Solid Axle Swap (1 Viewer)

[OGBeno]

The correct PNs for a 105 chassis are the following:

51001-6A330
51001-6A340

And a couple of other.

Unfortunately, none are available through Toyota USA.
7x frames are available as are 7x axle housings, but no 105 series stuff.

 

[Taylor O]

This thread inspired me to spend hours looking all over the internet for a dana 60 and 14 bolt and then search all over ballistic fab for everything you need to fit them and it seems like you can get all the parts you need for under $5,000. It could be a decently inexpensive project if the majority of the work is done yourself. Pretty interesting. Definitely not interested in dropping the truck off at Slee with a check for $20,000...

 

[no-pistons]

Then what about the brakes, ABS, and all the sensor junk?

 

[sleeoffroad]

This thread inspired me to spend hours looking all over the internet for a dana 60 and 14 bolt and then search all over ballistic fab for everything you need to fit them and it seems like you can get all the parts you need for under $5,000. It could be a decently inexpensive project if the majority of the work is done yourself. Pretty interesting. Definitely not interested in dropping the truck off at Slee with a check for $20,000...

Not sure $5k in parts are going to get you there. Also, we looked at Dana 60's and such and could not get it to work properly with steering etc etc. You also have the issue of dealing with a 5 lug rear and a whatever lug front. Part of the cost is to modify the rear to match the front in terms of lift height, gear ratio etc.

Paul's with the True-Hi9 was the best solution we found. But at approx $3k for the diff alone, the $5k budget disappears in a hurry.

 

[Nottajeep]

Sounds easier to buy an 80 and drop in a V8.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Where we are currently, yes the v8 swap is easier. Problem these days is to locate a clean 80 as a starting point.

 

[AimCOtaco]

When I read the description of the Slee build it seemed to me that the coolest part of it all was that they did not comporomise.
-Kept the ABS which keeps the ATRAC for trucks so equiped, both nice features.
-Maintained good steering geometry for the highway.
-Maintained the SAME WHEELS front and rear which for real trail use is huge for me.
-Used parts avaliable from toyota worldwide where possible.
-Stayed Toyota where possible.
-I think the list even goes on.
The $$$ was due to so little compromise. Sure you could throw something togather for less but to hit all those points is no small feat. Just my opinion.

I'm still not sure I shouldn't have bought an 80 and done an engine swap myself... at the time we bought, the 100 was to be the wifes daily driver, now its a travel and adventure rig only and the powered up 80 would be a better fit at this point for my needs and budget.... but it's too late, I'm totally taken by the 100 and may one day far down the road SAS it.

 

[AimCOtaco]

Lots of hurdles to long travel IFS on the 100 as well.

On the Tacoma you pick up 3" track width and run Tundra CV's... don't think there is a longer CV in the parts bin with splines, etc to match the UZJ so that is a huge expensive hurdle. Also, there is not long travel IFS without more track width and most UZJ trail users don't want more width, not true for desert racers however.

The Tacomas are coilover v. the UZJ that is a t-bar; I think Coilovers would be needed to take full advantage of a LT system. Simply changing the rate means new T-bars and not too many are available and they are $$$ where coils are cheap and universal so easily tuned. Not a trivial conversion to put towers on the 100.

LT systems are usually used for high speed low weight applications which is not really the UZJ forte.

Damn, I guess I just again conviced myself that there is "No Free Lunch"!

 

[Taylor O]

Not sure $5k in parts are going to get you there. Also, we looked at Dana 60's and such and could not get it to work properly with steering etc etc. You also have the issue of dealing with a 5 lug rear and a whatever lug front. Part of the cost is to modify the rear to match the front in terms of lift height, gear ratio etc.

Paul's with the True-Hi9 was the best solution we found. But at approx $3k for the diff alone, the $5k budget disappears in a hurry.

If yo droppped a 14 bolt in the rear you wouldn't have trouble matching the dana 60 up front. But I am not one to argue with a proven expert. I'll take your word for it

 

[bluecruiser]

Lots of hurdles to long travel IFS on the 100 as well.

On the Tacoma you pick up 3" track width and run Tundra CV's... don't think there is a longer CV in the parts bin with splines, etc to match the UZJ so that is a huge expensive hurdle. Also, there is not long travel IFS without more track width and most UZJ trail users don't want more width, not true for desert racers however.

The Tacomas are coilover v. the UZJ that is a t-bar; I think Coilovers would be needed to take full advantage of a LT system. Simply changing the rate means new T-bars and not too many are available and they are $$$ where coils are cheap and universal so easily tuned. Not a trivial conversion to put towers on the 100.

LT systems are usually used for high speed low weight applications which is not really the UZJ forte.

Damn, I guess I just again conviced myself that there is "No Free Lunch"!

Definitely ditch the torsion bars...the custom CV's will be quite spendy. I think it's doable without getting too wide. I will have to have some experts look at it. I'm sure Spresso has looked into it. He may have some insight...

 

[AimCOtaco]

Yeah, just don't ask Spresso about RCV CV shafts, it's a sore subject... (I think it was Spress/RCV anyway)

Also, thinking of the extreme wheel offset (60mm) I wonder If you could utilize a lower offset wheel set when going LT and run spacers on the back. This could allow for longer arms without as much track width gained? Or am I ass backward?
Bluecruiser, having seen pics of your cruiser with max rear travel and the cool pre-runner bumper you should be the guinea pig.... you look like the fast desert type.

 

[Mxndrnks]

Bluecruiser, having seen pics of your cruiser with max rear travel and the cool pre-runner bumper you should be the guinea pig.... you look like the fast desert type.

He tries.... But with those 35's and not having re-geared.... He is slower than molasses.... LOL!

Here is another thread with some discusions about LT systems on our rigs.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/520268-diff-drop-questions.html

 

[AimCOtaco]

I just read the other thread... it's closed for some reason. I guess so we can stay focused on boring new threads about basic maintenenace tasks that have been discussed to death.

I had never considered moving the lower mounts in, I would expect to have to do the same for the uppers to keep the geometry working (gets harder with more travel).
Yesterday I was pondering an articulating mount for the front diff, you know, let the diff drop when the wheels drop and then linkage it back up to normal on compression... I think I know why they closed the other thread, it was to keep my stupid ideas out of the ether... oh well, carry on.

 

[bamabrock]

Not sure $5k in parts are going to get you there. Also, we looked at Dana 60's and such and could not get it to work properly with steering etc etc. You also have the issue of dealing with a 5 lug rear and a whatever lug front. Part of the cost is to modify the rear to match the front in terms of lift height, gear ratio etc.

Paul's with the True-Hi9 was the best solution we found. But at approx $3k for the diff alone, the $5k budget disappears in a hurry.

You couldn't convert to hydro steering using the factory pump or replacing it with an aftermarket pump? Also, why keep the factory rear at all? Wouldn't it make sense to use a matched set of GM dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear from a GM M1009 that is readily available for $1,200 to $1,500. They are usually from low mileage trucks and already have 4.56 gears and a full case detroit locker in rear. Shave the rear, swap on disc breaks in the rear and freshen up the front. Ive run them underneath jeeps for years in leaf sprung or 3 link front configurations. I think the real question that I don't know is how the toyota computer reacts without the stock sensors in place for atrac etc.

 

[elkaholic]

You couldn't convert to hydro steering using the factory pump or replacing it with an aftermarket pump?

Yeah, you could do that if you wanted a trail only truck. Full hydro steering is not street legal in most U.S. states ....

 

[petrotk40]

He tries.... But with those 35's and not having re-geared.... He is slower than molasses.... LOL!

Here is another thread with some discusions about LT systems on our rigs.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/520268-diff-drop-questions.html

the best way to do long travel would be to move the LCA mounting points in toward the center of the vehicle. This means the front diff would need to be centered... not sure if possible. Would need new axles and a total front end mounting point redesign. I'm not sure how the UCA geometry would work, if those mounting points would need to be changed as well. While you're at it, you'd probably want to ditch the torsion bars for coilovers.

 

[bluecruiser]

He tries.... But with those 35's and not having re-geared.... He is slower than molasses.... LOL!

Here is another thread with some discusions about LT systems on our rigs.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/520268-diff-drop-questions.html

I am pretty slow.....saves gas....haha

 

[bamabrock]

Yeah, you could do that if you wanted a trail only truck. Full hydro steering is not street legal in most U.S. states ....

Do you know the real difference in a full hydro system and the stock system? I doubt swapping a SFA is exactly "street legal" whatever that means. That isn't what the thread is about.

 

[bluecruiser]

Yeah, just don't ask Spresso about RCV CV shafts, it's a sore subject... (I think it was Spress/RCV anyway)

Also, thinking of the extreme wheel offset (60mm) I wonder If you could utilize a lower offset wheel set when going LT and run spacers on the back. This could allow for longer arms without as much track width gained? Or am I ass backward?
Bluecruiser, having seen pics of your cruiser with max rear travel and the cool pre-runner bumper you should be the guinea pig.... you look like the fast desert type.

I was thinking the same thing about the offset of the wheels....I will talk to a friend of mine that just finished this. Hybrid 4x4/long travel Toyota pickup. All arms built by hand. Pretty cool rig.

 

[petrotk40]

Also, thinking of the extreme wheel offset (60mm) I wonder If you could utilize a lower offset wheel set when going LT and run spacers on the back. This could allow for longer arms without as much track width gained? Or am I ass backward?

I think you are backwards on this, the huge positive offset allows the axles to be as long as possible. Positive offset sinks the wheels inward