Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert! (2 Viewers)

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@dwh13 The back plugs were indeed kind of a pain in the butt to reach. Not as bad as my German car days though. One of the things I did when I changed my spark plugs on the 100 was to remove and document (take a picture of) each spark plug and boot/coil together while noting which 1-8 well it came from. Then when installing new spark plugs, I took the best looking coils/boots and reinstalled them in the least-accessible wells. Then I took the worst-looking coils/boots and reinstalled them in the most easily-accessible spark plug wells and documented where I installed them. I've never had an issue with the plugs/coils/boots before I did the routine spark plug change, but just in case some issue arises in the future I've got my money on the easily-accessible parts ;)
 
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Just checked mine after about 40k mi and they were still torqued to spec. I'll check again in 50k mi.
 
@dwh13 The back plugs were indeed kind of a pain in the butt to reach. Not as bad as my German car days though. One of the things I did when I changed my spark plugs on the 100 was to remove and document (take a picture of) each spark plug and boot/coil together while noting which 1-8 well it came from. Then when installing new spark plugs, I took the best looking coils/boots and reinstalled them in the least-accessible wells. Then I took the worst-looking coils/boots and reinstalled them in the most easily-accessible spark plug wells and documented where I installed them. I've never had an issue with the plugs/coils/boots before I did the routine spark plug change, but just in case some issue arises in the future I've got my money on the easily-accessible parts ;)
Brilliant! Thanks for the tip
 
On opening page you'll see suggested tools for the job. I've added a picture of set-up for #7 & #8.

For torque I use 15ft-lbf on new plugs when crush washer has not been crushed. I use 18ft-lbf on used plugs I'm reinstalling.

I just did other set in a SC 4.7L. Each plug was loose and was report with only about 20K miles on them. They all had some oil that blew by threads, puddling at bottom. Could be tube seal leaking, but I suspect wasn't tube seal, just loose plugs

We're also seeing more reports of plugs blowing out.
 
On opening page you'll see suggested tools for the job. I've added a picture of set-up for #7 & #8.

For torque I use 15ft-lbf on new plugs when crush washer has not been crushed. I use 18ft-lbf on used plugs I'm reinstalling.

I just did other set in a SC 4.7L. Each plug was loose and was report with only about 20K miles on them. They all had some oil that blew by threads, puddling at bottom. Could be tube seal leaking, but I suspect wasn't tube seal, just loose plugs

We're also seeing more reports of plugs blowing out.
One of my front plugs was loose with some oil on the plug and coil pack - the rest were dry so I'm hoping the oil was from the plug being loose and not from a leaking tube seal. I just replaced the valve cover gaskets and would love to not have to pull them again!
 
I did find all head cover bolts needed re-torquing to 53IN-lbf, always. I've hand a lot of luck stopping cover leak doing this. It's just part of what I do when R&R plugs. It seem to aid in tube seal also.
 
I did find all head cover bolts needed re-torquing to 53IN-lbf, always. I've hand a lot of luck stopping cover leak doing this. It's just part of what I do when R&R plugs. It seem to aid in tube seal also.
Awesome, I'll check them again.
 
Head cover AKA valve cover bolts 53IN-lbf thats INCH.
 
Got three off with no problem, then realized this boot went missing after I sprayed some PB blaster yesterday onto the plugs then drove to work. Is it ok to drive for a few days while I wait on a replacement to come in? And any ideas on where to source just this part, instead of having to buy the entire coil?
 
Denso sell a kit; boot, spring and seal. NAPA sell the seal but they want $7. Look to see if some coils are now double sealed, as you put back the coils and didn't notice. They are somewhere!

It's okay for a few days.
 
Ended up finding one at O’Reilly. Turns out it’s called a coil-on-plug insulator
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I notice the boot is slightly brown. Likely if you pinch the end of boot, you'll see cracking. Either case indicates aged boot. The Denso boot kit is worthwhile investment.
 
Direct Ignition Coil Boot Kit 671-8184
 
Teach a man to fish, you feed for a life time. .. Give the man a fish and he goes ! ................ LOL
 
I just swapped out plugs as a baseline for me. Mileage is 75k on an '06. The old plugs(NGK) looked great and the truck ran fine. I replaced with the Denso Iridium TT plug for the 2UZ-fe. Time will tell but the truck runs great, as it did before. I do wonder if it will help with the drone in D at a stop. I haven't driven it enough to tell if it helped or not. One thing of note is the TT plugs come with a gap of .039in./1mm, which is smaller than the Toyota gap of .043in./1.1mm. Denso says to not adjust the gap on these Iridium TT plugs so I installed them to see how it goes.

Anyway, I'm posting this here because the typical plugs of 3,4,5,6 that have been coming loose were looser in my engine than 1,2,7,8. I still needed a wrench to loosen them up, but they were noticeably looser than the outside cylinders. I'm sure they were torqued to spec by the PO. I torqued the new plugs to a mix of recommendations between Toyota and Denso. Toyota recommends 13ft/lb and Denso recommends 15-22 ft/lb. I split the difference at 17 ft/lb. 13 always seemed light to me as I've had vehicles with aluminum heads that used a spec of 25 ft/lb so I'm comfortable with 17.
 

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