Spark plug will not come out.. Doing a Base-Line.

[2001LC]

Working on a 00 100 series w/200K on the clock. Doing a base-line. The rig is in nice shape looks fairly well maintained and relatively rust free. Working on the rig I've had a few issues starting with missing bleed caps cause bleed to freeze in caliper.

Now I've one spark plug that will not come out. With my 3/8" breaker bar attached to a long extension I saw the extension flex, WOW. So I switched up to a 1/2" breaker set-up. I turn just a tad (~<1/64" turn) let rest 30 minutes then did again after soaking with PB blaster. I turn back tightening just a tad once. I then repeated turning just a tad every 30 minute or so. Moved/turned it maybe a <1/8 turn total, and it's not letting loose. I took great care to keep extension at perfect 90 deg so not to damage plug. But I was hearing/feeling a slight sound like glass fracturing. I decide to let sit over night with PB blaster soaking.

It was apparent by clues this was DIY job on last plug install. Like some sort of grease on plug and in coil boots, along with grease on coil wire connections, and all of LH bank and two of RH bank plugs not torqued. Those 6 plug didn't even need to be broke loose, but were all tight turning all the way out.

This one plug is #4, which is so easy to get at is being difficult. Only one other plug, which appears to have a new coil, felt torqued as normal (need to break loose) and turned out what I'd call normally. But this one (#4) is too difficult to turn, it really concerns me.

I've remove hundreds of plugs and have never seen any that would flex my 3/8" breaker.

Anyone seen this or have some thoughts on how to remove and what I've got going on?

I do have and idea of what may be going on, would like to see what board thinks is holding this one so tight.

Should I continue turning???

 

[camino70]

I wouldn't continue turning unless you and/or the owner are ready to deal with getting a broken plug out of the head.

Have you tried it after running, getting the heat up?

 

[2001LC]

Those are some of the same thoughts I'm having. I do not have time or tooling to deal with at this time.


What is your though on why this ones so difficult?

 

[camino70]

I'd assume someone cross threaded, panicked and torqued the snott out of it.

I'd have broken it by now...

 

[2001LC]

That is what I'm thinking "cross threaded"

 

[nissanh]

Even with cross threaded aluminum head cannot hold the plug that tight. Make sure the owner is ready to accept the outcome. Like what you did, loosen it a bit and tighten it again, then PB blast, soak, continue until the whole plug comes out.

My cousin's 99 Parthy did the same and finally snapped the hexagonal nut from the base. He was in a hurry, hope you or the owner are not.

 

[AimCOtaco]

I'd recommend he have you close it up and run it as is. This could easily lead to an un-driveable truck that needs a head pulled and repaired or replaced. If it's sparking he can just be aware and plan ahead while driving and enjoying the truck.... unless you really want to dig in.

Only other wrenching tips would be to strike the bolt on it's head to try and break the stiction but easier said than done with a recessed spark plug (as you can't hit the head but only the annular steel portion), the other option with a recessed plug would be to fill the recess with brake fluid or PB and see if it will seep in over some days and help.

Assuming the motor was running on all 8 then I'm guessing there was a lot of galvanic action and the plug threads and head threads are now one.

My brake bleeders are also naked and frozen, any tips there? Did you free them on the vehicle or on the bench?

 

[FxFormat]

Sounds like it was cross threaded, there is a special tool we use at my shop when F150 has that horrendous spark plug design where it snapped at the neck. Forgot what it’s called maybe google f150 spark plug tool and see if that might help take it out. I would crap my pants if I went to change spark plugs and it did what you are describing. Good luck.

 

[2001LC]

Even with cross threaded aluminum head cannot hold the plug that tight. Make sure the owner is ready to accept the outcome. Like what you did, loosen it a bit and tighten it again, then PB blast, soak, continue until the whole plug comes out.

My cousin's 99 Parthy did the same and finally snapped the hexagonal nut from the base. He was in a hurry, hope you or the owner are not.

With other 7 plug not needing to be broke loose, but tight all the way out. Then not being able to break loose once going up to a 1/2" bigger breaker bar, will I fear the worst. It possible he force in cross threading with a socket wrench, not realizing it was being cross threaded, then time made it worst. Indications are this PO had best of intention, just lack experience and the touch.

I did give one more cold then hot try, but nope not even a nudge this time.

I'd recommend he have you close it up and run it as is. This could easily lead to an un-driveable truck that needs a head pulled and repaired or replaced. If it's sparking he can just be aware and plan ahead while driving and enjoying the truck.... unless you really want to dig in.

Only other wrenching tips would be to strike the bolt on it's head to try and break the stiction but easier said than done with a recessed spark plug (as you can't hit the head but only the annular steel portion), the other option with a recessed plug would be to fill the recess with brake fluid or PB and see if it will seep in over some days and help.

Assuming the motor was running on all 8 then I'm guessing there was a lot of galvanic action and the plug threads and head threads are now one.

My brake bleeders are also naked and frozen, any tips there? Did you free them on the vehicle or on the bench?

Yep last night around midnight I decide that disabling the truck in my one stall, was very bad Idea. The Unicorn with it's blown engine sitting in the driveway jamming things up a bit. Along with The Black Knight waiting for a boot and bearing job plus s few little nasty to repair on it. I felt a night rest to ponder along with seeing what you guy's thought was best course of action. I could have given it the big mans 3/4 beaker a shot and crank it out. Small chance it would be fine. But experience said it wasn't find and that threads may not be repair with a thread repair tool. As you said "could lead to pulling heads" Tooling and parts could hank me up for a week or two. With no heat in the garage possible much longer.

We all are on the same page here Andy, don't take the chance od disabling!

So I swap out the fuel filter which was next on my list and put the coil back on #4. She fire right up and purred like a kitten. So now we've some time to plan and budget. I went on and finished the base-line which took me 16 hour. I've now some 40 qts of fluid to haul off, the most I've ever drained in one sitting. Did all but AHC, power steering and washer fluid. Other than the few issues like frozen bleeder & plug job went smooth for the most part as one can expect with 200K miles on the clock.

Andy I've had a number of frozen bleeder this and last year. I've removed all while on the rig. Method I use most is to shock it, as you mentioned. I usually start with taps and wacks, then put my deep 10MM 6 point socket on with 3/8" breaker, before going to heat. I keep one spare front and one rear bleeder in the garage just for this.

The brake bleeder are strong, and I've not snapped one yet. I tried different approaches if taps & wacks didn't work. I quickly learned squirting penetrating oil in the hole and capping is useless, as bleeder hole is generally plugged from rust. One think I've found works is heating (with fire extinguisher nearby). I'll heat the bleeder enough so caliper just starts to get hot around it, keeping in mind a rubber seal is nearby. Then squirt PB blaster around threads. Heat seems to draw penetrating oil into threat like when sweating a copper pipe. I'll do this a few time, rapidly cool with wet ice rag last few times for shock value. Then PB and use a deep 6 point 10mm socket on a 3/8" breaker. Again starting turning only bit to start then rest. I try hot and sometimes cold, remembering to be patient.

But with brake bleed I'm not as concerned about busting. It's not going to disable unless it leaks which they don't, and I only need replace the caliper if it does. Additionally I figure if it does break it will lend itself to and easy-out for a second shot at it. I've not done this but it would be easy to drill out for and easy-out use, using hole as guide.

Sounds like it was cross threaded, there is a special tool we use at my shop when F150 has that horrendous spark plug design where it snapped at the neck. Forgot what it’s called maybe google f150 spark plug tool and see if that might help take it out. I would crap my pants if I went to change spark plugs and it did what you are describing. Good luck.

I'll look into it. I figured Dealers see this more than anyone and are best prepared to handle.

But for now I was so happy when fired up.


Here is what I'm seeing @AimCOtaco

 

[2001LC]

This was all about a base-line. Here's what I did:

Lube propeller shafts and spiders w/M1 grease. PM with every oil change.

Oil & filter. I use M1 synthetic 5W-30 an M1 synthetic oil filter. I do every 5k miles or 1 year whichever accrues first.

Brake fluid flush. I’m currently using Valvoline synthetic. Extra charge of $2.00 for each bleeder cap (4) that is needed.

4 new OEM Brake bleeders. 3 were bad and one was missing which effected bleeder by rusting.

R&R one rusted shut brake bleeder with new OEM bleeder.

Coolant flush w/8 gallon Distilled water and 2 gallons of Toyota Red 100% mix to 50/50%.

12 qts transmission flush (13 qts).

OEM Fuel filter. Replace every 90K. Cheap gas is causing us problems here.

Transfer case flush M1 synthetic gear lube. I do ever 25K or sooner.

Front differential flush M1 synthetic gear lube. I do ever 25K.

Rear differential flush M1 synthetic gear lube. I do ever 35K.

8 new Denso Spark plugs, 7 installed. Helps protect the very pricey coils. Nice do w/ Timing belt job at 90K miles.

5 AHC bleeders. 3 missing two bad.

Few extra not requested, that I took care of:

Wire brushed threads of skid plate and 2 under engine shield then applied marine grease. They were near seizing.

Battery post cleaning and greasing. New battery PepBoy tech left dry without cleaning off oxidation.

Cleaned MAF sensor while battery disconnected for 20 minutes to reset ECM.

Cleaned Throttle body. Use some BG Throttle Body Cleaner (TBC) ..,,.. WOW this stuff works great

Replace clip on back DS of engine cover that hold fuel return line. Keeps line from bouncing around and vibrating.

Topped off power steering, W/ ~1/2 qts M1 MV ATF.

Re-torqued head cover (valve cover) bolts.

Here a shot of The Black knight's Throttle Body after cleaning with BG TBC. It was so fast and easy. Just spray and wipe with micro fiber, DONE! WOW!!

 

[nissanh]

Wish my engine is that clean!
What happens if we clean the throttle body without removing it off the engine? The 5vzfe has its IAC at 6 O'clock position and all the residue goes right into the IAC if the throttle body is not removed from the engine prior to cleaning.
Thanks.

 

[2001LC]

We saw a big concern with solvent getting into gears of TB on 98-99 from @AimCOtaco some years ago. All 100 series have shaft at 3 & 9 o'clock. It was one reason I'd been using a lubricating cleaner for years, and now bought this stuff as it also states lubricates. I bought this at the Dealer wholesale counter where they keep the shops' supplies. It's what shop uses on all Toyota's is my understanding. I suppose one could soak a rag then wipe, certainly safer if concerned.

Can does to say: spray into throat while engine running with boot off (air box). Good luck keep it running that way. It goes on to say spray around the entire throttle plate and into air control valve passage. But, I just used a short burst on plate then wiped. Then open plate/buttery fly and again a short burst and wiped. Then I button up, started, idled and then took short drive. So far so good on two, this 00 and my 06.

I do feel this is safer for the 100 series than other products. As it made for this, sold at Dealer to their shop and is a BG product.

 

[Jeepster09]

I doubt spark plug cross threaded.....[possible but not likely]. What I have run into on plugs is usually carbon buildup on threads do to real long change intervals. My best guess would be to soak with power blaster again and let it soak. Another thought would be to try some de-carbonizing chemicals, possibly like sea foam threw a vacuum line when running and let it do a soak. Directions are usually on the can.

 

[Jeepster09]

Oh and good way on frozen brake bleeders is usually to heat screw up with torch till red and let cool. The heat with expansion breaks the rust free.

 

[2001LC]

I doubt spark plug cross threaded.....[possible but not likely]. What I have run into on plugs is usually carbon buildup on threads do to real long change intervals. My best guess would be to soak with power blaster again and let it soak. Another thought would be to try some de-carbonizing chemicals, possibly like sea foam threw a vacuum line when running and let it do a soak. Directions are usually on the can.View attachment 1569676

Only way to know is to get it out. I did recommended using 44K, and it does have or had a few drops of PB still on threads.

Indication are these plugs where replace DIY around 120K miles. So these had ~70K on them, not much for a 100 series to cause freezing up.

 

[2001LC]

Some other areas that need addressing on this rig:

Power Steering flush with R&R suction & return hoses. Leaking!
Vacuum hoses. Including PCV grommet, PCV valve and both PCV hoses & Power steering van pump vacuum hoses.
Radiator hoses.
Bleed ACH system and set torsion bar. Not lowering smoothly, had sudden drop last 1/2".
Stabilizer system needs rebuilding.
R&R coil springs.
Inspect steering column motors, not working.
Inspect DS mirror, auto tilt down not working in reverse.
Have Dealer replace #4 spark plug.
Heater Tee's looked newer, replace next coolant flush. Every 90K miles or 7 years thereafter.
Inspect steering rack, bushing & TRE
Service wheel bearing at each 30K miles.
Inspect front differential bushings & stops.
R&R under windshield rust.
R&R rear hatch upper door rust.
R&R muffler, has a rust hole.

Front stabilizer bushing, links, cushions and bar all looking tired.

Power steering leaks

Vacuum line with hole

 

[2001LC]

A few more extras to consider:

R&R fuel pressure regulator.
Fuel injector cleaning, rebuilding and testing.
When to replace fuel injectors

Let me know if you need any more help my friend!

 

[Julian Stead]

Got to agree that it is most probably carbon build up but you never know. I spray oil down the tube and work the plug back and forth untill it moves freely, then turn it abit more and work back and forth again, repeat this over and over until removed. Eventually the pb plaster or similar will work its way down the threads and it will come out freely. It can be a very long tedious task.

 

[2001LC]

Carbon build up is the hope, but cross thread along with build-up or galvanic action is the fear. @AimCOtaco, @camino70, @nissanh, owner and I were all of like mind. That being; last thing we wanted was a disabled vehicle in my one stall, garage especially with freezing weather coming. Then me needing to tool up or possible pull a head off. Dealer have tools to knock this off fast. They'll turn spark plug without fear of breaking, so will put more force on it than I.

I did soak, try loosening and tighten over a few hours, then let soak overnight and tried cold, hot and after cool down warm. With 1/2" breaker. It stopped moving after first few time I did get a nudge the night before.

I've remove hundreds of plugs and have never seen any that would flex my 3/8" breaker extension. Then going to a 1/2" big boy and only being able to nudge at first, is really stuck.

Other spark plugs didn't indicate over torqued or that loosen allowed excessive carbon up. In fact most felt and looked as if under torque (left loose). Nor does engine performance indicate a problem coil or spark being fouled.

As I said, others didn't need breaking loose but turn hard all the way out. Indication are they were they all had some carbon built up on threads. I've seen this (loose plugs) a number of times, and they are harder to turn out. But not like this hard in my experience.


Here some picture of the plugs.

LH bank, Note: brown&black crud on seat of #3 plug. At first I thought oil tube seal at two plugs leaking. But it seems some PO used a grease in coils and on plugs, that glob fell to bottom and cooked at bottom of plug tube. I did not see glob at bottom of #4.

RH bank. # 4 spark plug missing as it's still in. #8 coil is missing from pictures as it's already back in.

 

[2001LC]

Here is some more pictures taken during base-line.

Need to test rear AHC pressure, which I'll bet is high.
Notice how plastic sleeve has twisted off lower coil spring, indicates excessive movement. May be sign coils have weakened passed usable life.

This was the rusty RH rear brake bleeder I replace it was only one without a cap.

Brakes need bleeding for sure.

BTW: After bleeding brakes Booster took 34 seconds to fill (draw for reservoir) perfect. FSM test calls for 30 to 40 seconds.