Solar Wire Pass-Thru -Scanstrut Cable Gland

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mingles

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Nov 29, 2014
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Location
Titusville, New Jersey
Finally got rid of my temporary solar wire setup and used a Scanstrut cable gland to get the wire into the truck.

DS-H10-BLK Horizontal Cable Seal Power Boat - https://www.scanstrut.com/marine/power-boat/cable-seal/horizontal/ds-h10-blk

All the penetrations are through the RR window vent. If I ever decide to remove it, I can put a new vent cover on and there is no visible evidence that it was ever there. I wanted something that can hold up to an automatic car wash and I think this will do it (I’ve run my rack mounted solar panel through the car wash weekly for several years with no issues).

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@mingles you think there is a model that can handle a solar wire and some additional wires for accessories and still maintain water intrusion integrity? Looks clean and very close to what i was looking for.
 
@mingles you think there is a model that can handle a solar wire and some additional wires for accessories and still maintain water intrusion integrity? Looks clean and very close to what i was looking for.

They have a range of products on their site. The model I have came with a half dozen or so rubber bushings of assorted sizes so you could match the one that best fit your wire size.

The last bushing was a blank rubber plug that could be drilled to fit your own custom wire set. I doubt you could fit more than 4 12 AWG wires through the hole though. On useful tip in the instructions (it seems intuitive, but I wouldn’t have thought of it) was to freeze the rubber bushing before drilling it 👍. If you ever tried to drill a soft rubber bushing, this makes perfect sense.

If you need a larger size, I would suggest going through their site.
 
Wow! Super clean install, looks almost factory. Just needs a Toyota p/n on it. Excellent work!
 
I've been using the normal arrangement of Gland Nuts for years. This is so much cleaner.
Thanks for sharing.
 
I've been using the normal arrangement of Gland Nuts for years. This is so much cleaner.
Thanks for sharing.
Same here. Been using a regular Heyco gland for years.

These seem to be common in the marine world as thru-deck fittings and seem to be pretty robust. We'll see how it holds up but if it can withstand a salt environment, I think it'll be fine.
 
Someone mentioned Scanstrut on here a while back so I ordered one to see how it would work. I was able to get three 16AWG wires in the one I bought which should work for solar or some low power lights. I haven't installed mine yet so no report on how it really works.

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Same here. Been using a regular Heyco gland for years.

These seem to be common in the marine world as thru-deck fittings and seem to be pretty robust. We'll see how it holds up but if it can withstand a salt environment, I think it'll be fine.
Agree completely, I've been looking more and more at marine grade electrical fittings for mods. Its similar to aircraft parts, when you're rolling on solid ground and things go Pear Shaped, its kind of a Me'h moment and you get pissed and get over it. When things go Pear Shaped at 10,000 feet or 3 days off shore, its a lot more exciting, so the equipment is built to a higher standard.
 
Planning to get an LED light bar attached to a Front Runner rack and thought I'd check in to see how the Scanstrut's have performed to date.

Any feedback @NLXTACY @TomH and @mingles? TIA
 
Planning to get an LED light bar attached to a Front Runner rack and thought I'd check in to see how the Scanstrut's have performed to date.

Any feedback @NLXTACY @TomH and @mingles? TIA

My installation is holding up great. It has gone through a high pressure car wash at least once a week for the last 6 months. No leaks yet 👍.
 
Hey, thanks for the feedback @NLXTACY and @TomH (garage?).

I purchased the DS-MULTI and look forward to the install.
 
Bringing this thread back to life.

I am looking at options for the installation of my CB/coax cable. I am leaning towards the vertical scanstrut as I do not have to remove the connector on the end of the coax to work. Does anyone know if the horizontal is the same way, meaning I do not have to remove my connector on the end of the coax to feed through the scanstrut.
 
Bringing this thread back to life.

I am looking at options for the installation of my CB/coax cable. I am leaning towards the vertical scanstrut as I do not have to remove the connector on the end of the coax to work. Does anyone know if the horizontal is the same way, meaning I do not have to remove my connector on the end of the coax to feed through the scanstrut.
To be honest, I couldn’t remember if the rubber bungs came split, making them able to slip onto a cable without having to remove the connector. I found the video linked below however, that clearly shows the bungs are pre-cut. HTH.

 
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To be honest, I couldn’t remember if the rubber bungs came split, making then able to slip onto a cable without having to remove the connector. I found the video linked below however, that clearly shows the bungs are pre-cut. HTH.



My problem is it going to seal with the larger hole for the end of the coax cable for the CB?
 
I've a question - about to do this for my HAM antenna cable - how did you "Layer" the parts?

I seem to get some moisture down the back of that L part occasionally - the air vent below is well sealed - but I'm curious of how it all got sandwiched in - is the gasket against the metal or the plastic L surface?

[Edit] I grabbed some 1mm 3M backed gasket material I'll cut to size to seal against the metal just in case.
 
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