What is the actual tire size you are running? Is it a 285, 295, or 315 width tire? And i didn't see any mention of spacers. I'm running 1/4" spacers with my 315's and I think most others are too.
SPC UCA owners... GET IN HERE!!! (caster settings)
- Thread starter pfran42
- Start date
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Edit: my squeaking was from the rock slider frame bracket contacting the floor pan sheet metal.
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Was it squeaking?
Just to follow up, after investigating today, my squeak was the slider bracket contacting the floor pan...it had slid up after our last trip into death valley..i even lubed the shock shaft on the icons as someone else posted to check that in another thread.
benc
Supporting Vendor
I had to have mine replaced after about 10k miles, slee replaced both of the and said they had a bad batch. I was just informed a couple weeks ago that the new ball joints are no good! About 4k miles on these ones. Frustrating to say the least!
It doesn't sound like it will be as easy to get the second set warranted out.
How many of you guys have had problems with the spc ball joints?
5 months and over 15,000 miles on mine. So far no issues and I really hope it stays that way!
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Ben
did they show you that they were bad? 4k on a set does not make sense for them to be worn again. What shocks are you running?
We have not had a single failure on the latest batch of joints. If they are loose and there is nothing in the suspension setup that is causing this I would suggest we get in contact with SPC engineering and have them comment on it.
Can you get a video of how the shop evaluated it?
Bloomer
SILVER Star
Anyone know if there is a before/after date for the ball joint that experienced failure and the new ball joint that replaced it? I purchased and installed a set earlier this year? No problems yet, but I've only driven it maybe 3,500 miles since the install.
Running OEM shocks until recently switching to ICONs w/ CDC, OME 2.5 inch lift with Slee diff drop.
Running OEM shocks until recently switching to ICONs w/ CDC, OME 2.5 inch lift with Slee diff drop.
benc
Supporting Vendor
Your right, it does not make sense!
But sure enough I did the front wheel bearing service and still have some movement in the tire. Its pretty simple to evaluate, jack the front end up, grab the top and bottom of the tire and see if there is movement. The wheel bearings are good as well as the lower ball joints, I can put my hand on the upper and feel the movement.
I am running ome lift and shocks, and we all know the ome shocks will not allow the suspension to over extend.
Also the ball joints are not directional and can not be installed wrong/ backwards,
I will likely be going a different route on the upper control arms, I can deal with one failure but not 2. It's not worth it on a vehicle that I frequently load up the family and drive 1000s of miles at a time.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
I am sure SPC would like to hear of this since they have not reported any failures of the new joints to us. When you say upper, is that you feel the actual upper joint while moving the tire, or you have feel the tire move.
They can be installed backward, but they would be so far of that you most likely would not get the vehicle aligned.
I would gladly put you in touch with the correct people at SPC. They are very responsive to any technical issues we ever had.
benc
Supporting Vendor
I put my hand on the upper ball joint while someone was moving the tire.
And yes there is no way the vehicle would align with the ball joint backwards. The ball joint are installed where they need to be for alignment. I installed them myself twice now and have no doubts that they are installed correctly.
I am also 100% sure there is nothing causing this other than a defective product.
Is there any way I may have gotten some of the old batch? Are there any numbers on the ball joints that would be different from the new ones?
I will let spc know about the problem but like I said for me 2 failures on a crucial suspension component such as a upper ball joint within 15k miles is not worth the risk to try a 3rd time. Luckily I am not paying a shop to replace them! And while I know you can mark where the old ones were set, an alignment check is a must after any suspension work.
If you could let me know who to contact at spc that would be great.
On that note, anyone want a set of gently used spc control arms with new ball joints. [emoji4]
And yes there is no way the vehicle would align with the ball joint backwards. The ball joint are installed where they need to be for alignment. I installed them myself twice now and have no doubts that they are installed correctly.
I am also 100% sure there is nothing causing this other than a defective product.
Is there any way I may have gotten some of the old batch? Are there any numbers on the ball joints that would be different from the new ones?
I will let spc know about the problem but like I said for me 2 failures on a crucial suspension component such as a upper ball joint within 15k miles is not worth the risk to try a 3rd time. Luckily I am not paying a shop to replace them! And while I know you can mark where the old ones were set, an alignment check is a must after any suspension work.
If you could let me know who to contact at spc that would be great.
On that note, anyone want a set of gently used spc control arms with new ball joints. [emoji4]
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Well, I've been following this thread for a while as I get torque steer when making a turn and really hitting the throttle. I have had three alignments within the past 3 months and it's just not right.
OME Lift
Slee Diff Drop
SPC UCAs - Set at position "C"
OME NitroCharger shocks
285/65 18
I just measured my static height and I'm 22 3/8" and droop out at 24". I think I over cranked the T bars after installing the ARB Bumper and winch a year ago.
Going to go drop the front to 21.5 right now
OME Lift
Slee Diff Drop
SPC UCAs - Set at position "C"
OME NitroCharger shocks
285/65 18
I just measured my static height and I'm 22 3/8" and droop out at 24". I think I over cranked the T bars after installing the ARB Bumper and winch a year ago.
Going to go drop the front to 21.5 right now
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Preparing to install the SPC UCA's and have some initial set up and alignment questions:
- Front lift height: 22"
- Diff drop (yes/no) NO
- Tire size 33.2" (275/70-18)
- Wheel spacers (yes/no) - if yes, (width) YES +30mm
- Caster star plate settings (A, B, C,...) TBD (D or C)
- Any other useful data? Post Lift Alignment Specs with Factory UCA
Seems that most peeps here started with "D" (+1 degree) caster correction setting on the spc balljoint. If following the SPC instructions of setting the factory UCA mounting bolt/Cam adjusters to the Center position: does anyone know how much additional range of adjustment in degrees can you get out of the UCA Cam adjusters? Is it .5 degree, 1 degree, 1.5 degrees +/-? This will help me determine where I initially set the SPC caster correction at "D" or maybe "C" as a starting point.
For reference factory caster settings are spec'd at 2.5 degrees +/- .75 of a degree. Thats a range of (1.75 to 3.25). Now no one has brought up the point that the factory settings are based on stock tire sizes, and no suspension lift and what the acceptable correction would be compensating for oversized tires, with lifted suspension, and wheel spacers. Obviously larger tires, lifted suspension (especially cranked TB's) and wheel spacers will require different than standard recommended alignment specs. Has anyone come up with an adjusted acceptable range for caster settings based on those factors?
My adjustment cams are currently maxed out to get the most caster. Starting in position D effectively gets me to 2.2 & 2.3 with some available minor adjustment left on the cam. Is 2.2 enough caster for the added height & weight of the 33" tires, lifted suspension and spacers? Does it track well with 2.2-2.5 degrees of caster? Or would you suggest a bit more? My instinct says closer to 3 or more as a base line, but I really have no idea the impact of running over 3-3.5 or 4 degrees of caster has on the wheel bearing life, ball joint life and steering components.
Educated thoughts?
EDIT: Epilogue 09/07/16 (171,300)
Post SPC Adjustable UCA install the alignment numbers have been greatly improved.
Getting the UCA's off was more trouble than installing the new ones. Passenger side cam adjustment bolt was frozen/rusted to the inside of the bushing. Took longer to extract that than installing both UCA's. Hint: order new cam adjustment bolts & nuts for both UCA's. The old rusted ones were compromised, and the alignment tech will appreciate working with non-rusted hardware.
The new SPC ball joints feature a zerk fitting for grease service of the ball joint. Use a few pumps of moly fortified grease after install.
SPC Caster Correction Initial Setting: Because my initial caster was near 1.2 and the cam adjuster was at max adjustment, I set the SPC caster correction at setting "C". I installed the new cam adjusters in the center position. This worked out great, and required just a little fine tuning of the adjustment cams on the alignment rack.
Moderately easy install. No air tools required, just a decent breaker bar and a good torque wrench. Expect to spend about 2 to 2.5 hours set up to clean up to complete this job if everything comes apart with out trouble.
Update: 1/16/18 184,873
13,000+ miles on the SPC UCA. All good. The new style greasable ball joints are performing well. Poly bushings are not showing signs of wear, and are not making any noise.
- Front lift height: 22"
- Diff drop (yes/no) NO
- Tire size 33.2" (275/70-18)
- Wheel spacers (yes/no) - if yes, (width) YES +30mm
- Caster star plate settings (A, B, C,...) TBD (D or C)
- Any other useful data? Post Lift Alignment Specs with Factory UCA
- Caster: Left 1.2 Right 1.3
- Camber: Left -0.2 Right 0.0
- Toe: Left 0.03 Right 0.04
- Lift Front: 22" Hub center to fender lip
- Lift Rear: 23.5" Hub center to fender lip
- Droop Front: 65mm (2.56 inches)
- Ironman Foam cell Pro, Toy13B rear springs (0-200Kg added weight), Ironman TB's
Seems that most peeps here started with "D" (+1 degree) caster correction setting on the spc balljoint. If following the SPC instructions of setting the factory UCA mounting bolt/Cam adjusters to the Center position: does anyone know how much additional range of adjustment in degrees can you get out of the UCA Cam adjusters? Is it .5 degree, 1 degree, 1.5 degrees +/-? This will help me determine where I initially set the SPC caster correction at "D" or maybe "C" as a starting point.
For reference factory caster settings are spec'd at 2.5 degrees +/- .75 of a degree. Thats a range of (1.75 to 3.25). Now no one has brought up the point that the factory settings are based on stock tire sizes, and no suspension lift and what the acceptable correction would be compensating for oversized tires, with lifted suspension, and wheel spacers. Obviously larger tires, lifted suspension (especially cranked TB's) and wheel spacers will require different than standard recommended alignment specs. Has anyone come up with an adjusted acceptable range for caster settings based on those factors?
My adjustment cams are currently maxed out to get the most caster. Starting in position D effectively gets me to 2.2 & 2.3 with some available minor adjustment left on the cam. Is 2.2 enough caster for the added height & weight of the 33" tires, lifted suspension and spacers? Does it track well with 2.2-2.5 degrees of caster? Or would you suggest a bit more? My instinct says closer to 3 or more as a base line, but I really have no idea the impact of running over 3-3.5 or 4 degrees of caster has on the wheel bearing life, ball joint life and steering components.
Educated thoughts?
EDIT: Epilogue 09/07/16 (171,300)
Post SPC Adjustable UCA install the alignment numbers have been greatly improved.
- Caster: Left 2.7 Right 3.1
- Camber: Left -0.1 Right 0.1
- Toe: Left 0.03 Right 0.01
Getting the UCA's off was more trouble than installing the new ones. Passenger side cam adjustment bolt was frozen/rusted to the inside of the bushing. Took longer to extract that than installing both UCA's. Hint: order new cam adjustment bolts & nuts for both UCA's. The old rusted ones were compromised, and the alignment tech will appreciate working with non-rusted hardware.
The new SPC ball joints feature a zerk fitting for grease service of the ball joint. Use a few pumps of moly fortified grease after install.
SPC Caster Correction Initial Setting: Because my initial caster was near 1.2 and the cam adjuster was at max adjustment, I set the SPC caster correction at setting "C". I installed the new cam adjusters in the center position. This worked out great, and required just a little fine tuning of the adjustment cams on the alignment rack.
Moderately easy install. No air tools required, just a decent breaker bar and a good torque wrench. Expect to spend about 2 to 2.5 hours set up to clean up to complete this job if everything comes apart with out trouble.
Update: 1/16/18 184,873
13,000+ miles on the SPC UCA. All good. The new style greasable ball joints are performing well. Poly bushings are not showing signs of wear, and are not making any noise.
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how do you know if you were sold a bad batch of these
What does a backwards ball joint look like? I ask because I was told tonight after the shop installed them that mine are backwards. If so I’ll get them fixed ASAP. Here’s a pic...
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Looks to me like it's installed correctly, the bj should be offset outwards. I bet the offset bj had those guys scratching their heads and assuming it was installed backwards but it's not. Here's a pic taken from the instructions that show the correct orientation
Thanks, yeah we double checked and I let the guy that told me that know they were correct... come to find out, his were backwards, not mine.
