Spark plug torque

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Joined
Dec 9, 2004
Threads
27
Messages
484
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14 mins from the bus
I need the torque for the spark plugs.

I did a quick search & didn't find anything.
My FSM is "ordered".

Thanks for the help, and you can bust my balls all you want, just give me the # please.
 
15 lb-ft
 
OK,


14 and a half then..........:flipoff2:
 
Thanks

there will be a little extra in your check this week
 
1)Tighten till it loosens then back off a half turn . 2) Wait till it blows the plug out of the hole with the threads from the head still on it 3) send mucho dollars to Cdan for a new head and parts needed for replacement . This step also lets you take care of any head gasket/PHH issues before they arise :eek:


:D
 
Tighten by wrench until you feel real resistance, not just screw in resistance. Turn 1/2 turn past that and you are good.
 
Aw just crank on it till it feels like its gonna snap. Least dats wat FSIMIG :princess: told me. :doh:
 
Whatever you do, put some anti-sieze on the threads, and use some dielectric grease to keep the rubber boots from sticking to the spark plug.

DougM
 
Koffer said:
This step also lets you take care of any head gasket/PHH issues before they arise :eek:


:D

I 've seen someone say this before, but can someone explain to me how replacing the head gasket provides easier access to the PHH. Unless I've been looking at the wrong thing, the PHH is on the opposite side and towards the rear of the block, so I don't see the advantage of having the head off to change the PHH.

Thanks,
Rookie2
 
Rookie2 said:
I 've seen someone say this before, but can someone explain to me how replacing the head gasket provides easier access to the PHH. Unless I've been looking at the wrong thing, the PHH is on the opposite side and towards the rear of the block, so I don't see the advantage of having the head off to change the PHH.

Thanks,
Rookie2

You must be thinking about the exhaust manifolds which is on the opposite side. The head is what is on top of the block. With the head off the PHH is easier to get too and should be removed to get the head off... or is the PHH connected to the head... either or it's a good time to change it.
 
PHH issues are related to the HG issues from the standpoint that a PHH failure may lead to a HG failure as the block drains, dries and overheats.

DougM
 
having just recently changed out the phh (took me 3 days to sober up afterwards) i can offer the following: damn, damn and more damn. anything and everthing that could be removed prior would, in my opinion, make access easier. having the head off would allow you to actually see the bracket bolts live and in person. 112K, bulging and damp. used black gates hose and stock clamps (sans the roll pin one) = no leaks so far. removed the pipe completely and yes i did get the bottom bolt back in (YEAH BABY!!!!!) thanks to the little bitch hands hands that i have (yes, hung the same way) and multiple sacrifices to the skin gods. one thing that i did note (not seen mentioned anywhere else in faq), used a disposable scaple to cut the section on the block pipe off. much smaller blade than standard utility knife or razor blade, helped lots.
 

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