try what @Willy beamin did but I'd like to avoid taking the suspension apart just to measure the bolt.

dude - back the bolt out - nothing wlll happen. the swaybar end link is capture in the carrier so it stays put
 
dude - back the bolt out - nothing wlll happen. the swaybar end link is capture in the carrier so it stays put
Ah ok cool, I thought the end link might pop up and out. I haven't pulled my front end apart since the lift went on in 2017 and all I recall was that I had to wrestle the end links back into the cradle to get it lined up correctly for the bolt to thread through at that time.

Is the nut on the backside welded to the LCA or am I going to have to squeeze a finger around my shock to hold it in place?
 
Ah ok cool, I thought the end link might pop up and out. I haven't pulled my front end apart since the lift went on in 2017 and all I recall was that I had to wrestle the end links back into the cradle to get it lined up correctly for the bolt to thread through at that time.

Is the nut on the backside welded to the LCA or am I going to have to squeeze a finger around my shock to hold it in place?
If theres concerns of that popping up secure a a ratchet strap around it and another point to ease your mind. There is access to the nut on the back inside of the LCA. You can get a wrench on it.
 
I could have sworn the ones on both of my 200 were captive threads, not a nut that turned. We’re talking about the bolt to the anti-sway bar linkage, right?
 
I could have sworn the ones on both of my 200 were captive threads, not a nut that turned. We’re talking about the bolt to the anti-sway bar linkage, right?
Yep, that's the bolt.

That's what I vaguely remember, that the nut is part of the LCA. I couldn't get a good photo this morning around the shock mount to confirm. The limited diagrams I've seen show a part # for a bolt, but there isn't a nut shown on the diagram nor a part for it so I'm hoping that is the case... or if not that I can squeeze a finger behind to hold it at least without pulling the shock.
 
I’ve done three 200 suspension jobs in the last year, it is definitely captive.*

*not much compared to a shop, but enough that I am completely sure.
 
If theres concerns of that popping up secure a a ratchet strap around it and another point to ease your mind. There is access to the nut on the back inside of the LCA. You can get a wrench on it.

Not really. I know if it does come out I can wrestle it back in as I've done it before, it's just a lot more work than asking ;-) Just trying to get parts lined up before the weekend as the LCAs will have to come out to replace what I believe is a seized cam bolt. I'll give it a shot this evening
 
I’ve done three 200 suspension jobs in the last year, it is definitely captive.*

*not much compared to a shop, but enough that I am completely sure.

Thanks. Heh I should've had you measure the bolt while you had it apart any one of those 3 times :D
 
I will be adding a standard cigarette lighter style 12V outlet in the rear for my fridge. I've had junk outlets that wouldn't hold anything, and there doesn't seem to be any sort of "high-end_ outlet I've found. What brand are folks installing that keeps the male plug snugly in place under rough conditions? A link would be a bonus!

Thanks!
I use powerlet plugs and receptacles. Be sure to source the 15 amp versions. Great for fridges, usb, etc.
 

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