Spring Wrenching.

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Sep 1, 2007
It's two weeks and a wake up for this deployment. When I get home I should be moving to a house with a nice BIG, heated, insulated shop. After the 2 post lift is anchored to the concrete I will break in the shop by putting in the 3" exhaust. That is already on order. Probably do a bunch of PM as well.

What I may get is a 4x4 Labs rear bumper kit a single swing tire carrier and a high lift bracket to weld in behind the spare. Luke informed me that he can provide a frame slider kit. He does not have a cat skid plate figured out yet. But with my exhaust and um... non standard catylist situation I wont need that.

I also will probably put in ARB differentials. Looks like the best price I have found was performance off road center at $729 front and rear each.
For the shop I think this will be my MVP of all my tools and my most used "lift kit"
Bend-Pak XPR-10ACX Asym. Clearfloor Wide 10,000 LB 2 Post Lift


I also emailed JT about sending in my thirds and getting them back regeared with their solid pinion spacers and ARB equipped. I also dont know if they will just deduct them as a core from their pre built thirds price.
Just a front purchased out right with ARB's would be $1600.

Hmm front ARB diff $729 (lowest I have seen ala carte), Gears $210, Solid spacer $25, Master OH kit $175. That is about $1150.. I guess if they give a core credit it would be a good deal. But $3k to do both axles may have to wait given the other things I am doing lately.

The worst case scenario is I do bumpers, exhaust and sliders. Then get some more zip out of the engine. This will allow me to pick a gear ratio after the engine hop up. If it has a bunch more power I wont gear as low to conserve highway efficiency. Got a feeling that putting jing into the shop will pay for itself on side jobs and maybe even pay for my regear and lockers.
You can always do one axle at a time as long as you disconnect drive shafts and don't wheel.
It has ARB springs already and your plates. There are more vehicles that need work than the 80. Two hotrods in the works as well.
You can always do one axle at a time as long as you disconnect drive shafts and don't wheel.

Makes no sense.

Why not just bank it and wait to order both.. Or order one. Install only the lines (pluged and secured) and compressor and wait until you get the second one to install both of them?

Putting a third member in is childs play compared to setting up gears.

That being said.. I might just get with a friend who teaches at a tech college and have him teach me how to do it as we do my gears and lockers. Expanding your experience and expertise is always good.
How thick is your concrete where the lift will go? Reinforced properly?

I have wrenched for awhile and a lift would be nice to have but since I don't necessarily make a living being a mechanic it is hard to justify. What I did pick up was a 32" or so floorjack which is pretty nice, my third floorjack...
My buddy has a rotary lift in his shop...

I looked at the MFG concrete requirements.

It is not in Houston bro.. In order to withstand the Minnesota climate any slab or even driveway installer worth a dang puts in thick slabs or high strength concrete with plenty of rebar. As you go farther north the beefier the slabs get.

I have a big floor jack. 8 car sized jack stands, 4 of the biggest tallest stands I could find (had to high lift jack to get it on them). The ad for the house called it a 6 car detached garage. They weren’t kidding about the size. I have enough friends that want to hire me to fix their car or do mods to both use the lift a bunch as well as make enough to offset the expense.

The garage/shop is newer than the home. At the time it was built the code minimum thickness of any point of a garage slab was 3-1/2" and the at least 3500 psi concrete is required. I will measure it of course. From what I have seen of this shop I am fairly confident that the person who had the shop built did not stop at the minimum requirements but exceeded them. I have yet to see a slab get poured to 3-1/2" at the request of a home owner. A big developer might maximize the minimums. But a guy adding a shop to his home and was planning on staying is going to beef it up a bit.

Bend-pak calls for 4" thick 3000 psi min for the two post.
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They have extended height models you can get too. Another 24" So the roof would trip the stop switch at 165" above the ground as opposed to 141".

I find I prefer to work seated when possible as opposed to standing, haunched or on my back. Adjustable height bar/shop stools work great if you are doing wheel service like brakes or bearings and you can even use them on some under car jobs with a lift..
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