Spark plug will not come out.. Doing a Base-Line.

[2001LC]

Propeller shaft slide yokes were dry.

Aft shaft did push out a little old grease, but took 1/2 a tube to do it.

Took a lot of grease to fill and get to pass seals. I then bleed off excess pressure be remove grease zerks and low AHC to low.

 

[2001LC]

Lower radiator hose look as if had leaked at some point. Upper felt mushy.

 

[2001LC]

Fill plug of rear differential is getting a little rounded, wouldn't hurt to replace at next service.

 

[YodatheLC]

Do you by chance have the part numbers for vacuum lines ?

 

[bigredmachine]

Do you by chance have the part numbers for vacuum lines ?

you can use generic vacuum lines, itll be cheaper to buy a 5-6 ft length and replace whatever need to be replaced and have some left over

 

[suprarx7nut]

Spark plug still stuck? Have you tried running it hot and then removing immediately?

 

[2001LC]

To give parts numbers of Toyota direct replacements here would be confusing, as they are year dependent in many cases.

Sometimes cutting our lengthens of a hose makes senses.

Toyota sell 2' lengths #90999-92003 that are cheaper by the foot than 3' lengths #90999-92004 of the small vacuum lines. Possibly they sell that one larger diameter in lengths as well IDK. They fit perfect and are marked as replacements, which is nice.

Some hoses vacuum, fuel, coolant, transmission, steering I buy that are the Toyota OEM direct replacement, get very pricey. But most found at auto parts store either aren't a good fitment (SAE as opposed to Metric), not they quality of Toyota brand or wall thickness is different (thinner). But one like the 98-02 power steering return line, is not available from Toyota separately, so alternative must be found.

Here is one example of a vacuum hose assembly I'm now finding bad in most rigs. In some they are still "ok" but are going bad, so most be watched. Other's they are leaking now and must be replaced. This is the assembly coming off the power steering van pump. These have a number of bends, housings/covers and clips that makes pay the price worth just replacing with direct. There is at least three different part numbers depending on year, for this one. Main reason is we have different throttle bodies, second we have different intake manifolds, third we have different steering rack which may mean different van pumps IDK.

06-07 van pump hose assembly. I've just order two set of this one. Last time it took three weeks to get. I did just get word, they'll be in this time in 5 business days from order date.

Notice cracking of these at van pump. This is from The Black Knight 06 LC with very low mileage, supper clean rig. They're not currently leaking, but may if removed even once. Stages I see are: stiffness, cracking, shrinkage (loose). Stiffness is when I put on watch list. Cracking schedule replacement at next service interval as a PM. Shrinkage and they are not serviceable and must be replaced.

Some hose have very tight bends that a cutting lengthen of hose just can't make. Or hose has some clip or hosing that it's just better to go with OEM direct replacement.

 

[nissanh]

I believe the flower bed sprinkler lines work well too. It withstand the temperatures as I use those lines to sprinkle cold water into the AC condenser during the hot summer months (not in my cruiser)

 

[2001LC]

Spark plug still stuck? Have you tried running it hot and then removing immediately?

YES.

I did after first "nudging" and soaking over night with PB: The next (cold) morning I tried cold, then ran until hot and tried again, then let cool somewhat and tried again. I was using my beefy 1/2 breaker bar with 1/2" very beefy extension. I could not even nudge the second day. Sure I could have put more muscle on it, but risk was high. It may not be cross threaded but risk was still high it would break in head.

Having a 3/8" extension flex the night before was unsettling, so I may have held back a bit. But took the 1/2" just to nudge, not good!

Owner and I decided to leave in for now, as engine ran fine. To my knowledge he's not had any issue or taken to Toyota/Lexus Dealer, as I recommended he do now or for sure if issues arises. Issues like CEL indicating cylinder or coil #4 miss-fire.

We both agree to this as did first few post here "to leave in or risk a disabled vehicle" which neither of us wanted. Dealer's shops see this type of issues and have tooling for worst case scenario, that I do not. Nor did it make sense for me to tool for worst case scenario, for this one off case.

The was first time I've left a job undone, but feel it was best decision for the moment. Had it been my rig, I'd been temped to muscle it.

At this point we're happy with outcome!

 

[2001LC]

I believe the flower bed sprinkler lines work well too. It withstand the temperatures as I use those lines to sprinkle cold water into the AC condenser during the hot summer months (not in my cruiser)

IDK if that's a good idea. Automotive is engineered for high heat and chemicals, drip line for UV.

 

[mkivtdi]

View attachment 1574030
Notice cracking of these at van pump. This is from The Black Knight 06 LC with very low mileage, supper clean rig. They're not currently leaking, but may if removed even once. Stages I see are: stiffness, cracking, shrinkage (loose). Stiffness is when I put on watch list. Cracking schedule replacement at next service interval as a PM. Shrinkage and they are not serviceable and must be replaced.
View attachment 1574031


Some hose have very tight bends that a cutting lengthen of hose just can't make. Or hose has some clip or hosing that it's just better to go with OEM direct replacement.

Excuse my ignorance, but, what is that pump??? Back when I acquired my LX, I ended up having to replace the radiator after it cracked. After reassembly, I had a CEL on for a vacuum leak. It was those two hoses (mine were also cracked a bit like yours) which I forgot to reattach upon reassembly.

And I never really understood what they were for...

Sorry for the derail -- love how thorough the PM is though!

 

[2001LC]

It is the VAN pump (AKA power steering pump). The vacuum hose attaches to the control valve of the VAN pump at lower end. The upper end one attaches to air box. The other to the intake, point of attachment is year dependent.

 

[suprarx7nut]

YES.

I did after first "nudging" and soaking over night with PB: The next (cold) morning I tried cold, then ran until hot and tried again, then let cool somewhat and tried again. I was using my beefy 1/2 breaker bar with 1/2" very beefy extension. I could not even nudge the second day. Sure I could have put more muscle on it, but risk was high. It may not be cross threaded but risk was still high it would break in head.

Having a 3/8" extension flex the night before was unsettling, so I may have held back a bit. But took the 1/2" just to nudge, not good!

Owner and I decided to leave in for now, as engine ran fine. To my knowledge he's not had any issue or taken to Toyota/Lexus Dealer, as I recommended he do now or for sure if issues arises. Issues like CEL indicating cylinder or coil #4 miss-fire.

We both agree to this as did first few post here "to leave in or risk a disabled vehicle" which neither of us wanted. Dealer's shops see this type of issues and have tooling for worst case scenario, that I do not. Nor did it make sense for me to tool for worst case scenario, for this one off case.

The was first time I've left a job undone, but feel it was best decision for the moment. Had it been my rig, I'd been temped to muscle it.

At this point we're happy with outcome!

Totally makes sense. I probably would have just cranked it out and sheared the plug off in the head! I wonder if an impact would knock it loose without damage, but perhaps that's a question better left unanswered, haha.

 

[2001LC]

I've since searched some on tools for the worst case job. Found some that claim metal insert can be safely installed without removing head, and #4 is one of easiest to get at. They ranged from $250 to $500. I've not checked, but would estimate Dealer would charge in this range, if worst case. They'd also have in and out in a day most likely.

I would have needed time to tool up a pricey tool I'll not likely need again (knock on wood).

But still getting metal shavings or specs in cylinder is a big concern I'd have.

Had it not fired up or run very badly, story would be different. In that event owner would have to buy me the tools tying up the rig in my garage or have towed to Dealer. Both promised to be more costly in worst case.

 

[nissanh]

A cousin of mine did the same thing to his pathfinder 99 and ended up doing the timesert. While he was drilling out the stuck spark plug threads, he broke the drill bit in half snapping right at the level of the broken spark plug. Imagine drilling a high carbon steel! Anyways, he got it fixed but probably there were few shavings that didn't come out and now he has to add about 1 quart of oil for 200-300 miles.

 

[flintknapper]

YES.

I did after first "nudging" and soaking over night with PB: The next (cold) morning I tried cold, then ran until hot and tried again, then let cool somewhat and tried again. I was using my beefy 1/2 breaker bar with 1/2" very beefy extension. I could not even nudge the second day. Sure I could have put more muscle on it, but risk was high. It may not be cross threaded but risk was still high it would break in head.

Having a 3/8" extension flex the night before was unsettling, so I may have held back a bit. But took the 1/2" just to nudge, not good!

Owner and I decided to leave in for now, as engine ran fine. To my knowledge he's not had any issue or taken to Toyota/Lexus Dealer, as I recommended he do now or for sure if issues arises. Issues like CEL indicating cylinder or coil #4 miss-fire.

We both agree to this as did first few post here "to leave in or risk a disabled vehicle" which neither of us wanted. Dealer's shops see this type of issues and have tooling for worst case scenario, that I do not. Nor did it make sense for me to tool for worst case scenario, for this one off case.

The was first time I've left a job undone, but feel it was best decision for the moment. Had it been my rig, I'd been temped to muscle it.


At this point we're happy with outcome!

I had 3 plugs on my 99 that were like that. One of them really tight.

I'd wager you can get the one you are having trouble with out, but it takes time. I had to soak mine with PB Blaster overnight. Then I'd get the slightest amount of movement from them. It made no difference (on mine) whether the engine was cold or hot.

The trouble is: There is carbon on the exposed threads on the cylinder and likely a Galvanic Reaction between the plug and the aluminum head on the unexposed threads.

What you want to avoid is pulling a thread or 'galling' the thread such that aluminum balls up on the thread of the spark plug. At that point...its game over.

I found that trying to the run the plug back 'down'...after getting it to loosen some MADE IT WORSE! I know that lots of folks recommend that, but we aren't 'tapping' a thread and any broken/loosened up oxidation of the unexposed threads has no where to go anyway. We don't care about the carbon on the lower threads, it isn't as hard...and will come off.

So...soak it. Turn it (even if just a little). Then STOP. As soon as you feel the resistance 'hit the wall' STOP. And if you feel any 'chattering'...STOP. Soak it again for several hours then come back to it.

I was getting only small amounts of movement from mine at first. Then it increased to about an 1/8th of a turn, then got a little better (1/4 turn). Stayed like that until it got to the portion of the threads that only had carbon on them. At that point you could really feel the difference and I was no longer afraid to go ahead and just back it the rest of the way out.

Remember, even a slight amount of movement...is creating a lot heat. So let the plug threads cool after each attempt and keep them soaked down with penetrating oil. Once you get to the point that you are getting 1/4 turns (before it seizes up) you are probably home free...(with respect to NOT pulling the threads in the head). It took me soaking the plugs overnight, then all the next day (a few hours at time) before I got mine to break loose. You can't hurry it.

But that plug has got to come out at some point.

 

[2001LC]

I had 3 plugs on my 99 that were like that. One of them really tight.

I'd wager you can get the one you are having trouble with out, but it takes time. I had to soak mine with PB Blaster overnight. Then I'd get the slightest amount of movement from them. It made no difference (on mine) whether the engine was cold or hot.

The trouble is: There is carbon on the exposed threads on the cylinder and likely a Galvanic Reaction between the plug and the aluminum head on the unexposed threads.

What you want to avoid is pulling a thread or 'galling' the thread such that aluminum balls up on the thread of the spark plug. At that point...its game over.

I found that trying to the run the plug back 'down'...after getting it to loosen some MADE IT WORSE! I know that lots of folks recommend that, but we aren't 'tapping' a thread and any broken/loosened up oxidation of the unexposed threads has no where to go anyway. We don't care about the carbon on the lower threads, it isn't as hard...and will come off.

So...soak it. Turn it (even if just a little). Then STOP. As soon as you feel the resistance 'hit the wall' STOP. And if you feel any 'chattering'...STOP. Soak it again for several hours then come back to it.

I was getting only small amounts of movement from mine at first. Then it increased to about an 1/8th of a turn, then got a little better (1/4 turn). Stayed like that until it got to the portion of the threads that only had carbon on them. At that point you could really feel the difference and I was no longer afraid to go ahead and just back it the rest of the way out.

Remember, even a slight amount of movement...is creating a lot heat. So let the plug threads cool after each attempt and keep them soaked down with penetrating oil. Once you get to the point that you are getting 1/4 turns (before it seizes up) you are probably home free...(with respect to NOT pulling the threads in the head). It took me soaking the plugs overnight, then all the next day (a few hours at time) before I got mine to break loose. You can't hurry it.

But that plug has got to come out at some point.

What size breaker did you use?

I agree; some day it will have to come out, the sooner the better.

BTW: This is more or less what I did. But next day would not budge!

 

[flintknapper]

What size breaker did you use?

I agree; some day it will have to come out, the sooner the better.

BTW: This is more or less what I did. But next day would not budge!

Used a long 3/8" breaker bar and extension. The extension would actually 'flex' some under the pressure applied (an ominous feeling)...but I felt like it gave me the best feedback, so I did not move up to a 1/2".

I'm not trying to persuade you to go back after it (right now), but eventually...that plug is going to have to come out.

A couple of mine also felt as if they just wouldn't budge...and it was worrisome that I was going to snap something...or worse yet, get that 'mushy' feeling when the threads in the aluminum head pull out. But...mine actually moved (just a little) with more force...and then got a little better after a lot of soaking and waiting.

 

[2001LC]

Thought I update thread with some work done in February.

Took care of leaky power steering suction & return hoses by replacing. Along with cleaning reservoir and flush power steering with M1 ATF.

 

[2001LC]

Also replace both PCV hoses, PCV valve & grommet.