Spare tire lowering problem

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WarDamnEagle

WarDamnEagle

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OK this might be the dumbest thread that I've ever started but here goes anyway.

If you look at the photo of our aftermarket bumper you can see that there is no way to use the OEM tire lowering tool to crank the spare tire up or down. Rather than modifying the bumper with a hole, I am thinking about cutting the tool to shorten it and having a socket welded on to the end so that I can use a 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet between the spare tire and the bumper to ratchet the tire up or down.

Has anyone else had this problem and solved it a different way (other than carrying the tire somewhere else)?

We have had the tire in the back since installing the bumper but I'm ready to get it back underneath. It was my ultimate intention to install a roof rack and carry the tire up there but I priced a custom one made out of aluminum tubing and decided that I had better things to spend money on at the moment.
Back left side no tag.webp
 
Devilmans Hand said:
sounds like it would work. The PO of my rear bumper cut a hole after the fact. You might be able to use an eye-hook too so you don't have to cut your bar.
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That's a good idea. I probably wasn't going to actually cut the bar but it was easier to explain that way. I have some old 3/8" long extensions. Maybe an eye hook on one end and a socket on the other would work.
 
Not a dumb thread. When I got issued my brand new Ford F250 4x4 for work, it had a factory installed service bed and brand new heavy duty rear bumper. One week later had a flat in the middle of nowhere, no shade 103*. Went to put on the spare.....no hole in the bumper or any way to remove the spare. Luckily my cordless drill was charged and I had to make an educated guess where to drill a hole. I lucked out. At least you are going to remedy your problem before you get stuck!
 
mine actually went above the stock bumper, but if that is all you are needing then you are good, my mechanism with the chain was froze solid with rust, i had to cut the chain with a torch to get mine down.

that is why i have the hillbilly spare tire rack on my bumper.
 
If your idea of rigging a shorter rod to a socket wrench does not work then I would drill a hole round or cut a square, and weld a sleeve into the cut out so that it is enclosed and sealed. This would be my preference. Second option may be to notch a square out of from the top as deep as you need and sleeve it so it it sealed. I need to do this for my Smitty built bumper on my fj60. I will end up notching mine with some square tube laying around. Cut to fit, trim, and weld in.

I will put up a picture once I get it done but it may be a while yet. Low on the to do list right now.
 
skidplate said:
Luckily my cordless drill was charged and I had to make an educated guess where to drill a hole. I lucked out. At least you are going to remedy your problem before you get stuck!
Click to expand...

Note to self, inquire if DeWalt can be charged via my 12v plug or I get a converter. Heck w/ being sprawled all over the road/dirt. Plug a socket head onto my DeWalt, switch to reverse and it should take less than 15 seconds to lower my crap. :D
 
the socket idea would probably work.
but if you decided to go the route of no modification to the bumper,

i would kind of make like a speed wrench deal. ( thats what i have always called it, but i dont know if its the technical name) its basically a long extension with a giant u bent into it and a swivel handle on the end. hold the swivel handle and the offset "U" allows you to spin it around like a crank.

that way it would be all one piece and you wouldnt have to worry about finding a ratchet and it would probably still clip into the original holder space behind the cargo panel if you design it correctly.

just a thought.
 
The problem is the minimal clearance between the 31" spare tire and the bumper. That's why I was thinking ratchet. I'll have to put the spare and bumper back on but I'm thinking that there's no more than 4" or so between the two.
 
well that about kills that idea..



hey you know what would be really sick....if you rigged up an electric window motor to raise and lower it...those things are small and have loads of torque and all ready for 12 volts. just need some switches /relays.

that would be sick...but probably completely useless.:cheers:
 
WarDamnEagle - looks like you and I have the exact same problem.

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I welded a little piece of roundbar to the end of a 14mm bolt to make a T, then I carry like 4 or 5 long extensions and use my 3/8" rachet like you described. Takes forever, but it works. One of these days I want to build a tire carrier for the bumper, but like you I prefer to spend the money elsewhere since this method works for now.
 
Nice 4runner. My wife drove an '86 SR5 in that color for a while.

My 18 year old son is the one that drives the 4Runner at the moment and that's just to school and back. Not a problem if it takes some time to get the tire down just as long as it's possible. Glad to hear that someone has actually made the ratchet idea work. Thanks.
 
@bryan, yes, "speed wrench" is the correct term.
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2ndGenToyotaFan said:
I think the late model 2nd gen 4Runners (94-95) Or maybe the 96+ 4Runners had an offset crank mechanism, and it may be that you could modify one of these to get to the crank from a different angle...
Click to expand...

I ended up having to do that with my setup but even then, the angle point you need to go through is still basically the same factory hole.

Here's the diagram so you know the part #'s if you decide to go that route. Top half is the 2wd/28" tire option (VZN120 Chassis), the lower is for the 31/32" tire option (VZN130 Chassis), to fit a 33" you need to bend the bracket legs and slightly move the tailpipe so they'll fit and not get burnt.
SpareWheelCarrier2.webp
 
Well I solved this problem. It will be a pain to raise and lower the tire but at least it can be done. I took an old 1/2" extension and had it cut off to 12 inches. The shop then welded two tabs on each side out of 1/4" plate. The tabs are 1" long and 3/8" tall. I somehow measured wrong and with a 31" tire it would have been better if the extension had been about 13" but this way you have room to use a univeral joint which should help with the process. I haven't tried it with a universal yet but it works fine with a very short extension (1.5" +/-).

Pic of the tool and of the tire crank that the tool fits into (for posterity).
Tire tool 001.webp
Tire tool 003.webp
Spare tire lift.webp
 
Nice job on the tool. Here's one I made awhile ago to make it quicker to lower spares around the shop.

Tool 001.webp
Tool 002.webp

It can be made without a welder; 11mm socket with a 6mm bolt through it. The only drawback is it falls off the extension sometimes.
Tool 001.webp
Tool 002.webp
 
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