Specific info on lifts, caster, and driveshafts

[Brian Macgyver]

My 2 or 3 cents worth. I have stiff coils front and back for 3" lift in the rear. A spacer in front makes 4 1/4" lift in front. It handles perfectly with no castor correction. On the highway it is perfect. It is smooth and easy to drive. It has a light steering that I enjoy.
It is a bit stiff in the springs, but not too much, just the way I like it. On ice it drives like it is on dry gravel. It performs incredibly well. I still have the stock road tires. Those are Michelin and other street style 275 treads.
Many members do not realise what we deal with up here. Often our road may be sheet ice for several miles. The roads are just barely wider than a truck and they are pure ice. I just want to take my daughter out for a Sunday drive. The ice can be an issue! She enjoys our Sunday drives and we always have fun. She does not understand that her friends dads have Jeeps & Explorers that cannot do this stuff. They are OK on dry roads, but we go in any weather. We have a Land Cruiser. We love our truck!!
We do not care much about the weather, we just go! The problem that I have is that I let GOD wash my truck. But whenever he washes the truck, he also puts snow in the hills. Then I go up to see his frozen artwork and I end up mudding the truck up again! I just can't seem to get it clean and keep it that way!

 

[outbackoffroadgear]

Outback off-road 4"springs front and rear great ride
Outback off-road long arm kit 3 link in front 4 link in rear front caster is ajustable with 3 link great.

 

[CodyRx7]

850/863 J springs, L shocks, 1" Mr Gasket Spacers in front.

Still appears the slightest bit taller in the rear over the front even with a 35" spare mounted on the roof.

No caster correction yet (have Slee plates, will install soon)

There is a pretty obvious pull to the left after the lift which could not be fixed after it was taken to an alignment shop. I will update this post after the plates are installed to see if the pull to the left is gone or any less obvious.

 

[Beowulf]

Outback off-road 4"springs front and rear great ride
Outback off-road long arm kit 3 link in front 4 link in rear front caster is ajustable with 3 link great.

I cannot find any of this gear on your web site. Are you currently producing these kits for the 80-Series market?

-B-

 

[Brian Macgyver]

For an update on previous post; I put 315/75 Nittos on yesterday. Now it seems a bit too light in front with no caster correction. I may have to make an adjustment. With stock rubber and 3" lift, it was fine. Now it "dances" a bit, feeling light in front. The effect is more noticeable towing a 1000 lb trailer, which I do often. The tires made the difference, and now I need to adjust caster.
Personally, I don't like the look of the caster correction bushings. I have modified suspensions for many years, and I see those bushings limiting flex a lot. They are too stiff and have a smaller usable radius for movement. I would prefer to slot the holes in the axle brackets to adjust. To do this, remove the front arm bolts. Find thick mild steel washers that fit the bolts tightly, or drill some to fit. Use 4 washers. Slot the holes in the axle brackets to move the caster as needed. Tilt the axle and drive it in several positions until the handling feels right to you. Then weld the washers in place to make the adjustment permanent.

 

[outbackoffroadgear]

FJ80 long arm kit

We are waiting on parts from our supplier we hop to start sell them in 3 to 4 weeks .
Have the 1st RND done in 2 weeks

 

[Brian Macgyver]

Another update; I adjusted caster the old-fashioned way. Here is how I did it.
I lifted the front and put it on stands at the front arm perch on each side. I have 2 floor jacks, one 3-ton large frame and a portable 2-ton.
I loosened the front arm bushing bolts and removed the rear ones. I placed a pipe clamp on the center of the axle with the stem facing foreward. I put my light jack under the end of the clamp and jacked it up to tilt the axle top toward the back of the truck. Then I used a die grinder with a carbide burr to "slot" the bolt holes for the rear bushings. I moved the holes about 3/8 inch and got three degrees of rotation from it. I simply cut out the holes to fit the bushings in the new position. I cut the holes out until the bolts fit into the bushings in the new location.
I got four 1/2" washers (9/16" ID) and drilled them out to 5/8" ID with a step drill. I ground the surface of the bracket clean of paint and scale. I put the washers over the bolts and nuts. Those washers will be welded to the bracket later when I am satisfied with the correction. The back bushings were the toughest to do. It takes patience. I may need to do the front ones later, and they will be easier.
To tighten the bolts I have a trick. I place the socket end of a 21" breaker bar on the bolt. I put the other end of the breaker on the little jack. Then I pump up the jack. This tightens the bolt to well over 200 ft. lb's.
I started at zero caster and ended at about three degrees negative. This may be enough to make the truck handle well. If it is not, I will slot the front holes as well. The washers that keep the change permanent can be welded on later.

 

[landtank]

Another update; I adjusted caster the old-fashioned way. Here is how I did it.
I lifted the front and put it on stands at the front arm perch on each side. I have 2 floor jacks, one 3-ton large frame and a portable 2-ton.
I loosened the front arm bushing bolts and removed the rear ones. I placed a pipe clamp on the center of the axle with the stem facing foreward. I put my light jack under the end of the clamp and jacked it up to tilt the axle top toward the back of the truck. Then I used a die grinder with a carbide burr to "slot" the bolt holes for the rear bushings. I moved the holes about 3/8 inch and got three degrees of rotation from it. I simply cut out the holes to fit the bushings in the new position. I cut the holes out until the bolts fit into the bushings in the new location.
I got four 1/2" washers (9/16" ID) and drilled them out to 5/8" ID with a step drill. I ground the surface of the bracket clean of paint and scale. I put the washers over the bolts and nuts. Those washers will be welded to the bracket later when I am satisfied with the correction. The back bushings were the toughest to do. It takes patience. I may need to do the front ones later, and they will be easier.
To tighten the bolts I have a trick. I place the socket end of a 21" breaker bar on the bolt. I put the other end of the breaker on the little jack. Then I pump up the jack. This tightens the bolt to well over 200 ft. lb's.
I started at zero caster and ended at about three degrees negative. This may be enough to make the truck handle well. If it is not, I will slot the front holes as well. The washers that keep the change permanent can be welded on later.

I don't see where this is applicable to this thread. I'd delete this here and start a new thread with pictures for others to see. Once your done, have the alignment shot and come back here with the results and a link to your other thread outlying what you did.

From what I got this thread was supposed to be used as a guide for the results people got from different lifts, not a venue for advertising future products or disclosing new techniques of correction.

 

[Romer]

1997 LX450
850J and 863J
2 degre Castor correction
weighted down with front and rear bumpers, Dual Batts, Supercharger, Sliders and Drawer setup

Had my Toe set today and a full alignment so finally have some values

Is Cross Castor more importnat than one side or the other?

The above values are after the tow was set

Front Left
Camber .2
Castor 1.8
Toe .08

Front Right
Camber 0.0
Castor 2.1
Toe .09

Front
Cross Camber .1
Cross Castor -.2
Total Toe .17

I was surprised that with only the OME 2 deg bushings and an effective 3" lift that I am good with Castor.

It drives great and never notoiced a castor issue

 

[landtank]

I was surprised that with only the OME 2 deg bushings and an effective 3" lift that I am good with Castor.

might have something to do with the extra weight on the truck. What is your hub to flare measurements.

 

[Romer]

might have something to do with the extra weight on the truck. What is your hub to flare measurements.

22.5" from Hub center to bottom of flare, both front and rear

 

[landtank]

22.5" from Hub center to bottom of flare, both front and rear

I think most trucks tend to be an inch or so higher in the rear than being the same as you are. That would subtract from the caster as well. Is the back of the truck full of spares?

 

[Romer]

I think most trucks tend to be an inch or so higher in the rear than being the same as you are. That would subtract from the caster as well. Is the back of the truck full of spares?

Yes,
I have been wanting to add 1/2" or so to the back. The rear has my slee bumper, 100lb Spare Toyo,, Engle, Drawers with spare parts and tools.