SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (1 Viewer)

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I have a single X2 Power AGM battery. Plan on experimenting this weekend by letting it go to the voltage cutoff on "medium" and if it will still turn off.

As others pointed out, the ARB manual recommends "low" for dual batteries, "high" for starting batteries, but no explanation of what "medium" is for. My hope is that it's for "big ass AGM".

I ran my fridge on “medium” cutoff and can confirm that my truck still started.
 
I cannot be the only guy on here trying to figure out how to secure a fridge slide to the factory tie downs with no drawer system - come on post up
 
I cannot be the only guy on here trying to figure out how to secure a fridge slide to the factory tie downs with no drawer system - come on post up

I find the picture you posted with your original question confusing - it looks like a false floor with tie down straps on the left and a slide on the right.

If you already have a false floor, then mount your Dometic slide to that.

What am I missing?
 
I cannot be the only guy on here trying to figure out how to secure a fridge slide to the factory tie downs with no drawer system - come on post up

I bought some cargo tie downs and bolted them to the third row seat bolts. Use those to strap the fridge down
 
I find the picture you posted with your original question confusing - it looks like a false floor with tie down straps on the left and a slide on the right.

If you already have a false floor, then mount your Dometic slide to that.

What am I missing?
Youre correct but I sources that image off google. Our tie downs are similar but not spaced properly
 
I cannot be the only guy on here trying to figure out how to secure a fridge slide to the factory tie downs with no drawer system - come on post up

You might want to do what I initially did before changing my placement:

Cut a piece of plywood that is shaped so that you can anchor it to the oddly spaced seat anchors. Then you can attach the slide to the plywood as you would on a drawer top.

I agree that it can be a puzzler.
 
You might want to do what I initially did before changing my placement:

Cut a piece of plywood that is shaped so that you can anchor it to the oddly spaced seat anchors. Then you can attach the slide to the plywood as you would on a drawer top.

I agree that it can be a puzzler.
I think thats a good option and doable for the time i have. Thanks guys
 
SQOTD....what is the design function of the plastic flaps hanging down from the stock front bumper cover?

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More of an annoyance than a question but I've noticed every time I go to open the oil fill cap, its seized on and I have to grab channel locks to loosen it. I change my own oil and barely tighten it back on. Over the oil chance cycle, it's siezed back on there. Anybody else have this issue? First world problems. ....
 
More of an annoyance than a question but I've noticed every time I go to open the oil fill cap, its seized on and I have to grab channel locks to loosen it. I change my own oil and barely tighten it back on. Over the oil chance cycle, it's siezed back on there. Anybody else have this issue? First world problems. ....

Yes, happened every time. A bit annoying.
 
SQOTD....what is the design function of the plastic flaps hanging down from the stock front bumper cover?

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The entire lip diverts air away from the undercarriage, which marginally improves gas mileage. The gap between the center section and in front of the wheel is to encourage air flow to the brakes. If Toyota wasn't concerned with air flow to the brakes they would have made that lower air dam run all the way across
 
The entire lip diverts air away from the undercarriage, which marginally improves gas mileage. The gap between the center section and in front of the wheel is to encourage air flow to the brakes. If Toyota wasn't concerned with air flow to the brakes they would have made that lower air dam run all the way across
Thanks for the reply @linuxgod , I kind of thought that to be the case, but I appreciate the confirmation. The reason I ask is that not having lifted the truck yet, I occasionally catch them on stuff, was thinking about just removing them. My thoughts are there would be no problems as they’re removed with a bumper upgrade.....true?
Thanks again!
T
 
I removed mine when I put 34s on as they rubbed the crap out of that area. Then I used a box cutter to promptly remove about 1 square foot of plastic liner in the front on either side.

You are correct, there's no impact save for the aerodynamic impact on mileage, which is negligible
 
I removed mine when I put 34s on as they rubbed the crap out of that area. Then I used a box cutter to promptly remove about 1 square foot of plastic liner in the front on either side.

You are correct, there's no impact save for the aerodynamic impact on mileage, which is negligible
Again, thanks. Appreciate the input!
 
More of an annoyance than a question but I've noticed every time I go to open the oil fill cap, its seized on and I have to grab channel locks to loosen it. I change my own oil and barely tighten it back on. Over the oil chance cycle, it's siezed back on there. Anybody else have this issue? First world problems. ....

YES!!! I thought it was me...and every damn time I change the oil I tell myself "Now don't be an ass and overtighten the cap again". Thanks for posting this...it scares me top type this, but I've been changing my own oil for 39 f'ing years and I have been kicking myself recently for overtightening this damn cap. So relieved to learn it's not me!! :bang:
 
YES!!! I thought it was me...and every damn time I change the oil I tell myself "Now don't be an ass and overtighten the cap again". Thanks for posting this...it scares me top type this, but I've been changing my own oil for 39 f'ing years and I have been kicking myself recently for overtightening this damn cap. So relieved to learn it's not me!! :bang:

Haha I just changed the oil before this trip to Telluride and I'm going to check it when I get out there. Bet the SOB is siezed on and I know I barely tightened it.
 
I have a 2008 LC - has anyone ever had problems with cruise control? Every other button on the steering wheel works 100% of the time. The cruise control on/off toggle will work about once every 2 weeks. Intermittent problems are the worst kind of problems...

I hooked it up to techstream and I was able to get the cruise light to come on - that's operating correctly. That inspired me to keep clicking the button and I finally got it to work. It will function for some time before everything cuts out to the cruise control stalk.

I tried the cheapest fix first and replaced the cruise stalk entirely. No change. Next up is the clock spring, I guess. I don't want to keep replacing parts wildly - has anyone seen this problem before? The next troubleshooting step in techstream is to replace the ECU, which seems a bit excessive...

If the clockspring was having issues, you would think it would affect more than the cruise control operations, right? Fingers crossed, as I'm replacing that thing this week. After that... go fish.
 
Is this the cruise control test procedure you used?

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