More pics
Solid Axle Swap options and opinions and help? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter IanwantsaFJ80
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Oh it’s daily driven .....
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
How many replies in a row do you need?
My son calls them “shorty” and he is 11.
- Where should I start?
Start by identifying your end goals/desires. What do you want to end up with? How high/low do you want to end up? What size tire? Building low is much harder than tall, and will potentially require some different choices in parts.
- What are my options for matching lug patterns while keeping the rear axle? How can I convert the 5 lug to match the front or vice versa?
There is no readily available axle that will match your rear lug pattern. You can probably do spacer/adapters at one end or the other, but that messes with other things. (like scrub radius if you put them on the front...) If you choose an 80 front axle, it's probably best to swap the rear 80 axle in as well--that way your axle widths match as well as lug pattern.
- Why did you choose your set up?
Fitment in the chassis, matching lug patterns, matching axle widths, retaining ABS/ATRAC, low ride height, added strength and bigger brakes compared to original 100 parts or an 80 axle, ease of maintenance.
- Calculating link geometry? What bracketry did you use? Did you fab them, buy them? Pro's and con's to 4 link vs 3 link?
I built radius arms. As such, there isn't much link geometry to calculate. Fabbed all brackets. It fit easier under the truck than a 3 or 4 link would have. 3 link will offer less restriction to articulation, which also translates to more body roll on road. I don't intend on doing anything with this vehicle that the radius arms will hinder its performance. (again, the "right" choice depends on your end goals)
- What kind gauge did you use for frames/spring buckets/ etc?
I plate the frame with 1/8", coil and shock mounts are 3/16", suspension brackets 1/4".
- Suspension set up? Why coils vs coil overs vs leafs?
I chose coil and shock for zero maintenance and zero noise compared to coilovers. Same reason I'm using rubber bushings at all points in the suspension rather than any type of spherical joint. Leaf spring were never an option for me.Coilovers would have fit much more easily, the width of the frame is a hindrance.
- What did you use to weld all the stuff up? MIG vs TIG?
MIG.
- custom drive shafts?
No, the factory shafts ended up fitting well enough, surprisingly.
- Am I crazy for trying to get this done?
Not in my mind. It's your money and your decision in the end.
Since it's been mentioned a few times already, I'll just answer these questions the best I can, and ignore the economics of doing a swap like this.
If you want a SAS 100, then build a 100 the way you want it! Mine makes me happy every time I drive it, and my wife drives it every day as her primary vehicle. (therefore road manners were a priority)I will say though, I really hope this is not your primary vehicle while the work is being done.
My responses are in red above.
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
Since it's been mentioned a few times already, I'll just answer these questions the best I can, and ignore the economics of doing a swap like this.
I will say though, I really hope this is not your primary vehicle while the work is being done.
My responses are in red above.
Carl's build is impressive. You have some seriously impressive fab skills
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
I still havent seen many SASd 100s actually wheeling anything necessitating a SAS. In that sense it kinda echoes the brodozer movement a bit. I will welcome my first mangled up door
- Thread starter
- #30
Since it's been mentioned a few times already, I'll just answer these questions the best I can, and ignore the economics of doing a swap like this.
I will say though, I really hope this is not your primary vehicle while the work is being done.
My responses are in red above.
Thanks for the encouraging words.
This is my daily driver but I do have a POS BMW X5 that I am daily driving at the moment while I figure this out. I think I'm going to just fix this thing back to IFS. I just couldn't justify paying 4k in new parts to go back to IFS. Now I am just waiting to see if I can get a good deal on old parts. I will eventually SAS the LX when I have the time and $$. For now, I'm just going to get it running and install goodies like F/R lockers, re-gear, UCA's and 35's. Maybe do a body lift.
I do have a 2nd gen 4runner that I bought for 700 bucks that had a blown head gasket. Fixed that up and it runs ok. I may practice doing a SAS on that and see how it turns out. If I can figure that out, I will for sure do it to the LX. I just couldn't justify paying all that money for new parts to fix the LX.
- Thread starter
- #31
I took it to one shop. 1 mechanic friend (free). My neighbor (mechanic). I am a busy guy during the week so my time is valuable to me. I had pretty much chalked it up as diff/CV when it happened. Just wanted to confirm with professionals and found more wrong than I knew. I wanted to try this because why not?
I will be fixing/upgrading the front and rear diff (since re-gearing) to get it running again because it is my DD.
I do have a project 4runner that I will SAS just for practice. It's a much easier swap than the 100.
There's this one pothole in the way of dropping the carpool kids off at school, that you wouldn't believe! No way IFS would survive.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Try driving in san jose. Some real widowmakers out hereThere's this one pothole in the way of dropping the carpool kids off at school, that you wouldn't believe! No way IFS would survive.
Exactly.
