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Howdy! The Cut-N-Turn really comes into play if you want steering manners at speed AND run in 4wd, like going up in the high country to go skiing. Shims can get the steering geometry pretty good, but the DS angles will not let the front ujoints turn very fast. John
Howdy! The more lift on a rig, the more angle on the ujoints. Compressing the suspension reduces the angle, but extending it increases the angle. Ujoints tend to fail at the most inconvenient moment, when pushed past the maximum angle they are designed for. One way to reduce the angle is by using a double ujoint (Constant Velocity Joint) at the transfer case end of the shaft, and then using a single ujoint at the pinion flange. The diff must be rotated upward so that the single ujoint operates at nearly no angle at all. This requires repositioning the spring mounts on the axle housing, and then cutting the knuckles off the ends of the axle and welding them back on so that the steering geometry ends up around 3 or 4 degrees of caster for good on road handling. There are a lot of other variables, and assorted opinions on how much lift and angle, but it is ONE generally accepted solution. I have been running this setup for about 20 years. John
Howdy! Cut N Turn is not perfect, by any means, but it was the best method available at the time for my applications (dreams and desires). Parts availability, mechanical skills, and BUDGET have a big part in the plans. Start with the minimum requirements. If it is a daily driver, creature comfort and practicality count. Next comes driving manners, which may or may not include high speed 2 x 4, and/or 4 x 4 running. If your a meat hunter, then how far up in the Snowy Range will it have to take you for elk and Brookies? Need to haul the wife and kids, how about a week's worth of camping gear? Are you likely to spend hours and hours driving on Forest Service roads full of washboard? With the right setup, you can drive French Creek Rd just like Happy Jack Rd. FAST!!! Are you more likely to be in boulders and bedrock, or muddy beaver swamps and fallen timber? A 2 - 4 inch lift and some 31 - 33" tires will go a long way for much of this. In 1976 I started with a bone stock 72 FJ40. I felt pretty macho when I went to 2" lift and 11.50 x 31's, L78 series Armstrong Norsman. When the transmission died, I went to a 350, SM 465, and Q78 (35's) with a 4" recurve. Worked great; no lockers, no sliders, no winch. In 1984 I moved to Phoenix and started going to Open Desert Races. WOW!! They go fast. With 3 kids and a big dog, I decided to get a wagon. Within 3 months, I went SOA. The good old boys at Fly-N-Hi thought I was off my bloody rocker! They had done a lot of FJ40's, but nobody does that to a wagon!! TaDa! Here I am over 20 years later. I would recommend that once you decide on a final goal, then try to stairstep it so you can do a little at a time and keep it on the road as your DD. There is a great wealth of knowledge right here on IH8MUD to guide you. Keep reading everything you can, even on the 60's, 80's, diesels, trailers, whatever. Pigs are Phantastic!! Do what works best for YOU! John
Howdy! Just a lucky guess? My hunting partner used to live on the north side, about 1/2 mile west of I_25. Used to be some older ranchette type homes on a little parcel of dead land that looked like it should of belonged to Warren AFB. I lived off of Tank Farm Rd, just north of College Drive from 75 to 84.
Howdy! Where's the pix? What a tease! Sounds pretty neat. That would be a good way to keep the overall profile a lot lower. It might even fit in a standard 7' garage door. Did he use the 60 springs on both ends? How much did he have to move the spring hangers? Clearing 35's is one thing, but stuffing them is a whole different subject. With 5" extended bump stops, I can just about kiss the inside of my front fenders, but not quite. If I didn't run the sway bar on the rear, I think they would rub back there, I've just been too lazy to find out. Check it out. It's hard to see, but the left rear is hanging free. John
