Diff drop questions

[Mxndrnks]

After laying under my truck most of the day doing other things, I started looking at the Slee diff drop I have and started thinking. So... I thought it best to post here and see what some of you with more experience think.

The problem we have with lifting the front of our rigs at this point and time seem to be related to the limitation of the CV's.

Slee built the diff drop to lower the diff by 3/4" to get the CV's back to a more stock alignment.

With the installation of one of the new front UCA's (Carl's, TC) and a shock like the Radflo, we can squeeze a little more travel. But again we are limited by the CV angles.

What would it realistically take to drop the CV another 3/4 - 1"? I know a new diff drop would be needed and a spacer. Do the front LCA's also need to be dropped? Would a better designed and stronger LCA using the factory mounting be better? I.e. Total Chaos makes long travel LCA's for other vehicles.

The purpose of this is for an intellectual conversation. Not to turn into one of those L-shock debates. How do we achieve a true 3-3.5" lift with out one of those crazy JDM lifts with the wood block spacers....

Cheers.

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

You could go 2"diff drop, but your steering arms become the next limit.

Ideally, someone needs to make cast spindles to turn the steering arm TRE around 180 deg, and lift it from the spindle the 25mm or so available to the ball joint, to go with the 1"diff drop and 3"lift.

 

[spressomon]

Also unless you're going to do without the front anti-sway bar you have interference between the driveshaft and the ASB unless you go big as Darren states.

More moderate preservation of the CV and steering angles is precisely why I wanted to try a 1" body lift...so far so better.

 

[Mxndrnks]

You could go 2"diff drop, but your steering arms become the next limit.

Ideally, someone needs to make cast spindles to turn the steering arm TRE around 180 deg, and lift it from the spindle the 25mm or so available to the ball joint, to go with the 1"diff drop and 3"lift.

Yeah, I was looking at the steering connection. What about a CNC machined replacement cast Iron steering knuckle
that maintains precise steering and suspension geometry. Seems like one could input the stock geometry and just extend the sterring connection so it doesnt droop as well.

Also unless you're going to do without the front anti-sway bar you have interference between the driveshaft and the ASB unless you go big as Darren states.

More moderate preservation of the CV and steering angles is precisely why I wanted to try a 1" body lift...so far so better.

My front asb is off right now, so I totally missed that clearance issue. Time to spend more time under there looking....

Thanks guys!

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

Perhaps a group buy to get a prod run made may make it easier to get whats required?

TC and others make spindles for other models to suit lift.

 

[Mxndrnks]

Perhaps a group buy to get a prod run made may make it easier to get whats required?

TC and others make spindles for other models to suit lift.

That is an interesting idea. Forgive me if I am wrong though, in order to use a spindle lift with a 4wd vehicle, along with lowering the diff, you would also need to lower the LCA mount in order to keep optimum CV angles right?

Something like this?

 

[spressomon]

IFS portals.

 

[Mxndrnks]

IFS portals.

I am not familiar with them for the IFS. Or is it a dream item???

I know I am dreaming..... But, I do enjoy dreaming! I also realize this comes up every year or two. But with all the vendors we have now pushing the market and products....It just doesnt seem that far off to get a long travel system at this point in time. We have the UCA's, we have, the upgraded shocks now... It seems we could take what we have and what has been done for years with the Tundra to get there.... You know like this (minus the coilover):

I mean if you look at the equivalent long travel system for the Tundra:

Total Chaos Long Travel Suspension System for 00-06 Toyota Tundra

I already have the TC UCA's & Radflo's

If you re-index the T-bars to get more lift, then all that would be needed for a long travel system is:

• Lower A-Arms
• Tie-Rod extensions
• Extended Brake lines (already available)
• Limit straps?
• Extended Axles to retain 4wd or a diff drop that retains a more stock alignment (1 1/2 - 2" drop vs. 3/4" currently available)

It seems this would give us the lift and travel we want with out all the added spacers and brackets that a standard "lift kit" would have.

 

[spressomon]

Almost dreaming

 

[Mxndrnks]

Ahhh! LOL!

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

dropping the diff enough to suit the cv coming in lower would fix both those things in one go

 

[Layonnn]

Drop bracket lifts are not the way to go for IFS, Long travel is.
Are you planning to run 36-37s? If not, why do you want to lift it higher than needed to run 35s?

 

[Mxndrnks]

Drop bracket lifts are not the way to go for IFS, Long travel is.
Are you planning to run 36-37s? If not, why do you want to lift it higher than needed to run 35s?

You wont be able to run 36-37's with a 3-3.5" lift. The longer travel on the front end is the bigger goal with the bonus of another 1/2-1" of lift.

 

[jgray]

When I originally purchased my 100 I had planned to run a 37" tire... Then I started doing my homework and realized how hard it was to even properly run 35's. That said I've been looking at SAS options again recently as I'd still love to be able to accommodate a 37-39" tire at some point. My 100 is getting up there in mileage now but I think I'm just going to keep it and turn it into something a little more hardcore. I would be interested in a long travel setup or a IFS Portal setup if it were possible... I held off on some mods to my 100 early on because of limited options on the market. There are a lot more items in the aftermarket now then 5 years ago but it's far from many other vehicles out there. Hopefully we will continue to see more products as the 100's become more affordable for people to modify.

 

[Mxndrnks]

Hopefully we will continue to see more products as the 100's become more affordable for people to modify.

I think it is a guaranty we will see more and more. Look at the number of modified rigs on here now compared to 6 years ago. I mean... look at the shear advance that have been made just in the past 3 years compared to almost 10 yrs of OME only modifications....

 

[TheFuzz]

I think it is a guaranty we will see more and more. Look at the number of modified rigs on here now compared to 6 years ago. I mean... look at the shear advance that have been made just in the past 3 years compared to almost 10 yrs of OME only modifications....

I agree, there are lots of problem areas that have seen major R&D. Now if we could get some cam companies to start turning out billet cam blanks for the 2UZ-FE to get the cost down...

 

[snapaxle]

Drop bracket lifts are not the way to go for IFS, Long travel is.
Are you planning to run 36-37s? If not, why do you want to lift it higher than needed to run 35s?

Only issue with long travel is the increased width up front. It will require a lot of cutting at best, and new fenders at worst. Those could be reversed depending on your viewpoint. The med travel kit on my Titan increased the track width over 7".
Might be silly looking, but man I would love to have it, ha.

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

We have looked at new mounts for the arms, easier on a I6 TD, than the V8, but by moving the mounts inward, saves widening the track.

We have even spoken with supplier about fibreglass fenders to fit the 35's with wheel spacers, and be flared slightly but lok standard.

Even J arms on the front, to make more room was in our measurments at one point.

Would require a sub frame assembly, but all possible.

Torque steer becomes an issue as more power, and bigger tyres go on the 100, with IFS, bushes help, but there is a toipping point where height means it lifts and tries to climb over the front wheels as they toe in, because of the leverage over the centre line, and with plenty of power, they spin the front tyres and try and chnage lanes at the same time.

 

[ghong14]

A technical question. When people mention a 2 inch lift, how is that measured? I have a LX470 98' which is a LC 100. Looking to get a AHC swap. Wondering if I should do a diff drop. My kit is < 2 inches