Tigerstripe40
SILVER Star
I know its been done to death.
I've searched.
I am considering doing a SOA on my FJ40 and I am looking at a number of different options.
First, here is how my truck is currently setup.
1976 FJ40.
Drivetrain:
2F that was rebuilt about 11 years ago, probably has about 80k on it. Runs strong.
NOS SM420 from a Gamma Goat with maybe 20k on it.
Mike Smythe plate adapter.
Stock '4 speed' t-case though it has a conversion gear to be able to adapt it to the SM420. So far as I know the t-case has never been rebuilt.
Front axle:
FJ40 front end with FJ60 knuckes and v6 4Runner calipers. All new OEM hardware.
Completely rebuilts about 2 years ago.
30 spline longfields.
4.88's w/ ARB air locker. New diff/pinion bearings at this time
A bunch of spares (4 birf's, 2 sets of stock inners)
Rear axle:
Stock FJ40 rear housing w/ stock S/F axles.
4.88 R+P w/ stock carrier and a lock right.
Monte Carlo rear disc brake conversion.
1 set of stock rear axle shafts w/ c-clips.
The rear axle was also rebuilt with new rear axle bearing and seals about 2 years ago.
Suspension:
OME Dakar springs. The front springs are about 4 years old, the rears about 3 years old. Front shackles are OME anti-inversion greasable rear shackles. the rear shackles are 2.5" over stock Man-A-Fre anti inversion shackles that have been modified (the anti-inversion cross bar was removed to allow the shackles to flex properly. Total lift is about 4-5" total to fit 35" tires.
Steering:
Saginaw Power Steering conversion.
Drag link uses a 1-ton Chevy TRE on the pitman arm end (pitman arm is a SUPER beefy unit out of a Ford E-450) and a stock 76 FJ40 TRE on the other. OD of the drag link is 1-3/8". Tie rod is a BudBuilt 1.5" 3/8" wall tie rod with stock FJ40 TRE's. I've been able to pick the front end of the truck up with a fork-lift and the Tie Rod won't deflect.......
Master cylinder was swapped out for a new FJ80 large bore MC w/ Summit racing prop valve.
As it stands now, I consider the truck for the most part bullet-proof. I've run some pretty tough trails, but have not been very aggressive with the truck as I need to drive it home. I would like to do a spring over for ride quality, articulation, and added capability, but I have a number of different options.
I have a set of FJ60 axles, both front and rear with most of the parts complete or good cores. I know the axles are 3" wider than stock on the long side, so at least in the front, outboarding of the springs would be necessary.
On the rear, I would like to have the better parking brake that the FJ60 rear axle provies, as the t-case mounted parking brake has been marginal if not lacking for the last few years. I've put new brake shoes in it. I have a kit from spector to rebuilt the parking brake using all new parts, however, I wonder if the 35s with 4.88's might be too much for the t-case drum brake to be able to hold even with new parts. My feeling is that converting to the FJ60 rear end with drum brakes and the parking brake might be more beneficial than the RDB's I currently have.
Springs:
I've seen many threads about the stock FJ40 springs being the best for a spring over. However, these springs are aged, and there don't seem to be many available now. While at this time, I don't think that OEM spring availability is going to be a problem, my concern is that 10 years down the road, OEM springs won't be available at all... CCOT doesn't seem to offer a no-lift spring for FJ-40's any longer.....
My conclusion is to build the SOA with OME Dakar springs, using the front FJ40 housing with spacers, and the rear FJ60 housing for the e-brake setup.
While I am at it, I am thinking about the t-case....
Since I have the SM420, I don't need a 4:1 Orion, however, the cast iron case is appealing. I've long considered the ToyBox with a split case. I think this would give the truck the best combination of gearing.
Which is stronger, the Cast Iron Orion, or the split case. Drive shaft mod's aren't a concern since I have to mod the driveshafts in any case doing a spring over.
Sorry to babble a bit. These are things I've been considering.
I've searched.
I am considering doing a SOA on my FJ40 and I am looking at a number of different options.
First, here is how my truck is currently setup.
1976 FJ40.
Drivetrain:
2F that was rebuilt about 11 years ago, probably has about 80k on it. Runs strong.
NOS SM420 from a Gamma Goat with maybe 20k on it.
Mike Smythe plate adapter.
Stock '4 speed' t-case though it has a conversion gear to be able to adapt it to the SM420. So far as I know the t-case has never been rebuilt.
Front axle:
FJ40 front end with FJ60 knuckes and v6 4Runner calipers. All new OEM hardware.
Completely rebuilts about 2 years ago.
30 spline longfields.
4.88's w/ ARB air locker. New diff/pinion bearings at this time
A bunch of spares (4 birf's, 2 sets of stock inners)
Rear axle:
Stock FJ40 rear housing w/ stock S/F axles.
4.88 R+P w/ stock carrier and a lock right.
Monte Carlo rear disc brake conversion.
1 set of stock rear axle shafts w/ c-clips.
The rear axle was also rebuilt with new rear axle bearing and seals about 2 years ago.
Suspension:
OME Dakar springs. The front springs are about 4 years old, the rears about 3 years old. Front shackles are OME anti-inversion greasable rear shackles. the rear shackles are 2.5" over stock Man-A-Fre anti inversion shackles that have been modified (the anti-inversion cross bar was removed to allow the shackles to flex properly. Total lift is about 4-5" total to fit 35" tires.
Steering:
Saginaw Power Steering conversion.
Drag link uses a 1-ton Chevy TRE on the pitman arm end (pitman arm is a SUPER beefy unit out of a Ford E-450) and a stock 76 FJ40 TRE on the other. OD of the drag link is 1-3/8". Tie rod is a BudBuilt 1.5" 3/8" wall tie rod with stock FJ40 TRE's. I've been able to pick the front end of the truck up with a fork-lift and the Tie Rod won't deflect.......
Master cylinder was swapped out for a new FJ80 large bore MC w/ Summit racing prop valve.
As it stands now, I consider the truck for the most part bullet-proof. I've run some pretty tough trails, but have not been very aggressive with the truck as I need to drive it home. I would like to do a spring over for ride quality, articulation, and added capability, but I have a number of different options.
I have a set of FJ60 axles, both front and rear with most of the parts complete or good cores. I know the axles are 3" wider than stock on the long side, so at least in the front, outboarding of the springs would be necessary.
On the rear, I would like to have the better parking brake that the FJ60 rear axle provies, as the t-case mounted parking brake has been marginal if not lacking for the last few years. I've put new brake shoes in it. I have a kit from spector to rebuilt the parking brake using all new parts, however, I wonder if the 35s with 4.88's might be too much for the t-case drum brake to be able to hold even with new parts. My feeling is that converting to the FJ60 rear end with drum brakes and the parking brake might be more beneficial than the RDB's I currently have.
Springs:
I've seen many threads about the stock FJ40 springs being the best for a spring over. However, these springs are aged, and there don't seem to be many available now. While at this time, I don't think that OEM spring availability is going to be a problem, my concern is that 10 years down the road, OEM springs won't be available at all... CCOT doesn't seem to offer a no-lift spring for FJ-40's any longer.....
My conclusion is to build the SOA with OME Dakar springs, using the front FJ40 housing with spacers, and the rear FJ60 housing for the e-brake setup.
While I am at it, I am thinking about the t-case....
Since I have the SM420, I don't need a 4:1 Orion, however, the cast iron case is appealing. I've long considered the ToyBox with a split case. I think this would give the truck the best combination of gearing.
Which is stronger, the Cast Iron Orion, or the split case. Drive shaft mod's aren't a concern since I have to mod the driveshafts in any case doing a spring over.
Sorry to babble a bit. These are things I've been considering.