Splash guard thoughts?

[iliketrucks]

I fixed my rusty splashguards (radiator, and one for each side on the frame rails by the engine/trans) and now I don't even know if I want to bolt them back on! They seem like more of a liability than an asset? I feel like they're just going to get damaged, and make the vehicle slightly harder to work on. What advantages did toyota see with including them?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Aren't they held on with 2 bolts each? Use stainless steel allen bolts & lock washers with anti seize compound - you can zip them off in like 10 seconds when needed. I think the one on the dizzy side helps keep the ignition dry when going threw long puddles at high speed.

 

[Mike Shull]

I removed mine in 1995 and I’ve never looked back.

 

[JackA]

IMO......they are useless. Mud and water will still get in. Plus they limit accessibility.

 

[71-CRUISER]

Like most things on a Land Cruiser they are overkill for most situations but together with everything else makes them indestructible in the harshest of situations.

For driving around fire roads you will never miss them.

 

[B y r o n]

They are meant to minimize water getting into the engine compartment. If you never do water crossings no need for them.

 

[thatcabledude]

I can’t even picture what you’re talking about.

 

[Grayscale]

My other truck is missing a fan shroud. Particularly during the winter, desalting sand gets all on top of the engine, idler pulley, Weber air cleaner pin holes form in front from high-velocity sand - is the fan picking up/ projecting abrasive out of the lower radiator area? Keep it factory, repair them, paint them, use good hardware with a fresh lockwasher to secure them, and install with anti-sieze. Don't change the low-pressure vacuum thru the engine bay without considering hot floor pans and (factory sheet metal) transmission hump - something melted my factory tar insulator on the floor, and I'm missing a few of the splash guards / air dams. The one by the clutch slave has a convenient drainage hole to route thru for 1/4-inch clear vinyl bleeder tube (bubble trap / loop) when changing out DOT3 on the clutch.