Split rims, bias ply tires, tubes, and tube liners (1 Viewer)

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Can anyone explain removing or keeping the valve metal plate (TR75A Valve stem bridge washers TR BW1) at the valse stem because I am splitting/painting/mounting 11 tires :worms:
A lot of nice info here: Beadell Tours - Tubes for Tyres by Mick Hutton

The 6 used splits have the metal plate inside and I can find no info about removing them, they have been driven 50k kilometers trough Africa.
type # TR75A split rim valve stem. EDIT: metal plate (valve stem bridge washer) is very important.

And I have two types of splitrims, 4 have the narrow gap and 2 are wide gap.
I can not find if it is true that narrow gap type will touch the front brake caliper? I will try tomorrow: 1 (or 2) wide gap will be spare tire. EDIT: no problem
This was driving fine and time to put on good wheels and paint the splitrims, the rust holes are welded, front LOKKA is ordered :hillbilly:

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The bridge washer (BWx) prevents the rubber around the valve stem from rubbing against the metal hole (when the tube is fully inflated like a balloon) that the valve stem goes through. I've always installed the tubes as constructed - i.e. I don't remove/replace any of the washers/etc.

I presume you have the rust rings to install as well as the tubes (i.e. the rubber 'inserts' that sit between the tube and the rim)?

cheers,
george.
 
Asked on other forum's not much response they don't seem to like 7.50-r16's unlike this thread. I have a 86' BJ60 want to put splits back on , it has bridgestone u traction on spare looking for something like it. I can find highway or super traction tires , one has no traction lug and the other is to aggressive is there a tire like this available in USA at this time. Thanks again Bill
 
@george_tlc Thanks a lot for the explanation and it was mentioned by @Joe_E that he removed the bridge washers (sorry Joe, seems you have to split and reinstall them again)

The wide gap splits do fit in the front so I dont know why or who mentioned that:

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a little mud but no rubbing the wheel:

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Finding a safe way to break the bead with tools that are onboard and not damaging the rim:

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Breaking the bead on tough rims: rotating the jack 2 times must be enough, 4 times plenty, but these needed 7 different places to push to release.
I dont like pushing the tire flat in the first try, rotate is more work but I think the tire survives better:
This jack seems to need a special add on to break a bead and not flattening the tire:
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When the bead is broken the rest is fast, only rust can spoil a quick release.
Rust flakes can puncture a tube so be ahead of that and the common advice is to remove the tires before traveling (no extra hulk tools needed) :

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Now time to clean and talc the tubes, paint the splits and put the "new" tires on:

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@B Bear I don't know about the usa market but it must be available.
This dutch site shows many 4x4 tires to get an idea:
Alle merken Offroadbanden
 
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As you found out ... There is no difference to fitting the two rims

As for the bridge washer it is as George said to keep it from moving around ... But more so for industrial use preventing it from being spun in the rim and sucked into the tyre :)

Some people talk about this happening ... Main reason is because the stem being too short that I has seen

i used the 75 vs's and kinda prefer the 150 vs's ... IMHO it balences better with beads and the 150 is flexible

Your xzl tires are not commonly available in USA ... There is a place in Canada that sells takeoffs I love the 8.25r16 size and would love to find a more sutable AT tire in that size for my DD

I enquired about getting them shipped ... And it was ALOT ... They are very heavy :)
 
So it is quite a mess to move all the stuff around but getting there: next week maybe, or the week after that :banana:
The three old tires on the left are brought to the garbage, it was hard leaving them :crybaby:
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The best is I got 4 snow chains for the splitrims 7.5016 one pair is second hand and the other is new!
:princess: is so happy with all that stuff :slap:

This is a test on the two spare tires, try again on the car as advised to avoid hassle :wrench: in the snow and freezing cold.
I am thinking about pumping water on the land just to see if I get stuck again :cool:

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@george_tlc Thanks a lot for the explanation and it was mentioned by @Joe_E that he removed the bridge washers (sorry Joe, seems you have to split and reinstall them again)


Finding a safe way to break the bead with tools that are onboard and not damaging the rim:

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Breaking the bead on tough rims: rotating the jack 2 times must be enough, 4 times plenty, but these needed 7 different places to push to release.
I dont like pushing the tire flat in the first try, rotate is more work but I think the tire survives better:
This jack seems to need a special add on to break a bead and not flattening the tire:
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When the bead is broken the rest is fast, only rust can spoil a quick release.

I used to use the jack method to break down my splits. Too much work and a couple of times the back end would lift up before the bead broke. I didn't like the forces involved between the chance of the vehicle settle to one side and hitting me with the arm of the jack or the fact that the stress on the sidewall of the tire could rip it. I ended up buying this:
BeadBuster XB-450 Tire Bead Breaker - Motorcycle Tire Changer
I'm not affiliated with the company and it makes breaking down tires and rims as easy as operating an air compressor. These work great on Mr. T's split rings.
 
thanks, Found this video that shows how it works, just a bit to much $ for me.
But definitely need something better to prevent tire damage.
I will throw away one rusted splitrim so maybe use that ring/rim piece to press next time.



And made this picture to see how it locks without tire mounted:

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thanks, Found this video that shows how it works, just a bit to much $ for me.
But definitely need something better to prevent tire damage.
I will throw away one rusted splitrim so maybe use that ring/rim piece to press next time.

Yes, the beadbuster isn't cheap but its cheaper than this: Product : Extreme Outback. And the beadbuster is much, much smaller so its easier to transport on the trail.

I was also cautious about buying one but after the first time of breaking down a rusty split rim in about 5 minutes without even working hard, I considered it worth it. Its harder to move the tire and rim on and off the vehicle than it is to operate a beadbuster.

I never tried the technique of using a rusted split rim to break it down so maybe that will work for you.

The video you lined to is pretty accurate in my estimation. The only difference is that the tool works faster with an pneumatic impact gun than with an battery operated impact gun.
 
Just found this thread. Anyone have experience with these tires?

$85.99 - Power King Super Traction II LT7.00x-15 tires | Buy Power King Super Traction II tires at SimpleTire

For breaking beads, I like the tool that has been passed down by my Grandfather to my Father and now to me. I don't have a picture, but it is a short length of chain with a hook which attaches to a horseshoe looking gizmo with a steel handle. Have broken bead on a metric shed load of bias ply tires with this critter.

Edited to add: Here's a similar critter.

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power kings has great traction... just as the name implies... but... being bias ply they wear fast ... maybe 20,000 miles MAX

had them on my trailer .... now have the PK trailer tires and bias as well... they wear fast
 
@120mm

that is a great simple bead breaker design... i am lovin it... will need to steal the idea :)

What was the grandfathers name? like to give credit.... or give it a name of some sort

His name was LuVerne Schumann. Everyone just called him Verne, though. His design had a much stouter attachment point for the chain to the steel rod, and he bent the steel rod to give it more leverage.
 

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